Twynau Gwynion Quarries

GR065105 By Goi Ashmore

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

PREAMBLE

Twynau Gwynion quarries lie on the hillside above Taf Fechan Quarry and provide some magnificent views of the Brecon Beacons. The routes were probably climbed by the same teams active at Taf Fechan in the 1960s. For many years it has been the secret location for many outdoor centres who wanted to avoid the crowded and polished crags of Morlais. It is an ideal crag for the middle grade climber who wants some seclusion and is not tempted by the delights of Taf Fechan

ACCESS

By car, turn off the A465 Heads of The Valley’s Road at Dowlais roundabout (Asda superstore). Miss the superstore’s entrance and turn left, left again and then right and park. Follow the road/track through the buildings and horse boxes and turn right to follow a pot holed track for 10 minutes to reach some boulders. Continue into the quarry. It is also possible to scramble up directly from Taf Fechan, which is probably quicker.

DESCENTS

It is relatively easy to walk down either side of the quarry.

THE ROUTES

Bay One

The smallest bay, glimpsed through the spoil heaps on the right of the track when coming from Asda superstore. It is an 11m high wall of rough white rock and 30m in length.

1. White Groove HS,4b
   The front of the clean buttress on the south end of the wall. Move left to finish.11m.Unknown Pre-1991
   
   
2. Spare Rib 11m HS,4b
   The arete forming the right angle.11m. Unknown Pre-1991
   
   

Bay Two

150m north of Bay One is Bay Two forming a right angle and facing northwest. An obvious feature is the arete of Corrugation. The routes are described from right to left.

1. Short Crack - 9m HS,4b
   The first crack.
   
   
2. Black Crack - 9m VS,4b
   The crack immediately right of a rounded groove, with an overhang at 6m, finish up the groove.
   
   
3. Flowstone - 9m HVS,5a
   Start 1m left of two trees low down. Climb the flowstone wall direct to the top. Next are two cracks.
   
4. Two Half Quids - 9m VS,4c
   The right-hand crack.
   
   
5. Two Fingers - 9m VS,4c
   The left-hand crack.
   
   
6. Cystitis Eat Your Heart Out - 9m VS,4c
   Start 3m right of a left-hand corner with a tree low down below a curving crack. Follow it to the main horizontal break, step left then follow a crack left of a small roof.
   
   
7. Suns Going Down - 9m VS,4c
   Start just right of the left-hand corner and follow a crack to the top.
   
   
8. Corrugation - 11m E1,5b *
   The wrinkled arete of the great block climbed on its right up the shallow groove.
   
   
9. Frontal Wall - 11m S,4a *
   The front wall of the block has two cracks high up. Climb either one, the right-hand one being harder.
   
   
10. Hawthorn Chimney - 6m D
    The obvious chimney above a tree.
    
    

Bay Three

45m north and at a lower level than Bay Two is Bay Three. It has a single north facing wall, its right-hand end is two tiered and its left-hand section contains some fine crack lines. The lower wall of the double tier contains a number of problems 5m high.

1. Staircase - 5m 2a
   
   
2. Painful Crack - 5m 4a
   
   
3. Short Cleft - 5m 4a
   
   
4. Wide Crack - 5m 3a
   
   
5. Grooves - 5m 2a
   
   
6. Finger Line - 5m 5b
   
   
7. Thin Crack - 5m 5a
   
   
8. The Reach - 5m 5a
   
   The first real route is:
   
   
9. Pete’s Finish - 12m E1,5b
   Just left of where the tiers merge. Follow a crack which is obvious high up past a number of horizontal breaks.
   
   
10. Nut Wall - 12m VS,4c
    Follow the obvious line diagonally left to a ledge with trees. Climb the crack for 3m then move 2m left to a thin crack, which leads to a ledge.
    
    
11. Nut Wall Direct - 12m E1,5c
    Thin moves gain a ledge and tree at 3m, carry on up a crack to a large grassy ledge. Move left to Finish.
    
    
12. Unnamed - 12m E1,5b(Fr 6a)
    Climb thin discontinuous cracks in the slabby wall.
    
    
13. Friends In Need - 12m HVS,5a
    Start 4m left. Difficult moves gain a crack line at 6m.
    
    
14. Little Owl - 12m VS,4c(Fr 4+)
    The distinct crack.
    
    
15. Pleasurance - 12m HS,4b(Fr 4)
    Climb the wide crack.
    
    

Bay Four

The largest of the bays. The following routes lie on its south-facing wall.

1. Balance - 9m VS,4c
   A crack on the left wall gives more trouble than anticipated.
   
   
2. The Block - 10m VS,4c
   To the right is a block, climb it.
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

Bay One

1. Unknown Pre-1991
2. Unknown Pre-1991

Bay Two

1. Unknown Pre-1973
2. Unknown Pre-1973
3. Unknown Pre-1973
4. Unknown Pre-1973
5. Unknown Pre-1973
6. Unknown Pre-1991
7. Unknown Pre-1973
8. Unknown Pre-1973
9. Unknown Pre-1973
10. Unknown Pre-1973

Bay Three

1. Unknown Pre-1973
2. Unknown Pre-1973
3. Unknown Pre-1973
4. Unknown Pre-1973
5. Unknown Pre-1973
6. Unknown Pre-1973
7. Unknown Pre-1973
8. Unknown Pre-1973
9. J.Harwood 17.05.1987
10. Unknown Pre-1973
11. G.Evans, K.Wood 00.00.1974
12. J.Harwood 17.05.1987
13. Unknown Pre-1991
14. J.Harwood 12.05.1987
15. J.Harwood 17.05.1973

Four

1. Unknown Pre-1991
2. Unknown Pre-1991