Talk:Watch House East

Hi

New route (to go after Straining Pitch)

'Touch and Go' 7a+/7b (not sure about this grade, please comment) Takes a line right of Straining pitch through all four overhangs. Fine varied climbing but with a hard crux. Start towards the right side of the first roof then trend delicately left to join Straining pitch for one move before breaking right and crossing the second overhang (crux). Continue directly to share the lower-off of Straining Pitch. FA Danny McCarroll and John Bullock, Oct 2010

Danny McCarroll

Lower off info could be updated, if anyone is in the know.--Alan rosier 19:27, 26 July 2009 (UTC)

New routes:

Too many fingers. 6C. Takes the diagonal line of pockets at the right side of the crag, starting from the big boulder. Swing right at the top to finish on the ledge. Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2008.

Nia Miss. 5+ Start on the ledge at the right side of the crag at a bolt belay. Step round the corner, and creep leftwards across the slab, with amazing exposure, to finish either up the steep arete (6a?) or continue round to bridge up the corner. John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2008.

The bolts in the very overhanging wall above the boulder are a project (lowest bolt still to be placed)

Danny/John. Where should I place the above routes and how does Too many fingers relate to the road to knowhere?--Chris Wyatt 20:53, 8 May 2010 (UTC)

Hi Chris. Too many fingers starts about 2m right of No rest for the wicked. The new bolts in 'the road to nowhere' are actually in a project that crosses the lower overhang then takes the overhanging wall right of Straining Pitch. It was Johns project, and he did it once on a top rope, but with an almighty leap for a sharp edge. He has sensibly given up! Actually he is just too tall and I can do it using a small foothold, so he has passed it to me. I will tick it off next time I go there. It will be about 7a I think.

Not sure where they should go, maybe John and I should prepare a nice new topo for WHE? I will suggest it when he gets back next week. Danny

Climbed strain drain today with John B and thought it was definately 7a . I suggested it was 7a and John says he doesnt know. Chris Ledden seems to agree on UKC so I've upgraded it. Quite happy if anyone objects and wants 6c+. If you dont know -give it a go its nice climbing! Chris