Little Tor

File:Little tor.jpg

Little Tor

Contents

Gower

The Three Tors

GR SS 52620 87762

TIDAL STATUS

4 hours either side of low water

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting

DESCENTS

Descend down either flank of the Tor. This pleasant crag consists of two buttresses rising from the beach. The western buttress is much the shorter, whilst its fellow leads to the top of the Little Tor headland.

THE ROUTES

1. Wall Climb II 7m HS,4c
   The ragged cracks left of the first proper crack encountered.
   
   
2. Central Crack 7m VD
   The first crack.
   
3. Wall Climb I 7m HVS,5b
   With blinkes and some pain, climb the wall between Central and Thin Crack.
   
   
4. Thin Crack 9m S,4b
   The narrow crack right of Central Crack.
   
   
5. Right Crack 9m VD
   The wider chimney/crack right again.
   
   The section of the crag to the right, is set back a little. It previously contained Left Slab VS (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) and Quartz S (J.Talbot, G.Jones 1959) which were demolished by a rock fall. Left White replaces these.
   

   Little Tor
   
   
   
6. Left White 12m HVS,5a
   Takes the smooth quartz coated slab, keeping 2½m left of the corner (Right Corner).
   
   The next routes are on the main crag, where the height starts to increase. The obvious proud pillar, Central Flake, is the most obvious feature.
   
   NB Anchors at the top of these routes are a little hard to come by and, given the low grade of the climbs here, are likely to be popular with beginners. You should make sure that you get good anchors. Do not trust the old and rusty pegs.
   
   
7. Right Corner 15m S
   The steep corner on the left side of the buttress.
   
   
8. Left Edge (Tri Cornel) 18m D
   Start at the left edge of the slab and follow cracks then tiny corners to ledges and the top.
   
   
9. Centre Route 18m VD
   Climb the narrow face between Left Edge and Left Flake Corner, stepping left to avoid the bulge at the top. The direct finish through the bulge is worthwhile at VS 4b
   
   
10. Left Flake Corner 18m VD
    Follow the corner bounding the left edge of Central Flake.
    
    
11. Central Flake 18m S,4a *
    Climb the middle of the raised central slab. You'll find gear placements every 6 inches!
    
    
12. Flake Corner 18m VD
    Climb the corner and wall right of Central Flake.
    
    
13. Direct Centre 18m S
    Ascend directly up the wall right of Flake Corner.
    
    
14. Right Edge 18m VD *
    Climb the right edge of the Tor.
    
    

A number of vague lines of (M) to (S) take the series of walls and ribs leading inland from Little Tor.

Little Star Wall

Little Star Wall

Set back from and east (right) of Little Tor, this spot consists of a short steep wall. The first obvious feature is the wide crack on the left of the wall (Scout Crack).

1. Blankety Blank 10m E2,5c
   The wall 3m left of Scout Crack.
   
   
2. Scout Crack 12m S,4a **
   An excellent route providing good crackline fare, though you'll find your self pulling on jugs for the most part!. Even touching the adjacent ledge induces disgrace from some quarters.
   
   
3. Superdirect II 10m E2,5c *
   Takes the thin crackline approx 1 m to the right of scout crack
   
   
4. Superdirect 10m E1,5c *
   A popular problem up the wall 3m right of Scout Crack. Aim for the slanting letterbox in the middle of the face.
   
   
5. Twinkle 12m S *
   Follow the prominent break running up and right across the wall to a finish in Twin Crack Left. A direct variant from the calcite mark goes at 4c.
   
   
6. Stella 10m VS,4c
   This takes the wall between Twinkle and Twin Crack Left.
   
   
7. Twin Crack Left 9m VD
   The left of two cracks with a peapod recess en route 1m right of Stella.
   
   
8. Twin Crack Right 7m D
   The shorter right-hand crack.
   
   

First Ascents

Little Tor

1. J.Talbot 00.00.1960
   
2. J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959
   
3. J.Talbot 00.00.1960
   
4. J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959
   
5. J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959
   
6. C.Wyatt, G.Evans 00.05.2000
   
7. J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959
   
8. J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
   
9. J.Talbot, G.Jones 00.00.1959
   
10. J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/5
    
11. J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
    
12. J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
    
13. J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
    
14. J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
    

Little Star Wall

1. B.Franklin 09.04.1980
   
2. J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
   
3. Chris Praxmarer, C Wyatt 00.00 1995 (Unless anyone did it before?)
   
4. SUMC 1pt 00.00.1965, FFA J.Perrin, C.Tringham 00.00.1970
   
5. J.Brailsford, St.AMRT1954/55
   
6. J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
   
7. J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
   
8. J.Brailsford, StAMRT 1954/55