South Wales Mountaineering Club

Clwb Dringo De Cymru

 

 

www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk

Newsletter, Autumn 2004

 

 

Notes from the Editor

 

You may be thinking that the climbing year is drawing to a close. Of course for those who own ice axe and hammer the fun is just about to start. But rock climbers can also look forward to days out over the coming months. I was transferring the “ticks” from my old guidebook into the new one. Rather than just ticking a route I’ve always noted the date and who I climbed with. Looking back through my old guide book it is astonishing how many routes on Gower were climbed in February! No need to retreat indoors then.

 

It is, however, a time to reflect back over the last year. It has, I think, been a good one, a year that has seen the publication of the new guidebook (at last), a number of new members joining the club and some good climbing.

 

 

SWMC members acclimatising for the big mountains at Machu Picchu, Peru

But as well as looking back over the last year, it’s time to look forward to the next. Some of you will remember writing after last years AGM “I believe in principle that there should be a turnover in committee membership every year. The responsibility to run the club should be shared and there’s no reason why everyone shouldn’t take a turn”.  Well there’s going to be plenty of opportunities for people to take their turn this year. For various reasons, explained elsewhere in this Newsletter, the positions of Secretary and Barn Warden are up for grabs. It’s also time for someone else to take over as Newsletter Editor. If you fancy a go and if you want it, I will give you all the help I can to get you started. It’s really not that difficult. If you’d like to talk this over before the AGM, on 17th November 2004, e mail me at jngoodwin@ntlworld.com or ‘phone me on 029 2030 9056.

 

Although I won’t be on the committee next year there is one bit of unfinished business which I have agreed to complete, that is to draft a Club child protection policy. You will by now have received your notice of the AGM and with it proposals from the committee for amending the Club’s constitution. You might have noticed that one of the proposals is to raise the age at which people will be allowed to join the Club. You may be wondering then, why we need a child protection policy.

 

Whilst the proposal will prevent children from becoming members of the Club it is not the intended to exclude children and young people from the Club’s activities. It has always been the purpose of the Club to foster and encourage interest in mountaineering and climbing and, this being the case, excluding the next generation of climbers may seem perverse. Many members will, of course, want to bring their children to Club meets. We have a tradition of occasional “family meets”. We may even organise specific events for young people. Provided children are accompanied by a parent or carer, someone who is taking responsibility for them, this need not be a problem. An unaccompanied child or young person joining in Club activities raises all sorts of problems of liability and safety which are not issues when an adult member brings along their own children. Hence the change: parents can be members, children cannot.

 

If you have a view about this or anything else to do with the Club, remember the AGM is on 17th November, to be held in Swansea at the Ryddings pub. There will be the traditional free pint for all who bother to turn out for the meeting.

 

The Annual Dinner will be on 26th November at the Discovery Inn in Cardiff. I’ll be having the Wild Mushroom and Brandy Sauce Parcel. See you there!

 

John Goodwin

 

 


Annual Dinner

 

Ladies and gentlemen,


You are cordially invited to this year’s SWMC Annual Dinner. To be held at The Discovery Inn, Celyn Avenue Lakeside,
Cardiff on Friday 19th November 2004.

 

The choice of menu is:

 

Home-made vegetable soup

or

Prawn Cocktail

------------------
Roast topside of beef & Yorkshire pudding

or

Salmon escalope coated in herby breadcrumbs and deep fried

or

Wild mushroom and brandy sauce parcel

All served with roast and baby new potatoes and four seasonal winter vegetables

-------------------------------------
Apple Pie

or

Gateaux

--------
Coffee and mints

 


The evening’s entertainment will be provided by none other than SWMC’s resident swinger - Andy Rees and his band "The Empire of the Clingons". (Ask Andy for the explanation).

 

The whole affair is £17.95 per person. Please can you send your menu choices and cheques, payable to SWMC, to: Sylvia Noorbhai, 5, Violet Place, Whitchurch, Cardiff, CF14 1HT by 8th November or catch her at the wall at WICC on a Monday and Wednesday night.

 

 

Reports from the committee

 

Here’s a summary of some of the things the committee has been beavering away at on your behalf over the last few months, in no particular order.

 

The guidebook finally hit the shelves, something that had occupied many committee meetings over the past couple of years and still occupied our past Chair even after he stepped down. The committee is seeking legal advice following receipt of a letter from someone claiming that they had been libelled by the guidebook writers. Please believe me; this is not why there are so many committee members stepping down this year. This is a matter of the utmost triviality (and only minor amusement).

 

The bulletin board was road tested for several months before being launched. A lot of hard work has gone into this from Tim. The feedback so far seems very positive. We have changed service provider for web hosting, including the bulletin board. It is now faster and much more reliable

 

The committee decided that back copies of the Newsletter should be placed on the Club’s website. No sooner was it decided than it was done.

 

People have commented on that fact that our membership cards don’t fit easily in their wallets. You need to carry your membership card with you so that you can claim a discount in outdoor shops (and sometimes to prove you are entitled to vote at AGM!) so, we set about seeking a supplier of credit card size membership cards. This kind of thing can take up a surprising amount of time.

 

There’s been the usual search for the best interest rate for the Club’s funds and for the perennially missing hut keys.

 

On the subject of the hut, we’ve been attempting to draw up a list of approved tradesmen to use for the Club’s hut, Lletty LLywyd, so that we don’t have to resort to yellow pages when something goes wrong (plumber, roofer, gas engineer etc.). If you have any recommendations please pass them on to a committee member. We’ve also spent quite a lot of time considering the options for improving the cooking facilities. A major debate developed over whether or not we should have an oven.

 

You will be aware from reading your AGM notice that the committee has also undertaken a major review of the Club’s constitution. This had to be revised in any case, for tax reasons, and when we started to look at it we realised how out of date it had become and so, a wholesale revision became inevitable. Any amendment to the constitution has to be approved by the membership at a general meeting. Those attending the AGM will have the option of approving the reforms as a whole or of approving, amending or rejecting individual sections.

 

The BMC are proposing to increase the rates they charge us for affiliation and provision of third party insurance cover. The rate is currently £6.25 per member. Even this means that our concessionary subscription rates, for students and so on, are subsidised. This will become even more the case when the proposed increases go through. It has been decided, therefore, that we will have a new formula for determining subscription rates. The standard membership rate will be the BMC charge plus £4.25. This will currently amount to £11 i.e. no change for now. Those entitled to concessions will pay the BMC charge plus £2.75 or £9 (an increase of £3.50).

 

 

Letter from the Barn Warden

 

This is my last letter as Barn Warden since I will be stepping down at the AGM in November: pressure of (paid) work has finally triumphed, but four years in the post is not a bad innings. If you are interested in taking up the post from November onwards and would like to discuss what’s involved, please give me a call on 01792 527237 or e mail kim.collis@ntlworld.co.uk  The post would appeal to somebody who likes exotic travel and meeting people, or is that travel and meeting exotic people, one or the other.

 

After a work weekend in September to which thanks are due to Nige, Stu, Sylvia, Sian and others for their hard work, we now have a combination keypad on the door. Don’t go up to the barn without the code, which you’ll get when you pick up a key. It also means that if you throw the lock at night, you are less likely to be burgled, but latecomers can still let themselves in using the combination.

 

Talking of burglaries, the set of cow horns mounted in the kitchen which were a club trophy for many years and which were a gift from John Trevelyan, have been pinched recently, between 19 August and 10 September. If you have any information on their disappearance, can you contact me? If any club member has taken them for a laugh, if they could return them, then no questions will be asked

 

Our good neighbour the farmer has finally carried out his threat to demolish the fire escape steps which intrude onto his land. This means that it is not a good idea to open the fire escape door in the living room, since there is a 1 metre drop from the threshold.

 

Bonfire night falls (almost) on a weekend this year, so if enough people fancy going up, we could make a party of it?

 

Kim Collis


Hut keys are available from Kim or, for members living at the Cardiff end, from John Goodwin, Nigel Lewis or Pete Bennett.

 

 

 

Kim Collis

 

kim.collis@ntlworld.co.uk

18, Penygraig Road, Swansea, SA1 6HT
01792 527237
(mobile)0781 6951220

 

 

John Goodwin

 

jngoodwin@ntlworld.com

37, Beatty Avenue, Roath Park, Cardiff, CF23 5QR

029 2030 9056

 

 

Nigel Lewis

 

 

n.and.l@ntlworld.com

 

Pete Bennett

 

Peterb@dolmans.co.uk

12, Heol Ynys Ddu, Castle View, Caerphilly, CF83 1SD

 

 

 

Club Meetings

 

Now that the clocks have gone back outdoor climbing has to be reserved for the weekends for most of us. Wednesday evening outdoor climbing will resume when we revert to BST.

 

Sylvia is organising a programme of Winter slide shows in Cardiff. If you have slides or digital photos (even just a few) that you would be prepared to share
then please get in touch with her. This year’s venue is Llandaff Rugby Club on Western Avenue, meeting every second Wednesday of the month. The actual dated for your diary are: 10th November, 8th December, 12th January, 9th February and 9th March. Depending on the daylight situation the 13th April is an option too. On the October, November, December and February dates there will be a multi-media projector and laptop available for your digital photos. We can organise a slide projector too.

 

In Swansea there will be regular slide evenings at the Ryddings as usual.

 

 

Club meets for the remainder of 2004

 

Date

Meeting

Co-ordinator

 

6th November

 

 

Barn Fire Club Hut

- see the bulletin board
for lift sharing

 

Kim Collis

 kim.collis@ntlworld.co.uk 


 

 

17th November

 

 

Annual General Meeting,

The Ryddings, Swansea

 

 

 

 

26th November

 

 

The Annual Dinner

The Discovery Inn, Celyn Avenue, Lakeside, Cardiff

 

 

Sylvia Noorbhai

 

The new committee will be putting together a new meets list for 2005. If you have any ideas for this or are willing to co-ordinate one of the meets I am sure they would be very happy to hear from you.

You can always find an up to date version of the Meets List on the Club’s website at:            http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk

 

 

 

Novice Day, Symonds Yat, 22nd May Novice Day,

BMC Dates and Information

 

A proportion of your SWMC membership fee goes to the British Mountaineering Council. This brings third party insurance benefits but also goes to finance BMC activities. The BMC is a democratic organisation. You can have your say on the website or at regular meetings. Area Committee meetings are open to all.

 

Date

Event

Venue

20th November 2004, 7.00pm

Area Committee for Wales

 

To be confirmed

 

The BMC is also looking for people to act as volunteers in various capacities. More details on the website at:

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/thebmc/areacom/area_meetings.asp?area_drop=7

 

 

Lessons from the First Lead Climb Weekend

 

One thing is clear to me; you can’t learn everything about lead climbing on one weekend. However, I reckon these are some of key points:

 

Lesson No. 1 - Arrive at the hut before sunset

 

Given that the club hut is hidden in a remote field in North Wales finding it in the dark is not easy. Indeed, it is not entirely improbable that several would be lead climbers might still be missing. On the plus side, I guess this at least this ensures that club members who pass the initiation have reasonable navigation skills!

 

Top Tip: travel with someone who knows where they are going!

 

Lesson No. 2 - Get someone else to make your food

 

Four gas burners are insufficient cooking power for a pack of ravenous late (lost but found) arrivals but, at least they warm the kitchen up.

 

Top Tip: Rodas’s fish pie.

 

Lesson No. 3 - Ear plugs

 

Being in bed with 22 other people isn’t a problem, the difficulty only starts when they lose interest and fall asleep. Of course I don’t snore but it’s a surprisingly popular past time and if you’re going to be up for Chris’s morning lecture some sleep is an advantage.

 

Top tip: to increase your popularity rating, bring at least 3 pairs of ear plugs and share them around.

 

Lesson No. 4 - Cracks are often smaller than you think

 

To the untrained eye a crack in a rock is just that but, to the budding lead climber cracks are a labyrinth of complex possibilities. All senses have just one focus, to find a secure home for your nut, hex or friend. Under this sensory scrutiny even the smallest crack takes on gargantuan dimensions.

 

Top Tip: cracks are about 2 sizes smaller than you think.

 

Lesson No. 5 - I’d sooner have a nut

 

OK, so they have a reassuring name and they are fun to play with but, they don’t exactly inspire confidence. At least with a nut you know where you are but Friends, they are all over the place! I guess you just have to hope that although they might creep up or in they won’t creep out!

 

Top Tip: hold on tight!

 

Lesson No. 6 - Equalising a belay on rock is not as easy as it is on a fridge

 

Setting up an equalised belay looked deceptively easy in the club hut. All you needed was a solid bit of wood (holding up the roof) and the door of a fridge. In reality, it’s much harder to find a fridge when you need one.

 

Top Tip: Karabiners weren’t designed to take 2 slings, 3 clove hitches a figure of eight and a belay plate, well not all at once!

 

And, who said “a little learning is a dangerous thing”!

 

Thanks to everyone who made the weekend possible.

 

Tom Margrain

 

 

No Parking

 

The Liverpool MC has a parking bay on the road, pretty much opposite the gate leading down to Lletty LLywyd. This is for the use of Liverpool MC members and their guests and they don’t like other people using it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Market Place

 

For sale: Wild Country bouldering mat - unused & still boxed (won in a competition).  Comparable ones cost over £100 - sell for £50.  Contact Andy Rees on 07980 444676 or Sarah Vickers on 07970 144401 or email andy.rees@logicacmg.com

 

For sale: “Gower and South East Wales” – In case you didn’t realise these beauties can be bought by Club members at a discount of 25 per cent.  You can get your copy from your nearest Membership Secretary (currently Tim in Swansea or Sian in Cardiff but, who knows, this may all change at the AGM)!

 

Andy Kirkpatrick is doing his only South Wales mountaineering lecture at Brecon Theatre on the 5th November at 7:30pm.  Tickets are £5.50 from www.planetfear.com and £6 on the door.

 

 

Social Announcements

Goodbye to Stuart Lloyd. Stuart has in turn been a very efficient Membership Secretary for Cardiff and Club Secretary. His First Lead Weekends have been a great success. Unfortunately for us he is moving to Cornwall. I hear that he has already sold his house and is negotiating the purchase of another. He’ll be missed.

Congratulations to Pete and Rach Bennett who had a baby boy at 2.35 a.m. on 23rd September.

 

 

 

The next Newsletter

 

Will be published shortly by whoever takes over as Newsletter Editor. Please submit news items, letters, articles or pictures to them and not to me. I would like to say a great big

 

thank you

 

to everyone who has contributed articles, news, ideas and, especially, pictures during the time that I have been in the editor’s chair – please keep it up!