South Wales Mountaineering Club

Clwb Dringo De Cymru

 

 

www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk

Newsletter, December 2003

 

 

Notes from the Editor

 

“Well I don’t mind doing it so long as there’s no-one else who’s prepared to give it a go”. How many times have we heard this at AGMs when it comes round to electing the next year’s committee? Sometimes this is a bit of assumed modesty but frequently people really do mean it. It’s not that we don’t want to be on the committee, it’s good to feel that you’re giving something back to the climbing community and some even have ambitions for our Club, things they want to see changed.

 

Committee meetings this last couple of years have been less of a chore than I remember them being when I was previously on the committee. My last stint of committee work was so long ago that I was involved with the publication of the last edition of the guide book. These days we take it in turn to have the meetings in our homes and to provide a meal. They are much more social occasions. Nonetheless, it cannot be denied that the business is at times rather tedious.

 

This was not, however, why I meant it when, like almost everyone asked if they’ll stand for one more year, I used those words at the AGM. I believe in principle that there should be a turnover in committee membership every year. The responsibility to run the club should be shared and there’s no reason why everyone shouldn’t take a turn. There’s a danger that a committee can get entrenched, out of touch with the membership and in pursuit of their own agenda. New committee members question the assumptions, the status quo and bring fresh ideas. That’s why it’s so good to have so many fresh faces on this year’s committee.

 

John Goodwin

 

 

Annual General Meeting 2003

 

Not having the minutes to hand to refer to I’ll have to rely on my memory for this account. Those of you who know me well will know that this is far from infallible. However, this is not the official account of the AGM just my report on the goings on. I’m sure that if I make any errors those of you who were there will point them out. I might even make a few deliberate mistakes in order to provoke a bit of correspondence.

 

Nigel gave the Chairman’s report of the past year. The current membership of the club was given as 99 but I know that we’ve had at least one recruit since then so we’re into treble figures! The achievements and activities of the year were summarised. Nigel then invited past Chair Gwyn Evans to give an update on work on the guide book. The good news is that we are actually at the stage of submitting copy to the printer and it is expected that the new book will hit the shops for Easter 2004.

 

In the newsletter of December 2002 I reported that there had been no statement of accounts at the 2002 AGM. This year there was a statement of the Club’s financial position, as I understand it, the fruit of the joint labours of Gareth Smitham (elected Treasurer in 2002) and Kim Collis. It was reassuring to see some figures confirming that the Club is in a healthy position as far as finances go. These were not, however, a fully audited set of accounts and we look forward to getting back to a more regular state of affairs with our newly elected Treasurer Llio Elgar.

 

There were in fact several new people elected on to the committee. We were treated to the novelty of people spontaneously volunteering in the meeting for positions on the committee, apparently under no pressure, obligation or duress whatsoever.

 

Gary Lewis proposed that there should be a new committee position created in order to represent a group of Club members who are based at WICC. It wasn’t possible to do this at the meeting since this would require an amendment to the constitution and due process has to be observed in such a case, the proposed amendment being notified in advance to the membership etc. etc.

 

The committee is, however, empowered to co-opt members to join them. By common assent, therefore, Pete Wardman was asked to serve on the committee for the forthcoming year. The committee will consider whether any change to the current constitution is necessary or desirable and will bring any consequent amendments to the next AGM.

 

Here’s a full list of the new committee and how to contact them. Remember, we want to hear from you, it’s your Club.

 

 

Nigel Lewis

 

Chair

Nrllal@aol.com

(mobile) 07989 571 191

Stuart Lloyd

Secretary

stuart.Lloyd@bt.com

01446 792 363

(mobile) 07710 187 924

Llio Elgar

Treasurer

 


 

Kim Collis

Barn Warden

kim.collis@ntlworld.co.uk

18, Penygraig Road,

Swansea,

 SA1 6HT
01792 527 237
(mobile) 07816 951 220

John Goodwin

Newsletter Editor

jngoodwin@ntlworld.com

37, Beatty Avenue,

Roath Park,

Cardiff,

CF23 5QR

029 2030 9056

Sian Hutchinson

Membership Secretary, Cardiff

sianhutchinson@yahoo.co.uk

029 2062 1069

(mobile) 07817 423 195

Sylvia Noorbhai

Ordinary Member, Cardiff

 

Tim Hoddy

Membership Secretary, Swansea

tim.hoddy@ntlworld.com

41, Y Berllan,
Dunvant,
Swansea,
SA2 7RW

01792 520 362
(mobile) 07779 898 109

Chris Wyatt

Ordinary Member, Swansea

christopher.wyatt@majotech.com 19, Cwmdonkin Terrace,

Swansea,

SA1 0RQ

01792 521228

(mobile) 07890828031

Pete Wardman

Co-opted committee member

07808 365 248

 

 

The Annual Dinner

 

And after the AGM, as always, came the Annual Dinner. This year it was Swansea’s turn to host the dinner. About 40 members turned up at Sketty Hall for what turned out to be a really enjoyable evening (why weren’t you there?). The food was pretty good and the company excellent. Nigel gave a (thankfully) short speech.

 

Following this, a presentation of one of the newly designed club shirts was made to Benedicte Cordier, retiring Ordinary Member, Cardiff. Benedicte had to stand down from the committee owing to the fact that she was returning to her native soil. She will by now be back home in the Jura Mountains where, she has said, she would be very happy to see old friends!

 

After the speeches the band struck up. Since this was a ceilidh band, after a while Dave Parsons was prevailed upon to organise a few set dances. Dave is an expert at such things unlike a large proportion of the participants. This, of course, makes it so much more fun. There were a few collisions and much confusion. Individuals were often seen heading off in the wrong direction partnerless. At one point two such met but I have to tell you, sad to say, that Kim refused Gary’s outspread arms and carried on in search of a more acceptable partner. Gary looked quite crestfallen.

 

An excellent night, thanks to Chris Wyatt for organising it all.

 

 

Reports from the committee

 

A regular item in the newsletter, however, there’s nothing to report from the committee since there’s been no meeting since the AGM.

 

The first meeting of the new committee will be on 13th January 2004. If you have anything that you would like the committee to do something about just contact any committee member (details above).

 

 

Letter from the Barn Warden

 

Well, the Christmas lights are up on the barn and looking great. This year we have a full set of flashing reindeer to go with Santa and his sleigh - it's good to know where your membership fees are being spent.

 

The work weekend in October was not a great success attendance-wise. I was the only club member there, although two of my mates came up and together we painted the outside of the barn, or as much as three of us could do in a weekend. It looks very smart on the outside just now. If you are prepared to lend a hand at the next work weekend in February or March, please get in touch.

 

The question of barn fees for 2004 is still to be decided. A small increase in the overnight fee may be necessary to compensate for the fact that we now have no electricity meter, courtesy of the person who smashed his way into it.

 

If anybody has a radio or even better a micro hi-fi system to spare, please get in touch. The coffee table could also do with replacing if anybody has one. Email me at kim.collis@ntlworld.co.uk

 

Kim Collis

 

Hut keys are available from Kim or, for members living at the Cardiff end, from John Goodwin or Nigel Lewis (contact details above).

 

 

 

 

Membership Matters!


Subscriptions for club membership are due on January 1st. These can be paid to membership secretaries by sending a cheque made out to the SWMC, handing over cash to membership secretaries, or the preferred option which is to set up a standing order. Membership forms including a standing order mandate are available from the website.

 

You can find the contact details for the Membership Secretaries in the committee details above.

 

Please note that BMC insurance is dependent on being a member of the BMC and that if you haven't paid your subs and are not a member of the BMC by any other means then you're not covered by the BMC insurance.

 

An additional benefit of membership next year will be the substantial members discount on the new guide book to South East Wales and Gower.


Using e mail to communicate with members saves time and money. Can any member who has recently got an e-mail address or changed their address please send an e-mail to their membership secretary so they can be added to the club’s distribution list
.

 

 

Club Shirts

 

Gary Lewis is organising a bulk order of club T shirts, sweat shirts, hoodies, or smarter shirts (as modelled by Benedicte at the club dinner). You can order through Gary or you can call at the shop yourself. They will put the club logo onto most items that you take along to them.

 

The shop is LOGO at 9, Royal Arcade, Cardiff, CF10 1AE, call 029 2023 0163 or www.logoembroideries.com

 

If you want to order through Gary, phone him on 029 2021 4677.

 

 

Club Meetings

 

During the Winter months, as usual, there will be slide show evenings in both Cardiff and Swansea. In Cardiff these are on the second Wednesday in the month (14th January, 11th February and 10th March) whilst in Swansea they are on the third Wednesday of each month (21st January, 18th February and 17th March).

 

The Cardiff meetings are held in the bar of the Channel View Leisure Centre. This venue has the advantage of having a climbing wall. Although slide shows will start c. 9.00pm in the bar, come early and use the climbing wall!

 

The venue for the Swansea meetings is The Rhyddings, Bryn Mill which has the advantage of good beer. The slide shows start at 9.30pm, come early and have an extra pint! Swansea members meet at The Rhyddings every week but the slide shows are only on the third Wednesday of every month.

 

 

 

“Kalanag - Ski Mountaineering in the Himalayas

Cardiff slide show 14th January

 

 

BMC Dates and Information

 

Area meetings are open to all, here are the meeting dates. If you’re interested you can check out the venue details for meetings and volunteering opportunities on the BMC website.

 

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/thebmc/areacom/area_res.asp?area_drop=7

 

 


 

Date

Event

Venue

24th January 2003

Area Committee for Wales

To be confirmed

27th March

Area Committee for Wales

To be confirmed

9th June

Area Committee for Wales

To be confirmed

18th September

Area Committee for Wales

To be confirmed

20th November

Area Committee for Wales

To be confirmed

 

 

Old Places, Older Faces

 

Gwyn Evans

 

“As you’re a member of the CC any chance you could arrange for a couple of us to stay at Helyg?”   This was Guy Richardson calling, another CC member (Caravan Club).  “My mate has been reading all about the oldest climbing hut in Britain and he really wants to stay there to soak up the atmosphere”.   I replied that I would be in North Wales that weekend and perhaps we could link up and renew old climbing acquaintances.

 

In 1974 the SWMC sent a foraging party west, to Swansea, to see if there were any worthwhile pickings in the way of new members, new rock and in the individuals’ cases career opportunities.  Guy Richardson and Mike Danford were the original migrants and I joined them about six months later from “oop north, in Yorkshire”.  During the first winter Guy had to be gently reminded that hibernation just wasn’t on and was soon stretching his digits on cold Gower limestone, but it was “good for the soul”.

 

Time wore on and eventually Guy saw the light and headed to the Lakes. There he had met Dave his “mate”.  Mike and I had stayed in Swansea and between times we had met up for the odd route or two and to introduce newcomers to the delights of Gower rock.

 

Friday midnight and I arrived via Cardiff at a hut full of atmosphere, a blazing log fire and mugs of tea with cake.  It seemed that the climbing arrangements had been sorted, I was to climb with Dave while the “mountaineers” would recreate their Baffin Island partnership.  It was also obvious that this was going to be a wholly traditional weekend, stay in the first British climbing hut and climb on one of the traditional cliffs, Tryfan’s East face.  Here, to quote the guidebook “the climbing is old–style stuff, never too serious, with a good hold or ledge usually to hand, leaving the senses free to revel in the delights of the situation”.

 

Saturday morning, after stocking up on bacon and eggs and further large mugs of tea it was off to the crag, but not in the traditional way, we chose to drive, well I had to be in Llanberis for 6:30.  A flog up the initial part of the North Ridge saw Dave and I stopping to chat to various acquaintances.  So pleasant were these chats that we missed the turning to the Heather Terrace and enjoyed an exciting scramble across heather and scree.

 

North Buttress (moderate) was the obvious way up to Terrace Wall.  The passage of countless feet (many booted) over the years has rendered the first groove of this route in need of regrading, even when using sticky rubber. Eventually we arrived at the Terrace Wall “the pride of the East Face; a cheerful sunny spot, which gives a refreshing opportunity to indulge in some gymnastic climbing”.  Of Belle Vue Bastion the guide says, “...the Bastion Edge is an imposing prospect”.  The first pitch goes out beneath some overhangs and round the corner into a more lonely world, out of sight and sound of the second man.  An interesting step left onto a small ledge on a steep slab being distinctly lonely with not much more protection in 2003 than Ivan Waller enjoyed in 1927 (or when he repeated it 58 years after that ascent).  When Dave came up there was much comment about old, bold men!  The second pitch makes similar moves right and out onto an exposed “bracket” followed by a mantelshelf.  After that it’s all over, ending within walking distance of Adam and Eve. This was not to be a truly traditional visit however; Dave’s ankle was giving him some gyp, so we forewent the summit and retreated to the sacks where Dave announced that there was a bottle of champagne waiting in Helyg.  It transpired that he had wanted to do Belle Vue Bastion for at least 16 years and my role in the planning of the previous night became clear.

 

But we couldn’t justify a bottle of champagne on just two routes so, bad ankle or not, Dave was bundled down to the Milestone for the Superdirect.  A party from Jagged Globe was already on it but we managed to speed them up it until the last pitch.  Here the leader stood aside, ostensibly teaching his charges how to place nuts and make belays, so we could go through. Unfortunately the fluidity of the lower pitches departed and there were a number of forays onto the front face of the block before the moves into the crack were made.  At this point it seems the JG crew opted to finish by way of the Direct Route’s slimy final chimney (but it is straight up and down!).

 

The champagne justified I set off for Llanberis and the others for Cobden’s. The champagne cork was launched over the roof of Helyg later that night and then we went indoors to a traditional roaring log fire and mugs of tea.  Here we heard tales of Crag X (somewhere in the Lledr Valley), just to show that even in the most traditional of venues there are still new opportunities.

 

 

Stories from the Vertical World

 

Thomas and Alex Huber and Leo Houlding are touring together in January with their Stories from the Vertical World Tour and will be in Swansea at the
University of Wales' Taliesin Theatre on 22nd January 2004 at 7.30pm.
Tickets are priced at £10 or £8.50 for BMC members and NUS student card
holders. Further information is available on the Berghaus website and
tickets are available from the Taliesin box office at the University of
Wales, Singleton Park campus or you can call them on 01792 295 491.


South Wales U16 Climbing Competition

 

Linda Jenson

 

In an effort to increase the number of youngsters representing South Wales in the BRYCS (British Regional Youth Climbing Competition Series), the Welsh International Climbing Centre teamed up with the South Wales Mountaineering Club and other local climbers to host a friendly indoor climbing competition for local youngsters on December 6th.

 

The event was a great success, with fourteen entrants and no one went home empty handed – many thanks to the W.I.C.C., Lyon Equipment & Megagrip for their generous prize donations.

 

Competitors were aged between 9 and 15 and split into 3 age categories, each climbing 3 top roped routes and 5 boulder problems (with the exception of 13 year old  Liam Fife who opted to lead his final route, topped out and went on to win his age category).

 

As the competition progressed, route setters realised that they had underestimated the climbing standards of the competitors, but it all just about worked out with clear winners emerging in the different groups.

 

We hope to hold more competitions for youngsters over the next few months, the next one will be a bouldering only event on the 31 January 2004.




There is a club for experienced young climbers at WICC which is held on Saturday mornings between 10.00 and 12.00.  The next session will be held on January 10. For more information contact Linda Jensen 029 2065 2992 or Roy Carr 01443 710 828.

 

Merry Christmas and Happy Climbing in the New Year!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coming Soon

 

The next newsletter will be published in March 2004. Please submit items, requests or pictures by 1st March. See above for my contact details.

 

All submissions will be considered for publication and almost definitely printed.

Remember, the submission date means the date for inclusion in the next newsletter. Any item can be sent to me at any time for future publication.

 

 

 

 

Can you fill this space?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you think you can, send any items for the newsletter to:

jngoodwin@ntlworld.com