South Wales Mountaineering Club

Clwb Dringo De Cymru

www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk

Newsletter, September 2003

Notes from the Editor

The Summer of 2003 looks like being one for the record books. No doubt in twenty years or so we'll catch ourselves saying something about how the weather isn't as good as it used to be..... "I remember back in 2003 the Summer just seemed to go on for ever!"

Recent days have brought definite hints of Autumn, a chill in the air and the leaves beginning to turn. I hope that, whilst weekday evening climbing may no longer be practical, there will be plenty of fine weekends ahead. The year's by no means over, nevertheless, Autumn is a time for reflecting back over the year so far and beginning to make plans for the next.

For me, it's time for organising the slide show evenings, a perennial feature of the Club's programme for the Autumn and Winter months. "Slide shows...." I hear you mutter ".....what planet is he on, nobody takes slides anymore". Well, that's how it seems to me as well. In recent years people have been taking themselves off to all sorts of remote and interesting spots but finding people who took slide film with them has been increasingly difficult.

There was a time when everyone took slides all the time. This meant that the Winter evening meetings not only provided a chance to catch up with what others had been up to on their travels and maybe get ideas and useful information for your own trips but also an opportunity to share the triumphs and failures of fellow members on local crags.

I know it's too late to get you to take slide film on this year's trip but it occurs to me that more and more people are switching to digital cameras. In fact I have! And we have the technology folks. With laptop and multi media projector to hand we can still put on a show! So, whether you have slides or digital photo files of that trip (or day out), even if you've only a few that you'd be prepared to share with others, we'd love to hear from you. Please get in touch with me (contact details below) for the Cardiff slide evenings or else one of the Swansea based committee members for events there.

John Goodwin

Notice of the Annual general meeting

This year the AGM will be at Llandaff Rugby Club, Western Avenue, Cardiff at 7.30pm on Wednesday 12th November 2003. Any member who wishes any item placed onto the agenda must contact the Club Secretary, Peter Bennett, by 8th October 2003. Pete can be contacted by email at Peterb@dolmans.co.ukor by snail mail at 12 Heol Ynys Ddu, Caerphilly, CF83 1SD.

All members who attend the AGM will be entitled to a pint from club funds.

The Annual Dinner

The annual dinner will take place at Swansea's Sketty Hall, on the evening of Friday 21st November 2003. Entertainment will be provided by Chris Wyatt dancing to a band. The usual Olive branch will be offered, with those travelling from Cardiff being offered bed space, garage floors and local knowledge by Swansea members.

The Chairman's Meet

The chairman's meet, is traditionally on the day after the Annual Dinner. This year it will be held in the Gower area.  Your Editor has not been apprised of the exact location so, in order to know where and when to meet, you will either have to attend the dinner or else phone the Chairman very early the next day.

Reports from the committee

The committee last met on 8th September 2003. Gwyn Evans gave an update on the forthcoming guidebook and it would be fair to say there is light at the end of the tunnel. Various quotes are being drawn up by printers and a decision will be made at the beginning of October as to what we will produce. Expect to see the new book early next year.

The hut lock has been changed due to unlawful access over the summer (see Kim's letter below). The procedure for obtaining keys will have to be tightened up. If non members are borrowing keys they will need to verify their identity. Everyone can expect to pay a £10 deposit until the key is returned to the key holder.

Nigel Lewis

Letter from the Barn Warden

In the last couple of months, there has been a break-in at the barn as a result of which the gas and electricity meters were emptied of their contents. Consequently, we have had to change the padlock on the door again. The electricity meter was smashed beyond repair. This means that you will no longer have to pay for electricity.

Also smashed is the timer switch on the toilets, which is good if you did not like it in the first place, but please turn off the light when you finish using the toilet. Otherwise the extractor fan continues to run indefinitely - annoying if you are trying to sleep in the main dormitory.

There will be a work weekend on the 18th and 19th October. I hope we can get a number of urgent jobs done that weekend, so please come if you can.

Two weeks later, on the 1st November, there will be the traditional bonfire. There's a lot of wood stacked ready, so it could last longer than the customary five minutes.

Kim Collis

Hut keys are available from Kim or, for members living at the Cardiff end, from John Goodwin, Nigel Lewis or Pete Bennett (contact details below).

Club Meets

The new committee will meet following the AGM to decide, amongst other things, on the meets list for 2004. If you have any ideas for this or would be prepared to co-ordinate a meet please let a committee member know. The next edition of the Club's Newsletter is due out in the middle of December 2003 and this will contain the new meets list.

BMC Dates and Information

For details of Recent Area Committee meetings and opportunities to get involved in the work of the BMC check out the Wales area webpage.

www.thebmc.co.uk/thebmc/areacom/area_res.asp?area_drop=7

Area Committee meetings are open to all, go along and have your say! The next meeting dates are:

Walking with the Mules

Benedicte Cordier

During Easter I spent time in the middle of the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. This trip out of space and time is one that cannot be forgotten. I wanted to share the experience with you.

A French mountain guide I know was organizing a trip in the Atlas Mountains for 10 people. The idea was to fly to Marrakech, take a bus and a mini bus to reach the end of the road then walk following a river valley for ten days before taking a mini bus, then a bus to get back to Marrakech. The plan sounded interesting so I decided to go.

On arrival in Marrakech I was astonished and overwhelmed. Everything was just a big culture shock! We had to discuss the price of the taxi for nearly 30 minutes. The road had 4 lanes; two for the cars, one for mopeds or bikes and another for the mules. The town was busy, noisy, rich in colours and in odours and I really felt uncomfortable.

The following day we took the bus. This was, in itself, a challenge. People were in and out of the bus at frequent interval, changing buses. The first driver counted and recounted the number of passengers. The second driver was "looking after" the luggage whilst the third driver chatted with someone. Three hours later the bus moved slowly out of Marrakech. In the afternoon we transferred to a mini bus, a 1970 model, only just fit to drive. As we approached the mountains it began to snow.

On the first day of the walk, three muleteers and four mules joined us. The mules carried the luggage. We carried only water, our coat and a bit of food. On this first day, the hardest ascent was waiting for us. I reached the top of the 2910 m pass of Tizi n Ait Imi with slow and regular movements. The ice at the summit contrasted with the deep blue of the sky. On the other side we saw the M'gnoun Mountain and the valley of the Oued Mgoun. This is this valley we followed for the next 10 days. We arrived finally at the first village comprising four houses constructed with mud. Everyone in the village looked at us as if we had come from Mars. None of them were really used to seeing a stranger in this part of the valley and you must have to be a bit mad to come here just for "fun".

In all the villages we passed through, no water, electricity or any kind of Western comfort was available. We generally stayed in a big room that was provided for us by someone in exchange of a bit of money. We slept on carpets put on the floor. If we needed water we had to take it from the river. We were followed by kids each time we went out ? not easy to go to the loo or have a wash.

The meal was eaten with the family. Generally 3 big plates of food, mainly potatoes and couscous, were served. We would eat sitting on the floor, using our right hand as a spoon. Everyone sat around the plates and shared the meal.

Generally all were asleep by 9.00pm and woke up with the sun or with the crow of the cock.

The ten days passed regularly: waking up for a breakfast of soup, mint tea, fresh baked flat bread and mint tea. Did I mention that we had mint tea ten times a day? Then we walked through red rocky scenery cut by the green of the vegetation spread along the river. We reached the next village played with the kids, stopped, drank mint tea and stayed for the night in a room.

It was definitively a simple way to spend the days. It felt out of space and out of time. We walked between five and seven hours each day with plenty of breaks. We had days off walking as well, to spend time with the people or just to enjoy the mountains.

The discomfort of the travel was made bearable by the incredible scenery. Each detour was amazing; as the rock changed colours or the distant snow covered mountains reappeared. The best part was at night when the sky was clear and full of stars.

The language of the local people is Berber but in fact I didn't need to speak it. The women invited me for tea. They tried to pronounce my name and laughed at my clothes and put Berber make up around my eyes. Kids were all over the place; they wanted to speak French and tried a few words. Men looked at me strangely and tried to understand why I wasn't married or had kids. This is just not possible in the valley. We were just like Martians!

We finally reached the last part of the walk, the gorge of the Oued in the Jbel Oulahrim. We had to cross the Oued a few times and the cold water reached our thighs. The current was fast and we needed to support each other to cross the Oued.

After the gorge came the return to civilisation. The valley is preserved naturally, upstream by the pass and down stream by the gorge. Soon after the gorge we found a shack where we could buy coca cola, chocolate, biscuits or sweets. From this point we began to see other travellers, then electricity and then tarmac. That was the end of the journey.

We took a mini bus then a bus back to Marrakech, then flew back to Lyon. I took the plane back to Cardiff ? It all felt rather strange.

Benedicte Cordier

Developing Youth

Linda Jensen and Gary Lewis will be wearing their BMC Youth Development hats during October and November culminating on Saturday 6th of December when a friendly youth climbing competition will be held.

Climbing sessions for committed youngsters and parents will be held on Saturday mornings 10am until 12am starting on 4th October at WICC. Kids should have already attended the basic Wall Warriors course or similar and be able to tie on and belay correctly. A member of WICC staff will dotting the i's and crossing the t's and keeping a general eye on the proceedings each week.

The aim will be to have good fun while climbing safely. Also, a useful spin off might be that by this time next year WICC may well be able to field a team of young climbers across all the age groups at local and possibly national competitions. Thanks to the new management at WICC for helping to get this up and running. Please support all our efforts. If this first session is well supported then a further 8 weeks after Xmas will be arranged.

The sessions will cost £3 for child and adult (non climbing belay bunny). We need and welcome Parental support. Over 14 year olds can climb without adult supervision provided parental consent is given in writing on arrival, cost £3 also. Please contact Gary, Linda or WICC if you or your children are interested. There are a limited number of places available.

Gary Lewis

A fine little climb in Snowdonia

The weekend was fixed. The weather looked good. The families were happy!

At long last Barry and I could get away for the weekend in Snowdonia.

We had a great time on Friday night at Tremadoc. Also Sunday morning gave us the opportunity (at last) to do Diagonal on the Mot. But the highlight of the weekend was Cloggy's masterpiece 'White Slab'

The left hand column is a copy of the Paul Williams guide book. The Right hand is my translation.

Chris Wyatt

White Slab E1 (1Pt) 570- ft/176 m ***

R Mosely, J Smith, 1956

The elegant hourglass-shaped slab R of longlands is easily identifiable on approach to the crag, visibility permitting. A classic expedition of the highest calibre which gives sustained climbing at a reasonable standard. The route has a 'big feel' about it, especially if this is one's first visit to the cliff. About 100ft/30m R of the foot of Eastern Terrace, past the red groove of west buttress eliminate, the overhangs are split by a smaller wet groove. Start just right of this at a small shattered pinnacle leaning against some overhangs.

1. 60ft/20m 5b. From the top of the pinnacle, step down and traverse delicately L along the lip of overhangs past a shallow groove to reach a wet groove. Climb it to a large flake belay. A serious pitch to second

2. 80ft/24m. 4b. Climb the groove and crack behind the stance to a belay just right of the foot of the main slab.

3. 120ft/37m 5a. From the foot of the slab, climb up a little then move L to the arête. Follow this past a PR to a good spike at 60ft/18m. Move delicately R then continue past a tiny flake until a step L round the arête leads into a groove. Ascend this for 20ft/6m to a small stance

4. 65ft/20m. The lasso pitch. From the edge of the slab, lasso a small sharp spike in the groove on its far side and swing across to reach it (or free climb to reach it at E2 5c). Move L 10ft/3m and go up to a PB. A pitch easier for Rodeo Stars than Rock Stars

5. 120ft /37m. 5a. Climb straight up the edge of the slab to a ledge at 60ft/18m. Continue up past a PR finishing direct to a stance and belay at the top of the slab.

6. 30ft/9m. traverse easily L and go up the crevassed stance of Longlands

7. 90ft/27m. Climb the overhanging arête, then the chimney on the R as for Longlands

White Slab E1 (1Pt) 570- ft/176 m ***

R Mosely, J Smith, 1956

The elegant hourglass-shaped slab R of longlands is totally invisible on approach to the crag, even when it's a beautiful sunny day. A classic expedition of the highest calibre which gives sustained fear throughout. The route has a 'big feel' about it, even if this is one's second visit to the cliff. About 100ft/30m R of the foot of Eastern Terrace, past the red groove of west buttress eliminate, the overhangs are split by a smaller wet groove/jungle. Start just right of this at a small shattered pinnacle leaning against some overhangs.

1. 60ft/20m 5b. From the top of the pinnacle, step down and traverse on slippery sloping footholds with tiny finger pockets for your hands. Don't worry about the gear. There isn't any! - and besides - you'll only swing into the pinnacle and knock a few teeth out. It's doubtful whether you'll die! Don't even think about your second - you've got enough worries of your own!

2. 80 ft/24m. Not quite 4b (more like 4c) but a pleasant enough pitch.

3. 120 ft/37m Get climbing and place a piece at 5ft - You don't know where your next piece of gear is.! Forget the PR at 40ft. It's now a small brown stain faintly resembling the one in your pants. You can get a dodgy wire in at 50ft if you're lucky. At this point just repeat the following mantra with absolute conviction: "I am an eagle!" After you have created the perfect 3 point belay, don't forget to tie in!

4. 65ft/20m 5c. Forget it - you are going to have to climb! Traverse slightly down and right for 10ft and then launch up on impossibly small crimps and smears. When you've got 20ft of run out and are just about to get into a half decent layaway position, lose your footing, shout 'Bugger! and find yourself in a position dangling over 300ft of space 40ft below the belay. Get mad. Pull up on the ropes to the belay and do it right the second time!

5. 120ft/37m 5a. Another beautiful slab pitch which actually has some gear

6. It really is easy, You may as well run on into pitch 7

7. Think to yourself 'We're just getting off now it hasn't even got a technical grade!' Then find a 5a pitch where every hold is wobbly, the gear is terrible and the exposure mind bending. Go on! Enjoy it!

A Lecture/Slide show - Thursday December 4^th 2003, Cardiff, venue to be announced.

Dave and Helen Parsons met and ski mountaineered with Chic in back country Canada this March. They are helping Chic by arranging this lecture to support his visit to the U.K.

"The Mountains of Canada"

This presentation is an outstanding mixture of beautiful scenic images, exciting climbing and skiing shots and fascinating historic photographs. It is a journey across Canada discovering the magnificent wilderness of British Columbia's Coast Mountains, the jagged summits of the Columbia Ranges and the storied Canadian Rockies. Then East to the Laurentians for waterfall ice climbing in the Malbaie Valley and rock climbing at Val David. Further East are the Torngats of Labrador and North, the mountainous expanses of Ellesmere Island and the granite walls of Baffin Island, the magic of the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the North West Territories and the frozen majesty of Yukon's Mount Logan.

Chic Scott

It has been forty years since Chic Scott discovered the magic of high places. During a lifetime of adventure he has climbed and skied around the world, organized clubs and foundations, written books and worked as a mountain guide. His odyssey has taken him from the icefields of the Canadian Rockies to the historic climbs of the European Alps, from the grandeur of the Himalayas to the icy solitude of Mount Logan. In all seasons, on foot and on skis he has followed his passion.

Some of his major adventures over the years have been a first winter ascent of Mount Assiniboine (1967), the first Jasper to Lake Louise high level ski traverse (1967), the Aiguille du Dru North Face in the French Alps (1973), and Myagdi Matha (1973) - the first Himalayan summit reached by a Canadian. His guidebook "Summits and Icefields" is a classic of the genre, while "Pushing the Limits, the Story of Canadian Mountaineering", is considered the authority on the subject.

In recent years Chic has received several awards - honorary memberships of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (1995), the Calgary Mountain Club (1997) and The Alpine Club of Canada (2000), and the Bill March Summit of Excellence Award (2000). His magnum opus "Pushing the Limits, the story of Canadian Mountaineering" has won four awards including Alberta Trade Book of the Year, and the Wilfred Eggleston Award for Non Fiction.

Chic now resides in Cochrane, Alberta where he earns his living writing books and magazine articles and giving slide shows on mountain topics. When not at his computer Chic can be found hiking, skiing, or climbing in the nearby Rocky Mountains, or perhaps sitting around the fire at one of the ACC huts telling stories.

In the sixties and seventies, Chic travelled to Europe. During the next seven summers he climbed extensively in the Alps making ascents of many serious routes such as the Dent d'Herens north face, the Gervesutti Pillar on Mont Blanc du Tacul, the north face of the Aiguille du Dru, the north face of the Aiguille de Triolet, the Swiss Direct route on the north face of Les Courtes and a new route on the north face of the Aiguille d'Argentiere.
During these summers he was employed by the International School of Mountaineering (Director Dougal Haston) in Leysin, Switzerland, and, in a guiding capacity, made ascents of routes such as the Sentinel Rouge on the Brenva Face of Mont Blanc, the north buttress of the Aiguille du Chardonnet, the Hornli Ridge on the Matterhorn and the Whymper Couloir on the Aiguille Verte. His last summer in Europe was spent working for Universal Studios making the Clint Eastwood film 'The Eiger Sanction'.

Further information about this event can be had from Dave and Helen at parsons.dinaspowys@virgin.netor by phone on 029 2051 3440.

...also coming soon

The next newsletter will be published in December 2003. Please submit news items, letters, articles or pictures by 1^st December.

All submissions will be considered for publication and almost definitely printed.

Remember, the submission date means the date for inclusion in the next newsletter. An item can be sent to me at any time for future publication. Send your contributions to:

jngoodwin@ntlworld.com

37, Beatty Avenue,

Roath Park,

Cardiff,

CF23 5QR