South Wales Mountaineering Club

Clwb Dringo De Cymru

www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk

Newsletter, September 2002

Notes from the editor

A very big thank you to all those well wishers that sent gifts and messages to Lisa and I for our wedding on 2^nd August 2002. It was a great day out, made all the better by the wonderful weather and the company of good friends.

What does the rest of the year hold for us? As a club, there are likely to be changes to the committee with the imminent retirement of our long incumbent Chairman. He assures me that his retirement is only from the committee rather than from climbing. What about you? Fancy a go at a committee post? There will be a few vacancies this year for those who want to try it. Contact any committee member for details or be at the AGM in November.

Reports from the committee

The committee last met on 9^th July 2002 and the following matters are reported.

The guidebook is still plodding tortoise like toward it's destination. In fairness, this is a mammoth task and an unenviable one at that.

The hut is shaping up nicely with further money going toward improvements. (See Kim's letter).

The AGM will take place on 13^th November 2002 at Swansea. Any items members wish included on the agenda must be submitted to the club secretary by 9^th October 2002 for inclusion. The agenda will be published before 23^rd October 2002.

Other matters were discussed which will be reported upon as they develop.

The committee will next be meeting on 10^th October 2002

Letter from the barn warden

It's been pretty quiet over the summer and currently there are no outside bookings for the barn.

I am hoping to organise a work weekend in October with a provisional date of 19/20th. If you are prepared to come along, give me a shout. I am still on the look out for a vacuum cleaner of the cylinder variety, so if anyone has got one spare, could they get in touch. If the guy who contacted Nigel after the last request could get in touch with me again if it is still on offer, that would solve it.

There have been some cheques for odd sums which leads me suspect that not everybody realises prices went up in January. Member's rate is now £3.50 and non-member's is £5. Preferred way for Cardiff members to pay is to send me a cheque in the post, but if you have cash then you could hand it over when you return the key. The new keys are available from John Goodwin and Pete Bennett

kim.collis@ntlworld.co.uk 01792 527237 (0781 695 1220)

Just Arrived

Congrats to Peter & Rachana Bennett on the birth of Indiya Eisha Amber Bennett, who arrived on 9^th August 2002 weighing in at 6lbs 7oz. Everyone is healthy and glowing, just a little (very) tired now and again!!

Club Meetings

xxxxx

Put these dates in your diary today!

BMC Dates and Info.

(ACW Area committee for Wales)

Letters from members

Daupiné Diary

Stuart Lloyd

Tim Hoddy had for a while been touting the idea of a club trip to the Dauphiné Alps this summer, tantalising everyone with tales and pictures of last years trip. I was intrigued as it was an area that I had visited a couple of times for winter ice climbing trips and memories of the views of The Meije above La Grave had stayed with me for a long time. Tim is obviously an excellent salesman as we ended up with a tally of 17 enthusiastic climbers.

Our base for the trip was to be the campsite at Ailefroide, ideally situated for access to a number of mountain routes as well as cragging and multi-pitch climbs within walking distance of the campsite. The Durance Valley is also close by and offers more climbing opportunities as well as kayaking, rafting and windsurfing.

Jen and I arrived late on Saturday 27^th July and after some wandering about the sprawling campsite in the dark, we managed to find all those who had not already headed for the hills. Plans were quickly made for a leisurely days cragging the next day, followed by a few well needed beers. Anne, Ben, Alan and myself also made plans for a couple of warm up routes starting the following day and made the necessary bookings for the Glacier Blanc hut.

Sunday was spent at Sous La Fissure, one of the many "ecoles d'escalades" in the area and making preparations for the following day. Monday was spent walking up to the Glacier Blanc hut followed by the inevitable (for me anyway!) poor nights sleep and early start.

Our objective for Tuesday was Pic du Glacier d'Arsine (3,368m) by the NW ridge (F). It is one of the most accessible summits in the area and offers an easy mixed route, which was ideal to acclimatise and to give Anne, Ben and Alan a chance to practice some alpine skills. We opted for a late start (5am!) and were out of the hut by 6 making our way up the well worn track to The Glacier Blanc. The glacier turned out the be dry and shallow angled and presented no problems or dangers so we opted to forgoe rope and crampons making us much quicker, passing a number of parties on the way. By 9am we were on the summit enjoying fine views and a second breakfast. On the way down we stopped to practice crampon techniques, self arrest and snow/ice anchors. We returned to the hut and awaited the evening meal where Anne discovered the delights of being a vegetarian in a French alpine hut, omelettes! (By the end of the holiday her resolve was sorely tested as she started to dribble at the sight of cooked meet and snort BBQ smoke).

The following day we set off an hour earlier for Pic de Neige Cordier (3,613m) by the SW Flank and Ridge (F). The route is normally climbed from the Ecrin hut but we had chosen a slightly different variation. The weather didn't seem promising and a thick bank of cloud covered the sky. We decided to push on and see what happened as the route finding was straightforward. The route follows an easy snow slope up to a col where a short loose chimney provides some entertainment. From there a steepening couloir is followed to a brèche. We left crampons and sacks at the brèche and continued to the summit by scrambling up the rocky ridge. The weather was still not good but we did get intermittent glimpses of the valley far below.

We descended back down the route to the hut and from there back down to the campsite. During this time the weather closed in and it began to rain heavily. To add to this I had suffered with an upset stomach for the past couple of days and was starting to feel worse, until eventually I was vomiting and other unmentionables at the side of the path. Thankfully by this time we were well down the mountain and Anne and Ben helped me out by carrying my gear (thanks both). During our stay at the hut the warden had told us that there had been a large mudslide and the road out was closed so we all had our fingers crossed (I think my legs as well!) that the road would be open. Fortunately it had, and as we drove back down the winding road we marvelled at the devastation caused by the mudslide, which had cut a path straight down the hill, crushing trees and anything else in its path.

Once back at the campsite I took to my bed and everyone else went to the bar. The weather had really closed in by now with the forecasts proving to be inaccurate or non existent (they seemed to adopt a policy of putting it up for 10 minutes in the morning and if it was too bad they took it down and didn't put another one up for 2 days). It seemed that a big low was sitting over the Alps and no one knew which way it would move. After a days recovery I was still not feeling well so declined to join Dave, Tim, Kim, Gareth, Kath, Anne, Ben and Alan on a multi-day trip to climb Pic Nord des Cavales by the South Ridge (PD) returning via the col des Ecrin (PD). I needed another days rest and toyed with the idea of joining Steve, Chris, Neil and Rees. They were off to climb Pointe Louise (3,668m) by the SE Ridge (AD) followed by The Barre des Ecrin.

After a further days recuperation I felt fine and headed off to join in on an attempt on The Barre (4,101m) by the N Face and W Ridge (PD). First of all I had to get myself up to the Ecrin hut and Jen had decided to walk up part of the way with me. We set off in sunshine but after an hour or so were hit by a hail storm, so Jen turned back not having brought any wet weather gear. I carried on and after a while the storm passed and by this time I was on the glacier approaching the Ecrin hut. For a change no one else was in my sight and the glacier and the cirque formed by the mountains seemed to expand into a vast and intimidating landscape. For a short while I enjoyed the feeling of being an insubstantial, transient part of the mountain.

On the steep walk up to the hut I met with Chris and we entered the hut together just in time to receive a welcome brew from Rees. The hut was supposed to be full tonight and we were unsure if they had any places. We had all brought minimal bivi gear and none of us were relishing the prospect of using it as the weather did not look good. Luckily the poor forecast had put enough people off and we found beds for the night.

At 3:30 the next morning we got up, not sure whether we would be heading back to bed as a vicious storm had raged all night. It didn't look promising. The wind was still strong and there were a lot of dark clouds. Still we thought we'd give it a go and we were soon heading across the glacier. We followed the line up the N Face to a height of c 3,600m, by then the wind had really got up and we were in a blizzard with a lot of fresh snow falling to cover our tracks. It all seemed hopeless as our route followed a ridge line which would be almost impossible in the wind. We decided to head down and after a beer and some rest headed off for an evening's craging.

The next day Neil and myself planned to do a multi-pitch route on the Paroi de Palavar called Palavar les Flots (D-, 400m, V+ max). We'd decided on an early start and were rewarded by having only one party in front of us. Shortly after we arrived so did hoards of Italians! The route follows an arête and enjoys excellent positions with the climbing being on solid golden granite. Neil set off up the first pitch and I led the next as we struggled to warm up. Eventually we slipped in to a fluid rhythm and the climbing seemed to become almost effortless due to it's slabby nature and ample bolts. We climbed on and after 3 hours and 12 pitches we were at the top enjoying the views. We abseiled down, encountering Chris and Rees who had set off later and were enjoying climbing La Vie Devant Soi (TD+, 350m Vlb max). After 5 abseils and a grapple with cable to get down a gully we were at the bottom, enjoying a cigarette and feeling very pleased with ourselves.

We strolled back to the campsite in the sunshine and sipped a well-earned cold beer. Half an hour later it was raining and big black clouds were threatening. We knew that Chris and Neil were still on the route so we got out the binoculars and looked for them. We were sure that we could see Chris in his canary yellow waterproof and followed him as they valiantly made their way to the top. Only later did we discover that it wasn't Chris, as they didn't have any waterproofs with them. They did however make it to the top incognito.

The storm really started to set in with thunder and lightening in rapid succession all around. Steve was determined to go ahead with the BBQ he had planned and set up a shelter in the best traditions of SWMC and stunned everyone with his garlic bread.

Monday morning and we said our goodbyes to all those who were leaving and headed off down the Durance valley for a bit of R&R.

Dave and Kath had decided to head up to the mountains in search of an illusive first peak having not got to the top of Pic Nord due to poor weather. Jo, Al, Tim and myself decided to have a crack at another route on the Palavar. The route we chose was Les Prédateurs (TD-, 300m, Vla max) which takes a line up a large pillar.

After a fairly late start we joined the queue at the bottom of our route and had no choice but to bask in the sun while waiting our turn. After what seemed like an age we were off with Al and Jo heading off first, followed by myself and Tim. The first pitch came as a bit of a shock after the relaxed climbing we'd previously had. It felt precarious and the bolts seemed a very long way apart! I was very glad to arrive at the first hanging belay and to enjoy the relative rest of seconding the next pitch. We climbed on, making slow progress as we constantly had to wait at belays. The climbing felt harder and more serious than we had previously experienced and was sustained. The bolts never got any closer together and I was glad I had brought a few cams and slings as these proved very useful later on.

Tim made light work of the crux Vla pitch, as did Jo. We eventually made it to the top. It was now getting quite late and cold due to the cloud cover that had developed. Al and Jo had been delayed by the parties in front on the abseil and we waited patiently for them to pull their ropes. Eventually they did and we set up ours. I tied a reef with two fisherman's either side against Tim's preference for an overhand knot (euro death knot as he calls it, which I think put me off). I was soon to regret this as we tried to pull the rope and it became stuck. After I climbed 40 odd metres, prusiking up the rope, a friendly French face appeared over the top and offered to free the stuck rope. Merci buckets. I abed back down to Tim and we pulled the rope with the help of our French friend. This time the knot came down but the free end of the rope got tangled and stuck again! Obviously we'd upset someone. We were helped out again (merci buckets encore) and for the rest of the four abs paid special attention to making sure the rope pulled by tying an overhand knot and pulling the knot past any obstacles as we abed. We eventually got down safely and didn't quite have to break out the head torch, which I guess doesn't qualify it as an epic. Within an hour of our return another thunderstorm had already hit and we were glad to be in the tent enjoying an indoor BBQ courtesy of Jen.

The weather had turned very grim by now and Tim and Anne had decided to return to sunny Swansea, so Jo and myself dropped them off in Briançon and grabbed a few hours climbing at Roche Baron. After that Dave, Kath and Jen headed to Nice for a few days and Al, Jo, Lisa and I planned to see what tomorrow would bring. Inevitably it brought rain so we decided to head for Provence in the hope of some sun. Our chosen destination was Orpierre, as Jo had been before and recommended it.

We packed up miserably in Ailefroide in the rain and arrived happily in Orpierre to a sun baked landscape we were sure could not exist and seemed like another planet.

We climbed here and in Sigottier for the remainder of the holiday enjoying numerous routes and bumping in to loads of people who had been at the Ailefroide campsite, as well as many refugees from Chamonix and The Valais. The rock here is limestone and is very well bolted. There are routes of all types from easy slabs to hard slabs, steep and juggy, overhanging??.you name it, with plenty of climbing at every standard.

What a refreshing change when your only problem is that it's too hot to climb in the day so you have to hide in the pool until the cool evening rock comes alive!

Thanks to everyone for their splendid company and for sharing many enjoyable hours of climbing. For me this represented all that is good about club trips of this nature where there is ample opportunity to partake in many activities at many different levels: we climbed high mountains, clipped bolts on single and multi-pitch routes, went rafting, walked up mountains and through valleys and meadows, climbed via ferrata, basked in the sun and socialised, a lot! It gave the opportunity for personal challenge, to learn from others experience and to pass on skills and knowledge and all return home safely. All in all a thoroughly good trip! Thanks Tim for organising. Where to next?

Stuart Lloyd

Mark Davies has some gear for sale, details on www.pfj-clan.co.uk/sale.htm

Remember me?

Hi to all who know me from Kelvin Davies.

Just a quick note to see if there is any one who remembers me after all this time. I'm currently residing in Kuala Lumpur with no plans to return to Britain. Had a few visitors from the SWMC (Richard Partridge and Bob Thomas), but out here there is little local climbing. Locally there are only hard sports routes, but for long weekends I can make Krabbi. All in all, as those who know me will remember, I'm climbing as little I used to, but getting in some good drinking.

A big passion remains cars, I've just had a Lotus Eleven built to my spec with an Esprit engine, (0-60 in sub 4 seconds, perhaps Don Hillman would like a try?) I'm also now into big bikes, taking regular trips to Krabbi on my Kawasaki. Climbing is really safe in comparison with the drive up across Thailand, much as it was in the old days driving to the Barn. The most vertical lift I get these days is at work as I'm in the Petronas Twin Towers, the worlds tallest building.

Anyway my email address is utsia@Maxis.net.my, and I'd be pleased to hear from any club member, whether you can remember me or not.

One Club Meet 2002

Gwyn Evans and Stuart Lloyd

Present:

Gwyn Evans (Swansea) Chairman

Gary Lewis (Cardiff) Organiser

Benedict Cordier (Cardiff via Pontarlier) French rep

John Custance (Cardiff via everywhere) English rep

Stuart Lloyd (Cardiff via Shropshire) English rep

Mike Cives (Cardiff via Adelaide) Oz rep

Apologies:

Haydn Griffiths "He's got to decorate my bedroom" Hannah Griffiths

Anne Pitman "It's my parents' 40^th wedding anniversary and it's my birthday and the weather forecast is crap but I REALLY want to go to Mid Wales".

Tom Palfreyman "Only if the weather forecast is good"

Dave Steele "I'm on duty"

Nigel Lewis "I've got to work and a wedding to go to. The weather forecast isn't too good, but that would never bother me!"

Pete Bennett "Got to take the new baby to see it's grandparents"

Kath Colling "I've just started a new job and I'm too conscientious to take a weekend away after just two days in post".

Dave Griffiths "If Kath isn't going then I'm not!"

So the meeting convened at the Red Lion in Dinas Mawddwy at 10pm as ordained by the meet leader. Two pints of Bass later we set off for Bryn Golau (Solihull Mountaineering Club's hut). The meet leader had intended to book Bryn Hafod, the Mountain Club of Stafford's hut directly below Craig Cywarch but got his directions wrong. However as Bryn Golau is only about ¼ mile away from the pub his error was soon forgiven.

We couldn't get the electric light to work but soon decided that gas light was far more romantic.

Saturday morning dawned with a steady drumming on the roof and a thumping on the windows. The sound of all that running water was too much for the Organiser's frail bladder. He returned to the dorm to announce that a crow was demanding entry by pecking the windows! A little later the Oz contingent arrived and we were all awake.

Eventually we arose and greeted a grey morning. Hey! What the heck the weather forecast says we'll have sun and showers. So where was it to be, Pencoed Pillar, Cyfrwy, Craig Cywarch? "Loads of vegetation", "Long walk", "Quite close and a Classic Rock tick" decided us on the Classic rock tick.

Unfortunately the Chairman's map memory is minimal so we took the first turning when it should have been the second. Eventually we got to the car park and could see the crags and the huntsmen. Try explaining to an Ozzie and a French girl that it just isn't done to shoot a fox ( "I know it's the obvious thing to do but it just isn't done").

Paul Williams' guide was sufficient, the route was obvious just zig zag up the hillside until below the crags and traverse until between the two plantations, the route starts there. Well we zigzagged up the hillside amidst cries of "Zere is too much, 'ow you say, ?.. vegetable, in France we strip it off" and other more Anglo Saxon comments about the route being taken.

The guide was sufficient to get us to the start, even if found lacking in the accuracy of its walk-in times. Gwyn and Stuart had bravely talked of doing a VS until they set foot on the rock and decided that the Classic Rock tick was going to more than satisfy their desire for adventure on this vertical ice rink. What started as three parties of two quickly became two parties of three as Benedict demanded to know "ze name of zis hold". It was Heather.

The clean holds seemed to get lost on the second pitch and a variety of ways were taken to the tree stance, an overhanging chimney and a delicate stride around a rib both being ascended and reckoned not to be "hard V Diff".

The last pitch raised its head and was most pleasant, except for Benedict and Mike who had to follow after a sharp shower.

Because we are the South Wales MOUNTAINEERING Club we had taken our sacks with us on this little foray and so had the joy of slipping and sliding down the gully back to exactly the point from which we had set off!

The path was far more obvious on the way back but John entertained us all by falling into holes and kicking his legs in the air until righted by Stuart.

The meeting reconvened in the bar of the Red Lion over huge carnivorous portions and pints of Bass. Pontypridd were beating Newport and the weather forecast on the telly showed even more big black clouds and rain drops.

Sunday morning, clean up and off to Tremadog where we know the rock is clean and friendly. Not only that it was roasting, t-shirt weather.

Gwyn and Stuart headed off to Pant Ifan with John and Mike. The latter were pointed at Poor Man's Peutery while Gwyn pointed Stuart at Scratch Arete. At the bottom a passing ancient commented that he had never owned as much gear as Stuart had already placed in leading the first half of the first pitch! To make up for this Gwyn gave Stuart a fine display of aerial acrobatics on pitch two as he dived off the overlap did a mid air spin and followed gravity in a position any base jumper would be proud of. Something about needing to test the integrity of the peg which looked just like the one that was there 30 years ago when last he did the route. Having satisfied himself that the peg was sound Gwyn then stormed through the overlap and to the top. Grim Wall then followed while Gary showed Benedict the Fang and One Step in the Clouds.

Resolution - there's a lot to be said for not listening to the weather forecast and going for it. Next time there's a One club Meet come along regardless, we had a great time.

Get Well Soon

Best wishes to Huw Rees who fell quite ill during a trip to France earlier this year. Speedy recovery Huw.

Coming soon

The next newsletter will be published in December 2002. Already there is a cracking account of a daring ascent of Kilimanjaro waiting for inclusion.

Please submit YOUR items, requests or pictures by 1^st December to

n.and.l@ntlworld.com

All submissions will be considered for publication and almost definitely printed.

Remember, the submission date means the date for inclusion in the next newsletter. Any item can be sent to me at any time for future publication.