South Wales Mountaineering Club

Clwb Dringo De Cymru

www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk

Newsletter, September 2001

Notes from the editor

Doesn't time fly when your having fun! This year I have been lucky enough to get a few trips abroad, "rediscovered" Pembroke as a climbing venue, renewed old acquaintances, made new friends and got engaged. The barn has come of age and is in the best shape it's ever been. Also, this is the fourth time you've been subjected to "Notes" from this particular editor, which means nearly a whole year has passed since I was elected to the committee.

Are you happy with the way the club is being run on your behalf? Would you like to be more involved? Why not attend the AGM this year. Don't stop there, what about a place on the committee? Where do you see the club going and will you be helping to drive it?

Never been to the club dinner? Like to try it? Contact any committee member who will try to get you a "lift share" and possibly blag you some floor space if you want. Members past, present and future are all welcome. Party!

Reports from the committee

The committee last met on the 21^st August 2001 and the following items are reported.

The position with the new guidebook hasn't really changed. Progress is being made, albeit slowly.

Projects at the hut were discussed. See Kim's letter later and "Chairman's Flush" in Club Meets.

When sending cheques to the club paying for a number of items, e.g. for new membership and hut fees at the same time, can you please show a break down on the rear of the cheque as to what money is for what reason. This will make several peoples lives much easier.

At the last AGM Jo Morley agreed to be the Club Treasurer but advised us she was planning to leave the country.  When she didn't, the Committee was mightily relieved!  Then, at the last committee meeting, she announced that she was definitely off to New Zealand via the South Pacific and other such exotic places.  Having checked all the bank balances are still healthy we've had to wish her farewell and hope she remembers us when the sun is shining on Christmas Day.  All the best Jo.

A "stand in" treasurer will be appointed until the AGM when a new treasurer will be elected.

The forthcoming AGM was discussed at length and is the subject of a separate item later in this issue.

Other matters were discussed which will be reported upon as they develop.

The committee will next be meeting on Tuesday 16^th October 2001

Letter from the barn warden

Well, the barn works are now more or less completed. What we have now are two internal toilets in the room by the drying room. The washroom has been divided into male and female washrooms, each with a gas shower and washbasin or basins. The kitchen has a proper worktop and cupboards for crockery and cutlery. While it is in no way finished, the whole barn looks a bit more presentable

On the weekend of 21-23 September, the new toilets are going to be officially inaugurated by our chairman, Gwyn. The precise details of the ceremony are still under wraps, but there should also be some climbing to be had and/or drinking. Everybody is very welcome. If you can't make it that weekend, make a visit some other time and marvel at the changes.

I am still after the following: spare cutlery, a coffee table, board games, books etc, photographs of club members preferably embarrassing (who has got the pictures of Ian's first drag ascent at WICC?). Also, if you are willing to give up some time to help out, please contact me on 01792 527237 or kim.collis@ntlworld.co.uk.

If you do go up, it would make it a lot easier if one person could send me a cheque or pass on the cash for the whole group, rather than a bundle of cheques from different people. (Cheques made out to South Wales Mountaineering Club)

Kim Collis

Note from Editor. Cardiff members who want to display photos at the hut can pass them onto Pete Bennett.

Notice of Annual General Meeting

The Annual General Meeting of the club will be held at Llandaf Rugby Club, Cardiff, at 1930hrs, Wednesday 14^th November 2001. In accordance with the clubs constitution, items for discussion must be submitted for inclusion on the agenda, which will then be published. Please forward any items for inclusion to Pete Bennett, the club secretary, by 2^nd October 2001.

Annual Dinner

The Swansea side of the club will host this year's annual dinner.

The sumptuous venue on this occasion is Sketty Hall, Swansea with it's patios and gardens to admire from the bar.

We will meet 1900 for 1930hrs, Saturday, 17^th November 2001. Previous Club Dinners have involved Pirates, Firemen, stories that may or may not be true and guest speakers who could melt the frostiest of audiences.

The menu is shown and everyone is asked to contact their membership sec. with his or her choices by 5^th November at the latest. (So that you don't forget, the committee has arranged for large beacons and fireworks to be lit across the country on this day.)

Swansea members are asked to consider allocating floor or garage space to wise members from the East. (It's traditional for the Chairman to allow all committee members and their party full board, lodging and unlimited access to the spirit cabinet.)

Any member who is in contact with past members of the club is requested to pass details of the Annual Dinner on to them. All are welcome to attend.

Those that are willing and able are welcome to join the Chairman and his band of hardy souls for climbing or other adventures the following day.

Starter

Welsh Cheese Terrine with tomato chutney

Minestrone soup with Parmesan cheese

Main Course

Noisettes of Lamb with redcurrants and rosemary jus

Fillet of Salmon with sole and pistachio mousse

Baked Courgette and Corn

(Courgette and Corn bound in Cheese Sauce, baked with herb crust)

Dessert

Poached Pears

Profiteroles and chocolate sauce

Coffee/tea and mints

Choice of Wines from Europe and the New World

Price £20.00 per head includes table wine.

Bar until 11:45pm and DJ until you drop.

Club Meetings

The "one club" meeting, which was to be held in Mid Wales during September, has been postponed. Don't despair, the "Chairman's flush" will take place instead. Be dazzled by the modern wonder of indoor toilets at the club hut! This could also be your last chance to say goodbye to Jo Morley before she leaves for distant shores.

An Introductory Day for leading on Sandstone will take place on Saturday 29^th September 2001. See the attached flyer at the end of this newsletter for full details.

Cardiff slide shows will start at Llandaff Rugby Club on Wednesday 26^th September 2001. Please make an effort to attend as Dave Parsons wishes to discuss with interested parties whether subsequent slide shows will continue to take place on the last Wednesday of every month. Swansea members are particularly welcome. Dave can be contacted on 029 20573440

Swansea Pub meets will revert to the winter venue, the Rhyddings, Brynmill, starting from 21:30 Wednesday 5^th September 2001. There will be a slide show every third month. Naturally, Swansea die-hards will continue to meet at 17:30 at the Gower Inn to catch the final few hours of daylight, before joining the rest at the Rhyddings. Cardiff members are particularly welcome to attend.

(Get?) Keep Fit freaks from Swansea. WICC on Friday evenings. Contact Chris Wyatt 521228 for travel arrangements. Cardiff members, see you there.

Put these dates in your diary today!

BMC Dates and Info.

The Role of BMC Local Access Reps.

Regular readers will remember that there has been some discussion in previous newsletters as to who is the Local Access Rep for the BMC and more importantly, what do they do? Well, John Custance is the rep, and here, from the Horses Mouth, is his role.

The BMC responds to access issues through its volunteer Local Access Reps. (LAR).

The primary function is one of local contactability. Both land owners/users and climbers have one common point through which they can deal with potential access problems before they become a bigger issue.

The LAR provides a direct link with its BMC Area Committee, ensuring a free-flow of information between.

At a local level, access problems are usually under the direction of the Area committee, co-ordinated through the local BMC Access Rep.

Access Reps. keep the BMC National Office informed of all developments and copy any key documents in writing to them.

If an access problem is reported directly to the BMC National Office then this information will be forwarded to the relevant Access Rep. for action a.s.a.p.

Access Reps are encouraged to keep records of all access meetings etc. to which they may be party.

Taff's Well

An access report from John Custance

The following is the present position on Taff's Well:

During April, at the time this blew up, The BMC presented the Forest Enterprises (F.E.) land agent with its understanding of the access and liability at this crag. No reply has been made to the BMC from F.E. to this date. (14/08/01).

An application for an access request was also presented to F.E. with copies to the BMC and Secretary SWMC. The letter read as follows;

APPLICATION FOR CLIMBING ACCESS TO THE TAFFS WELL CRAG (Dated 28 April 2001)

As agreed at the meeting held on 26 April last, at the Taff's Well Crag, would you be good enough to review and then process this application through the Countryside Council for Wales. *

"The sport of Rock Climbing has been enjoyed at Taff's Well for over forty years. The crag is normally only used by individual pairs of climbers, it is not suitable for use by Outdoor Pursuits Groups. The greater majority of the climbs are at Extreme grade. The number of climbers estimated to use the crag is well under 100 per annum. On the easier climbs no traces of rock erosion through climbing are visible, even with binoculars. Access to the bottom of the crag is on foot from the roundabout under Castell Coch. Walk off from the top of the crag is south towards Castell Coch and then skirting the quarry down to the forestry track.

With regard to the nesting of peregrine falcons or other protected species. This would be managed by BMC Policy in the normal way, that is, the BMC supports seasonal restrictions for Schedule 1 Listed Species (e.g. Peregrine and Chough).

We will be asking the South Wales Mountaineering Club, who publish the guide book which covers Taff's Well, to include the following in the next issue: "The geological nature of the crag: Devonian - Carboniferous boundary and the beech woodlands with its flora above are both SSSI and SAC. Bird nesting restrictions may apply, see the climbing press and web sites".

It will be additionally requested that any new Guide Book explain, in an introduction, what SSSI and SAC are, how nesting restriction information can be obtained, which web sites there are and the availability/names of climbing press.

We therefore request that climbing should be allowed to resume "at the status quo", that is 365 days a year. Nesting restrictions, if any, to apply"

* The Countryside Council for Wales is the body that oversee SSSI and SAC and grant final access permission.

I am only too pleased to assist in any queries you may have in access problems.

Good climbing,

John Custance

BMC Access Rep. S.E. Wales.

Letters from members

Do you remember this comment in June's newsletter?

Note from Editor Can anyone come up with a story from Skye that doesn't involve loads of rain?

Dear Editor 

You challenged us to come up with a story of a trip to Skye that doesn't
involve loads of rain. I've been to Skye three times in all. On two of those
three occasions the conditions were pretty much as Guy described in his
article and resulted in much less being done than seems to have been
achieved by the Swansea group. However, on the third occasion the May
sunshine was so intense that I got sunburnt and skinny-dipping in the burns
was a pleasure at the end of a hard days climb. OK so we did experience a
snow shower on Sgurr Dearg, but no rain.
 John Goodwin

Skye, Where men are men and everyone is wet!!

Coming soon

The next newsletter will be published in December 2001. Please submit any items, requests or pictures by 1^st December to n.and.l@ntlworld.com

All submissions will be considered for publication and almost definitely printed.

Remember, the submission date means the date for inclusion in the next newsletter. Any item can be sent to me at any time for future publication.

INTRODUCTORY ROCK CLIMBING DAY

FOR PEOPLE THAT HAVE SOME INDOOR

CLIMBING WALL EXPERIENCE AND

WOULD LIKE TO MOVE OUTDOORS.

ALL ARE WELCOME, NO AGE LIMITS

29/09/01 (Saturday) on local SANDSTONE CRAGS

From 10.00am until 6.00pm (there will be no charge, although we would prefer that you joined one of our climbing clubs, which ever is most suitable for you, we can give advice. (This provides some basic insurance cover)

Experienced climbers from the South Wales Mountaineering Club, The WICC at Trelewis, The Warehouse Climbing Wall in Gloucester and the BMC have teamed up to provide an interesting next step event.

We will aim to provide a TWO to ONE ratio on this day

Booking in advance will be required.

We will try to tailor the day to fit your requirements

We will cover the following safety items.

• Using Guidebooks.

• Caring for our climbing areas

• Basic Rope work. (double ropes)

• Belays (placing natural protection)

• Climbing safely

• Abseiling safely

If you would like to join us on this day please call

Gary Lewis in Cardiff (02920 214677 evenings only)

Mandy at The Warehouse (01452 302351)

Tracy at WICC (01443 710749),

Chris Wyatt in Swansea (01792 521228),

Anne Arran at the BMC (0161 4454747)

We will make a list of all interested and call you back

with full details before the event.

The day will start from WICC at 10am

We will share transport if required and provide safety equipment.

If you have your own gear all the better, let us know what you have so that we can acquire the rest.

ALL EXPERENCED LEADERS WHO WOULD BE PREPARED TO HELP OUT ON THIS DAY PLEASE CALL US

(You should know The Gap, Navigation and Penallta crags well)