SWMC Guidebook - Recent changes [en]

User:Genytrer4h7

2012-05-17T22:55:55Z

New user account

Gower

2012-05-17T22:43:14Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:43, 17 May 2012
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	***[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#East_Wall\|East Wall]]		***[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#East_Wall\|East Wall]]
	***[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#Scoop_Corner\|Scoop Corner]]		***[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#Scoop_Corner\|Scoop Corner]]
		+	**[[Pobbles Quarries\|Pobbles Quarries]]

	*'''[[Shire Combe To Watch House East]]''' [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png]] [[Image:Lock-open.png\|link=]]		*'''[[Shire Combe To Watch House East]]''' [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png]] [[Image:Lock-open.png\|link=]]

File:Pobbles top quarry top2.jpg

2012-05-17T21:37:55Z

uploaded a new version of "[[File:Pobbles top quarry top2.jpg]]"

Pobbles Quarries

2012-05-17T18:14:49Z

THE ROUTES:

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:14, 17 May 2012
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	== PREAMBLE ==		== PREAMBLE ==
-	A ~~shortish~~ slab in a disused quarry above Pobbles Beach	+	A 20 metre slab in a disused quarry above Pobbles Beach. A sheltered evening sun trap.

	== ACCESS ==		== ACCESS ==
-	Approach is quickest from Southgate NT Car Park	+	Approach is quickest from Southgate NT Car Park. Take the track from the car park towards [[Three Cliffs]] a short way before you would start to descend to the beach, the cliff edge turns northwards. At this point, facing due south is the slab of the main quarry. Easily seen from the cliff edge.
		+
		+	Descend fairly steeply down the east side of the quarry past a pinnacle and then traverse around rightwards to the quarry.

	== DESCENTS ==		== DESCENTS ==
Line 25:		Line 27:
	Climb onto a hollow flake and then, following the flake upwards and slightly leftwards, then take a direct line to the top.		Climb onto a hollow flake and then, following the flake upwards and slightly leftwards, then take a direct line to the top.

-	M. Winder, J. Hoskins, A. N. Other 16-05-12	+	''M. Winder, J. Hoskins, A. N. Other 16-05-12
		+	''

Template:Googlemap

2012-05-17T17:43:17Z

Three Cliffs And Pobbles Bays:

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	~[[Three Cliffs And Pobbles Bays#Pobbles Bay\|Pobbles Bay East]]		~[[Three Cliffs And Pobbles Bays#Pobbles Bay\|Pobbles Bay East]]
	~51.567420, -4.104268		~51.567420, -4.104268
		+	~File:Orange.png;
		+
		+	51.567037, -4.102638
		+	~[[Pobbles Quarries\|Pobbles Quarries (Upper Quarry)]]
		+	~51.567037, -4.102638
	~File:Orange.png;		~File:Orange.png;

	<noinclude>		<noinclude>
		+
	===Shire Combe To Watch House East===		===Shire Combe To Watch House East===
	</noinclude>		</noinclude>

File:Pobbles top quarry top2.jpg

2012-05-17T17:20:27Z

uploaded a new version of "[[File:Pobbles top quarry top2.jpg]]"

Pobbles Quarries

2012-05-17T12:08:02Z

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-	Pobbles ~~Quarry~~	+	[[Image:Pobbles top quarry top2.jpg\|700px\|right\|thumb]]
		+	'''[[Contents]]'''
		+
		+	'''[[Gower]]'''
		+
		+	== TIDAL STATUS ==
		+	Non-tidal.
		+
		+	== BOLTING POLICY ==
		+	Discussions to start.
		+
		+	== PREAMBLE ==
		+	A shortish slab in a disused quarry above Pobbles Beach
		+
		+	== ACCESS ==
		+	Approach is quickest from Southgate NT Car Park
		+
		+	== DESCENTS ==
		+	Scramble down at various points.
		+
		+	== THE ROUTES ==
		+
		+	1. '''Pigeon''' 20m VDiff
		+
		+	Climb onto a hollow flake and then, following the flake upwards and slightly leftwards, then take a direct line to the top.
		+
		+	M. Winder, J. Hoskins, A. N. Other 16-05-12

File:Pobbles top quarry top2.jpg

2012-05-17T12:06:15Z

uploaded "[[File:Pobbles top quarry top2.jpg]]"

Pobbles Quarry

2012-05-17T11:59:49Z

moved [[Pobbles Quarry]] to [[Pobbles Quarries]]

Pobbles Quarry

2012-05-17T06:19:13Z

Created page with "Pobbles Quarry"

New page

Pobbles Quarry

Tor Gro

2012-05-16T15:12:52Z

ACCESS:

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	== ACCESS ==		== ACCESS ==
		+	The approach to all of the routes listed at this series of slabs involve some bush-whacking through sometimes dense undergrowth. You can get a good overview of the layout of the crag by wandering out 50 metres or so (if the tide permits) onto the salt marsh.

-	Park at the small car park at Llandimore (465930) and follow the track along the base of the escarpment for about 500 metres. ~~You can get a good overview of the layout of the crag by wandering out 50 metres or so (if the tide permits) onto the salt marsh.~~	+	Park at the small car park at Llandimore (465930) and follow the track along the base of the escarpment for about 500 metres.
-		+
-	~~The approach to all of the routes listed at this series of slabs involve some bush-whacking through sometimes dense undergrowth.~~	+

	You can reach '''Main Slab''' by taking the grassy bank after 500 metres and then scramble up and rightwards through undergrowth and along sheep tracks to the bottom of the slab.		You can reach '''Main Slab''' by taking the grassy bank after 500 metres and then scramble up and rightwards through undergrowth and along sheep tracks to the bottom of the slab.

Gelli

2012-05-16T14:13:36Z

THE ROUTES:

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:13, 16 May 2012
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	#'''Cigarillo Fr 6b+ *'''<br>Wall to right then grassy slope to shared belay.9m.<br><br>		#'''Cigarillo Fr 6b+ *'''<br>Wall to right then grassy slope to shared belay.9m.<br><br>
	#'''Down Under-VS 4c'''<br>Green slab stepping R to finish up arete.15m.<br><br>''The next wall is set back and and above the quarry floor''<br><br>		#'''Down Under-VS 4c'''<br>Green slab stepping R to finish up arete.15m.<br><br>''The next wall is set back and and above the quarry floor''<br><br>
		+	#'''All Talk Fr 6a'''<br>The left side of the wall aiming for the short crack,make a trying move up using a finger jamb then step right to shared belay.15m.<br><br>
		+	#'''Talking Hoarse Fr 5'''<br> Gain and follow the faint groove.15m.<br><br>
	#'''Little Taff Fr-6a * '''<br>Thin crack on the left side of wall,belay above small strip roof.12m.<br><br>		#'''Little Taff Fr-6a * '''<br>Thin crack on the left side of wall,belay above small strip roof.12m.<br><br>
	#'''A Little Something I Prepared Earlier Fr 6a **'''<br>Wall to right immediately left of grassy gully,double "twizzle" belay.12m.<br><br>		#'''A Little Something I Prepared Earlier Fr 6a **'''<br>Wall to right immediately left of grassy gully,double "twizzle" belay.12m.<br><br>

Taf Fechan

2012-05-16T14:04:26Z

THE ROUTES:

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	GR062105		GR062105
	By Ren Hoek		By Ren Hoek
-	BOLTING POLICY: No bolting.	+	===BOLTING POLICY=== No bolting.Review???
-	PREAMBLE	+
		+	===PREAMBLE===
	Taf Fechan is one of several quarries situated to the South and East of Taf Fechan reservoir, 2½ miles north of Merthyr		Taf Fechan is one of several quarries situated to the South and East of Taf Fechan reservoir, 2½ miles north of Merthyr
	Tydfil. The rock is carboniferous limestone that has been quarried, the upper part is weathered and there is a lot of		Tydfil. The rock is carboniferous limestone that has been quarried, the upper part is weathered and there is a lot of
	loose rock on the ledges.		loose rock on the ledges.
-	ACCESS	+
		+	===ACCESS===
	From A4060/A465 roundabout at Dowlais Top take the minor exit (A4102) to Dowlais (westward). Follow the road to		From A4060/A465 roundabout at Dowlais Top take the minor exit (A4102) to Dowlais (westward). Follow the road to
	a roundabout, turning right and then take the right fork where the road splits under the A465 flyover. Follow this for 1		a roundabout, turning right and then take the right fork where the road splits under the A465 flyover. Follow this for 1
Line 12:		Line 14:
	opposite a charred telegraph pole. Climb the steep bank behind the telegraph pole to cross over the railway line and		opposite a charred telegraph pole. Climb the steep bank behind the telegraph pole to cross over the railway line and
	find the quarry.		find the quarry.
-	DESCENTS: By abseil.	+	===DESCENTS=== By abseil.
-	THE ROUTES	+	===THE ROUTES===
-	1. Metalworks 18m HVS,5a	+	#'''Metalworks 18m HVS,5a'''<br>The second thin crack of the wall. Climb over overhangs and follow a thin crack above to a ledge and a tree.A.Williams, P.Leyshon 2pt 00.00.1968FFA Unknown Pre-1991<br><br>
-	The second thin crack of the wall. Climb over overhangs and follow a thin crack above to a ledge and a tree.	+	#'''Take Off 18m D'''<br>Start 6m right of a water spout. Climb to a ledge, traverse left on loose rock past a tree to belay.D.Ellis, C.Taylor 00.00.1967<br><br>
-	A.Williams, P.Leyshon 2pt 00.00.~~1968~~	+	#'''Monument To Insanitary 21m VD'''<br>Climb a short wall to a chimney, follow this to a ledge, then climb up right and scramble to a tree belay.
-	~~FFA~~ Unknown Pre-1991	+	D.Ellis, J.Parry 00.00.1967<br><br>
-	2. Take Off 18m D	+	#'''Anthrax 30m VD'''<br>Start 2m right of the chimney. Climb the wall left of a small overhang, then step right to a groove. Climb this and
-	Start 6m right of a water spout. Climb to a ledge, traverse left on loose rock past a tree to belay.	+	the steep groove above on the right, finish up loose rock to a tree belay.D.Ellis, P.Leyshon 00.00.1967<br><br>
-	D.Ellis, C.Taylor 00.00.1967	+	#'''Thunder Crack 30m VS,4b'''<br>Start in the corner right of the chimney. Climb right to the foot of two cracks which join at the bottom. Follow the
-	3. Monument To Insanitary 21m VD	+	left-hand crack to a grass ledge, then scramble to a tree belay.D.Ellis, P.Leyshon, P.Minett 00.00.1967<br><br>
-	Climb a short wall to a chimney, follow this to a ledge, then climb up right and scramble to a tree belay.	+	#'''Lightning Crack 30m VS,4b'''<br>Start right of Thunder Crack and climb the right-hand crack. Move left and scramble to a tree belay.P.Watkin, D.Parsons 00.00.1967<br><br>
-	D.Ellis, J.Parry 00.00.1967	+	#'''The Godforsaken Gash 15m E2,5c'''<br>Start right of Lightning Crack. Climb a ramp to a ledge, follow a thin crack and pull up left to a rightward slantingcrack, PR. Climb to a ledge and abseil off a tree.M.Crocker, R.Thomas, M.Ward 31.12.1986<br><br>
-	4. Anthrax 30m VD	+	''Next are four corners.''
-	Start 2m right of the chimney. Climb the wall left of a small overhang, then step right to a groove. Climb this and	+	#'''Thorny Problem 19m S'''<br>The left-hand corner. Exit leftward.P.Leyshon, D.Ellis, M.Berry 00.00.1967<br><br>
-	the steep groove above on the right, finish up loose rock to a tree belay.	+	#'''Renaissance 18m E2,5b'''<br>This takes the left arete of Trilogy. Climb the awkward arete to a ledge, then move up the right side of the arete
-	D.Ellis, P.Leyshon 00.00.1967	+	to a horizontal crack. Continue up the left side of the arete. Belay at a tree on the left.M.Crocker, M.Ward 27.12.1986<br><br>
-	5. Thunder Crack 30m VS,4b	+	#'''Trilogy 20m HVS,4c'''The second of the four corners. Climb to an overhang and traverse left to a tree belay.C.Jones, D.Parsons 1pt 00.00.1967FFA Unknown Pre-1991<br><br>
-	Start in the corner right of the chimney. Climb right to the foot of two cracks which join at the bottom. Follow the	+	#'''Get A Load Of This 21m E4,6a'''<br>The right arete of Trilogy. Start below Trilogy, scramble up to a ledge and climb the smooth arete, PR, to a small ledge, then another ledge to exit left above the final step of the arete.M.Crocker, M.Ward 27.12.1986<br><br>
-	left-hand crack to a grass ledge, then scramble to a tree belay.	+	#'''Eulogy 36m VS,4b'''<br>The third corner.C.Jones, D.Parsons 00.00.1967<br><br>
-	D.Ellis, P.Leyshon, P.Minett 00.00.1967	+	#'''Biology 36m S'''<br>The fourth corner.C.Jones, D.Parsons 00.00.1967<br><br>
-	6. Lightning Crack 30m VS,4b	+	#'''Diogenes 23m VS,4b'''<br>Start left of an arete with a small overhang near its base. Climb to a tree, follow the crack to a downward growing
-	Start right of Thunder Crack and climb the right-hand crack. Move left and scramble to a tree belay.	+	tree. Continue to a grass ledge and a short wall to a tree belay.D.Ellis, C.Taylor 00.00.1967<br><br>
-	P.Watkin, D.Parsons 00.00.1967	+	#'''Point Five Arete 23m VS,4b'''<br>Start at a short corner under a small overhang on the arete. Climb the corner, go left round the overhang then back right onto the arete. Move to one ledge then another and climb the wall on the left to a ledge. Finish up the arete.D.Parsons, C.Jones, P.Leyshon 2pt 00.00.1968 FFA Unknown Pre-1979<br><br>
-	7. The Godforsaken Gash 15m E2,5c 􀁷	+
-	Start right of Lightning Crack. Climb a ramp to a ledge, follow a thin crack and pull up left to a rightward ~~slanting~~	+
-	~~crack~~, PR. Climb to a ledge and abseil off a tree.	+
-	M.Crocker, R.Thomas, M.Ward 31.12.1986	+
-	~~Gower & SE Wales Guide Inland Limestone 361~~	+
-	~~Taf Fechan~~	+
-	Next are four corners.	+
-	8. Thorny Problem 19m S	+
-	The left-hand corner. Exit leftward.	+
-	P.Leyshon, D.Ellis, M.Berry 00.00.1967	+
-	9. Renaissance 18m E2,5b	+
-	This takes the left arete of Trilogy. Climb the awkward arete to a ledge, then move up the right side of the arete	+
-	to a horizontal crack. Continue up the left side of the arete. Belay at a tree on the left.	+
-	M.Crocker, M.Ward 27.12.1986	+
-	~~10.~~ Trilogy 20m HVS,4c	+
-	The second of the four corners. Climb to an overhang and traverse left to a tree belay.	+
-	C.Jones, D.Parsons 1pt 00.00.~~1967~~	+
-	~~FFA~~ Unknown Pre-1991	+
-	~~11.~~ Get A Load Of This 21m E4,6a 􀁷	+
-	The right arete of Trilogy. Start below Trilogy, scramble up to a ledge and climb the smooth arete, PR, to a small	+
-	ledge, then another ledge to exit left above the final step of the arete.	+
-	M.Crocker, M.Ward 27.12.1986	+
-	~~12.~~ Eulogy 36m VS,4b	+
-	The third corner.	+
-	C.Jones, D.Parsons 00.00.1967	+
-	~~13.~~ Biology 36m S	+
-	The fourth corner.	+
-	C.Jones, D.Parsons 00.00.1967	+
-	~~14.~~ Diogenes 23m VS,4b	+
-	Start left of an arete with a small overhang near its base. Climb to a tree, follow the crack to a downward growing	+
-	tree. Continue to a grass ledge and a short wall to a tree belay.	+
-	D.Ellis, C.Taylor 00.00.1967	+
-	~~15.~~ Point Five Arete 23m VS,4b	+
-	Start at a short corner under a small overhang on the arete. Climb the corner, go left round the overhang then back	+
-	right onto the arete. Move to one ledge then another and climb the wall on the left to a ledge. Finish up the arete.	+
-	D.Parsons, C.Jones, P.Leyshon 2pt 00.00.1968	+
-	FFA Unknown Pre-1979	+
	16. Father To Be 23m E1,5b		16. Father To Be 23m E1,5b
	Climb a crack 3m right of the arete to a grassy ledge, traverse right and climb a short corner to a ledge and tree		Climb a crack 3m right of the arete to a grassy ledge, traverse right and climb a short corner to a ledge and tree

Clogau Mawr

2012-05-16T13:43:57Z

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	GR725192		GR725192
	By Ren Hoek		By Ren Hoek
-	BOLTING POLICY: Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear	+	===BOLTING POLICY=== Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear
	on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.		on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.
-	PREAMBLE	+	===PREAMBLE===
	Some short limestone walls visible from and very close to the A4609. In the centre of the bay is a 12m wall, with four		Some short limestone walls visible from and very close to the A4609. In the centre of the bay is a 12m wall, with four
	cracklines.		cracklines.
-	ACCESS	+	===ACCESS===
	From Brynamman follow the A4069 Llangadog road for 3 miles until a car park is reached just below the crest of the		From Brynamman follow the A4069 Llangadog road for 3 miles until a car park is reached just below the crest of the
	hill as for Herbert’s Quarry. Clogau Maur is about 1km WNW of Herbert’s Quarry.		hill as for Herbert’s Quarry. Clogau Maur is about 1km WNW of Herbert’s Quarry.
-	DESCENTS: Walk off.	+	===DESCENTS=== Walk off.
-	THE ROUTES	+	===THE ROUTES===
-	1. Crack One ~~12m~~ E4,6b * 􀁷	+	#'''Crack One E4,6b *'''<br>The left-most crack.12m.M.Crocker 19.06.1994<br><br>
-	The left-most crack.	+	#'''Crack Two E2,5b'''<br>The second crack from the left with an obvious pod.12m.M.Crocker 19.06.1994<br><br>
-	M.Crocker 19.06.1994	+	#'''Crack Three E1,5b'''<br>The third crack from the left gained via the overlap.12m.M.Crocker 19.06.1994<br><br>
-	2. Crack Two ~~12m~~ E2,5b 􀁷	+	#'''Crack Four E2,5c'''<br>The rightmost crack, mantling onto the grassy ledge at the top.10m.M.Crocker 19.06.1994<br><br>
-	The second crack from the left with an obvious pod.	+	#'''Think Of A Name E2,5b *'''<br>The obvious thin righward-slanting groove in the grey wall towards the left side of the crag. Mantle onto the ledge below the groove, from the left, past a spike runner. Ascend the groove (runners in a shot hole), to reach a small tree and shuffle right at the top.12m.M.Crocker 19.06.1994<br><br>
-	M.Crocker 19.06.1994	+
-	~~Gower & SE Wales Limestone Gower 299~~	+
-	3. Crack Three ~~12m~~ E1,5b 􀁷	+
-	The third crack from the left gained via the overlap.	+
-	M.Crocker 19.06.1994	+
-	4. Crack Four ~~10m~~ E2,5c 􀁷	+
-	The rightmost crack, mantling onto the grassy ledge at the top.	+
-	M.Crocker 19.06.1994	+
-	5. Think Of A Name ~~12m~~ E2,5b * 􀁷	+
-	The obvious thin righward-slanting groove in the grey wall towards the left side of the crag. Mantle onto the ledge	+
-	below the groove, from the left, past a spike runner. Ascend the groove (runners in a shot hole), to reach a small	+
-	tree and shuffle right at the top.	+
-	M.Crocker 19.06.1994	+

Nash Point

2012-05-16T13:25:23Z

FIRST ASCENTS:

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:25, 16 May 2012
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	'''The walls to the right have only one route so far.'''		'''The walls to the right have only one route so far.'''
	#'''Myles Away- Fr.6a'''<br>Deceptively steep.20m<br><br>		#'''Myles Away- Fr.6a'''<br>Deceptively steep.20m<br><br>
		+	===FIRST ASCENTS===
		+	#R.Thomas N.O'Neill
		+	#R.Thomas
		+	#R.Thomas
		+	#R.Thomas
		+	#R.Thomas
		+	#M.Hirst R.Thomas G.Ashmore
		+	#M.Hirst R.Thomas G.Ashmore
		+	''Through the Arch''
		+	#R.Thomas N.O'Neill
		+	#R.Thomas N.O'Neill
		+	#R.Thomas M.Jordan

Temple Bay Inlets

2012-05-16T13:05:14Z

SEA WALLS:

Golden Wall

2012-05-16T06:23:02Z

ROUTES:

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:23, 16 May 2012
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	Routes described from left to right.		Routes described from left to right.
-	#'''Bye Bye Edi Fr 6b+'''<br>The powerful layback corner at the left side of the ledge.10m.<br><br>	+	#'''Bye Bye Edi Fr 6b+'''<br>The powerful layback corner at the left side of the ledge. 10m.<br><br>
-	#'''All that Glitters Is Not Gold Fr 7b+'''<br>The short vague groove,very cruxy.10m.<br><br>	+	#'''All that Glitters Is Not Gold Fr 7b+'''<br>The short vague groove,very cruxy. 10m.<br><br>
-	#'''Shining Dawn Fr7c'''<br>Central route on the wall,start up the diagonal flake then make hard bouldery moves to the top.10m<br><br>	+	#'''Shining Dawn Fr7c'''<br>Central route on the wall, start up the diagonal flake then make hard bouldery moves to the top. 10m<br><br>
-	#'''Golden Wonder Fr7b'''<br>A link up moving out right at the second bolt of '''Shining Dawn'''<br><br>	+	#'''Golden Wonder Fr7b'''<br>A link up moving out right at the second bolt of ''Shining Dawn''<br><br>
-	#'''Golden Shower-open project'''<br>Bolt,thread and special metal.<br><br>	+	#'''Golden Shower-open project'''<br>Bolt, thread and special metal.<br><br>
-	#'''Gold Digger Fr 6b+'''<br>At the seaward end of the ledge,a steep line of weakness,a tough start leads to good holds and a balancy top .10m.~~<br><br>~~	+	#'''Gold Digger Fr 6b+'''<br>At the seaward end of the ledge, a steep line of weakness, a tough start leads to good holds and a balancy top. 10m.
-	''Off to the left are some landward Zawns '''GOLDEN ZAWNS'' with 6 or so Fr 6's and projects.Details unknown as yet.''	+
		+
		+	''Off to the left are some landward Zawns '''GOLDEN ZAWNS''' with 6 or so Fr 6's and projects. Details unknown as yet.''
		+
	==GOLDEN ZAWNS==		==GOLDEN ZAWNS==

Golden Wall

2012-05-15T13:35:27Z

ROUTES:

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-	~~Golden Wall~~	+	==TIDAL STATUS==
		+	Variable but as the routes start from a high ledge 1.5 hrs round High Water might work.
		+	==BOLTING POLICY==
		+	Use lots,but stainless.
		+	==DESCENTS==
		+	Scramble down to the ledge easiy after first checking the state of the tide!
		+	==CLIMBING BAN==
		+	None!
		+	==ROUTES==

	Routes described from left to right.		Routes described from left to right.
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	#'''Golden Shower-open project'''<br>Bolt,thread and special metal.<br><br>		#'''Golden Shower-open project'''<br>Bolt,thread and special metal.<br><br>
	#'''Gold Digger Fr 6b+'''<br>At the seaward end of the ledge,a steep line of weakness,a tough start leads to good holds and a balancy top .10m.<br><br>		#'''Gold Digger Fr 6b+'''<br>At the seaward end of the ledge,a steep line of weakness,a tough start leads to good holds and a balancy top .10m.<br><br>
		+	''Off to the left are some landward Zawns '''GOLDEN ZAWNS'' with 6 or so Fr 6's and projects.Details unknown as yet.''
		+	==GOLDEN ZAWNS==

Bosco's Den Area

2012-05-15T13:17:13Z

BOSCO'S GULCH:

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	===Bosco's Wall===		===Bosco's Wall===

-	1. '''Swansea Hillbillies''' ~~20m E1,5b~~	+	#'''Swansea Hillbillies E1 5b'''<br>Towards the seaward end of the bay are two routes containing red tats. This is the left-hand one, which finishes at a lower off at 20m.''R.Thomas 20.06.1999''<br><br>
-		+	#'''Geoff's A Spanner E1 5b'''<br>The the right-hand route, which moves up to a flake above a bulge. From the flake wander up and left to the belay of the previous route.The belay has been sabotaged.''R.Thomas 20.06.1999''<br><br>
-	Towards the seaward end of the bay are two routes containing red tats. This is the left-hand one, which finishes at a lower off at 20m.	+
-		+
-	''R.Thomas 20.06.1999''	+
-		+
-		+
-	2. '''Geoff's A Spanner''' ~~20m E1,5b~~	+
-		+
-	The the right-hand route, which moves up to a flake above a bulge. From the flake wander up and left to the belay of the previous route.The belay has been sabotaged.	+
-		+
-	''R.Thomas 20.06.1999''	+

	===BOSCO'S GULCH===		===BOSCO'S GULCH===
	As the inlet narrows so the Gulch begins.Much of the stolen or sabotaged fixed protection/belays has been replaced.		As the inlet narrows so the Gulch begins.Much of the stolen or sabotaged fixed protection/belays has been replaced.

-	3. '''Simple Simon''' 20m Fr 6b *	+	#'''Simple Simon Fr 6b *'''<br> Right again is a PR at 5m. Climb to the PR and move slightly left, then back right to some thin moves to gain an overlap at its right end. Pull up on suspect rock to a BB.20m.''R.Thomas 29.05.1999''<br><br>
-		+	#'''Clapham Injunction Fr 6b'''<br>As for ''Simple Simon'' moving right and up to a poor crack. Climb the wall direct to step left at the top to the belay of the previous route.20m. A direct start is possible at 6c+.''R.Thomas 29.05.1999''<br><br>
-	Right again is a PR at 5m. Climb to the PR and move slightly left, then back right ~~to a TR. Climb up to and past the TR~~ to some thin moves to gain an overlap at its right end~~, TR~~. Pull up on suspect rock~~, PR, TR~~ to a BB.	+	#'''Philandering Fillipino-6c'''<br>Tricky starting moves lead to an easing and shared belay of two previous routes,stapled..20m<br><br>
-		+	#'''Gold Teeth In Them There Hills Fr 6a+ *''' <br>Start 2m left of a prominent boulder towards the landward end of the crag. Climb up a set of flakes to finish up and slightly left to a lower off.20m.''R.Thomas 29.05.1999''<br><br>
-	''R.Thomas 29.05.1999''	+	#'''Hanger Them High Fr6a+ *'''<br>Start immediately left of the prominent boulder. Climb flakes then pull slightly rightward round the overlap. Finish direct past cracks.20m. ''R.Thomas 29.05.1999''<br><br>
-		+	#'''Y'All Come Back Now Fr 6a+**'''Start from the prominent boulder and climb the wall direct with a tricky start to a shared lower off.20m''R.Thomas 06.06.1999''<br><br>
-		+	''To the right of the large boulder the '''GULCH''' narrows considerably''
-	4. '''Clapham Injunction''' ~~20m Fr 6b~~	+
-		+
-	As for ''Simple Simon'' ~~to gain the first TR. Move~~ right and up to poor ~~wires and a good PR~~. Climb the wall direct to step left at the top to the belay of the previous route. A direct start is possible at 6c+.	+
-		+
-	''R.Thomas 29.05.1999''	+
-	#'''Philandering Fillipino-6c'''<br>Tricky starting moves lead to an easing and shared belay of two previous routes.20m<br><br>	+
-		+
-	5. '''Gold Teeth In Them There Hills~~''' 20m~~ Fr 6a+ *	+
-		+
-	Start 2m left of a prominent boulder towards the landward end of the crag. Climb up a set of flakes to ~~a PR and TRs. Finish~~ up and slightly left~~, TR~~ to a lower off.	+
-		+
-	''R.Thomas 29.05.1999''	+
-		+
-		+
-	6. '''Hanger Them High''' ~~20m Fr 6a+~~	+
-		+
-	Start immediately left of the prominent boulder. Climb flakes ~~to TR and~~ pull slightly rightward round the overlap. Finish direct past cracks ~~and a TR to a lower off~~.	+
-		+
-	''R.Thomas 29.05.1999''	+
-		+
-		+
-	7. '''Y'All Come Back Now~~''' 20m~~ Fr 6a+ **	+
-		+
-	Start from the prominent boulder and climb the wall direct with a tricky start~~, TR,~~ to a lower off.	+
-		+
-	''R.Thomas 06.06.1999''	+


	1. '''The Clampetts''' 20m Fr6c *		1. '''The Clampetts''' 20m Fr6c *

-	To the right of the boulder climb the wall trending slightly left to the high lower off.The first staple has been vandalised but it is possible to stick clip past it.	+	To the right of the boulder climb the wall trending slightly left to the high lower off.The first staple has been vandalised but it is possible to stick clip past it.''G.Gibson 00.06.1999''
-		+
-	''G.Gibson 00.06.1999''	+


	2. '''Jump Over My Shadow''' 25m E4,6a Fr7a *		2. '''Jump Over My Shadow''' 25m E4,6a Fr7a *

-	Start to the right of The ''Clampetts'' and climb an undercut layback crack to gain a slab. Pull through an overlap and gain the ledge and a tricky finish on the headwall.	+	Start to the right of The ''Clampetts'' and climb an undercut layback crack to gain a slab. Pull through an overlap and gain the ledge and a tricky finish on the headwall.''G.Gibson 00.06.1999''
-		+
-	''G.Gibson 00.06.1999''	+


	3. '''Conglomeration''' 25m E4,6a Fr7a *		3. '''Conglomeration''' 25m E4,6a Fr7a *

-	Way up to the right, is a huge square lump of conglomerate. Gain and pass this to gain the ledge and blind headwall above.	+	Way up to the right, is a huge square lump of conglomerate. Gain and pass this to gain the ledge and blind headwall above.''G.Gibson 00.06.1999''
-		+
-	''G.Gibson 00.06.1999''	+
-		+
-		+
-	~~4. '''Standing On A Beach''' 25m E3,6a Fr6c~~	+
-		+
-	~~Scramble up the corner to gain a ledge, then step back onto the wall and follow the left-hand bolt line past various huge conglomerate deposits.~~	+
-		+
-	~~''G.Gibson 00.06.1999''~~	+
-		+
-		+
-	5. '''Reign Of The Deer''' 25m E4,6a Fr7a *	+
-		+
-	~~As for Standing On A Beach, but take the right-hand finish.~~	+
-		+
-	~~''G.Gibson 00.03.2000''~~	+
-		+
-		+
-	~~The cave at the back of the Gulch is forbidden territory to climbers. Up to the right is another cave. It is easily reached~~	+
-	~~by scrambling up from the beach. There are two projects on the left wall.~~	+


-	6. '''~~Squeal Like~~ A ~~Hog~~''' 25m E3,6a ~~Fr6c~~ *	+	4. '''Standing On A Beach Fr 6c'''<br>Scramble up the corner to gain a ledge, then step back onto the wall and follow the left-hand bolt line past various huge conglomerate deposits.25m.''G.Gibson 00.06.1999''<br><br>
		+	#'''Reign Of The Deer''' 25m E4,6a Fr7a *As for Standing On A Beach, but take the right-hand finish.''G.Gibson 00.03.2000''

-	~~The main section of the cave is blessed with a diagonal line up cracks and cursed with some heavy metal. Climb it with extreme awkwardness and poorly spaced bolts.~~

-	''J.~~Bullock, G~~.~~Morris 00~~.00.~~2000''~~	+	The cave('''DEN''') at top of the Gulch is forbidden territory to climbers. Up to the right is another cave. It is easily reached
		+	by scrambling up from the beach. There were two projects on the left wall but these have been completed(no detais)The routes near the cave are...


-	7. '''~~The Millennium Thug~~''' 25m E4,~~6b Fr7a~~	+	6. '''Squeal Like A Hog''' 25m E3,6a Fr6c *The main section of the cave is blessed with a diagonal line up cracks and cursed with some heavy metal. Climb it with extreme awkwardness and poorly spaced bolts.''J.Bullock, G.Morris 00.00.2000''

-	~~Powerful climbing up the east wall of the cave and cutting through ''Squeal Like A Hog''.~~

-	''G.Gibson 03.03.2000''	+	7. '''The Millennium Thug''' 25m E4,6b Fr7aPowerful climbing up the east wall of the cave and cutting through ''Squeal Like A Hog''.25m.''G.Gibson 03.03.2000''

	Just down and right is another sea level buttress where several solos have been done,some at high tide.The depth of water is worrying so carefully spot your landing point at low tide.		Just down and right is another sea level buttress where several solos have been done,some at high tide.The depth of water is worrying so carefully spot your landing point at low tide.

Golden Wall

2012-05-15T11:32:19Z

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	Golden Wall		Golden Wall
		+
		+	Routes described from left to right.
		+	#'''Bye Bye Edi Fr 6b+'''<br>The powerful layback corner at the left side of the ledge.10m.<br><br>
		+	#'''All that Glitters Is Not Gold Fr 7b+'''<br>The short vague groove,very cruxy.10m.<br><br>
		+	#'''Shining Dawn Fr7c'''<br>Central route on the wall,start up the diagonal flake then make hard bouldery moves to the top.10m<br><br>
		+	#'''Golden Wonder Fr7b'''<br>A link up moving out right at the second bolt of '''Shining Dawn'''<br><br>
		+	#'''Golden Shower-open project'''<br>Bolt,thread and special metal.<br><br>
		+	#'''Gold Digger Fr 6b+'''<br>At the seaward end of the ledge,a steep line of weakness,a tough start leads to good holds and a balancy top .10m.<br><br>

Upper Crags Fall Bay To Mewslade

2012-05-14T14:44:16Z

ACCESS:

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User:Tim Hoddy

2012-05-14T14:36:20Z

Deleted user: MojibiPamecu (171)

Golden Wall

2012-05-14T13:56:45Z

Created page with "Golden Wall"

New page

Golden Wall

Gower

2012-05-14T13:56:08Z

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	***[[Bosco's Den Area#Bosco's Wall\|Bosco's Wall]]		***[[Bosco's Den Area#Bosco's Wall\|Bosco's Wall]]
	***[[Bosco's Den Area#Bosco's Gulch\|Bosco's Gulch]]		***[[Bosco's Den Area#Bosco's Gulch\|Bosco's Gulch]]
		+	***[[Golden Wall]]
	**[[Bucketland]]		**[[Bucketland]]
	**[[Bacon Hole]]		**[[Bacon Hole]]

Minchen Hole to Hunts Bay

2012-05-14T11:52:57Z

PREAMBLE:

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	of non-tidal caves. Two of these caves would be of national climbing significance. Bacon Hole with its 50m roof,		of non-tidal caves. Two of these caves would be of national climbing significance. Bacon Hole with its 50m roof,
	which would provide one of Europe's most impressive sports venues, but climbing is currently banned. There are also a couple of smaller caves,		which would provide one of Europe's most impressive sports venues, but climbing is currently banned. There are also a couple of smaller caves,
-	where climbing is permitted and Bosco's ~~Den~~ provides a fair number of good routes in a venue that comes into its own	+	where climbing is permitted and Bosco's Area provides a fair number of good routes in a venue that comes into its own
	on a hot summer day.		on a hot summer day.

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	==CLIMBING BAN==		==CLIMBING BAN==
-	[[Bosco's Den]] (although not the much more extensive Bosco's Wall, Gulch and Cave) is currently banned for climbing. Please avoid ~~them~~ in order not to jeopardise access to other crags.	+	[[Bosco's Den]] (although not the much more extensive Bosco's Wall, Gulch and Cave) is currently banned for climbing. Please avoid it in order not to jeopardise access to other crags.
		+	(The Den is the deeper high cave approached by a fragile conglomerate false ceiling with presumably many sacrosanct archaeological/natural historical treasures within.)

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	***[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#East_Wall\|East Wall]]		***[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#East_Wall\|East Wall]]
	***[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#Scoop_Corner\|Scoop Corner]]		***[[Three_Cliffs_And_Pobbles_Bays#Scoop_Corner\|Scoop Corner]]
		+	**[[Pobbles Quarries\|Pobbles Quarries]]

	*'''[[Shire Combe To Watch House East]]''' [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png]] [[Image:Lock-open.png\|link=]]		*'''[[Shire Combe To Watch House East]]''' [[Image:Updated_spot_red.png]] [[Image:Lock-open.png\|link=]]

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	#'''Paternoster-E3, 5c'''<br>The roof,situ threads.10m<br><br>		#'''Paternoster-E3, 5c'''<br>The roof,situ threads.10m<br><br>
	#'''Fisherman's friend-E2, 5b'''<br>The roof and final crack.10m<br><br>		#'''Fisherman's friend-E2, 5b'''<br>The roof and final crack.10m<br><br>
-	#'''Royle Headache-E3, 6a'''<br>Gaining the gaping corner proves problematic,watch your head.10m<br><br>	+	#'''Royle Headache-E3, 6b'''<br>Gaining the gaping corner proves problematic,watch your head.10m<br><br>
-	#'''Jilters Wall-E2, 5c'''<br>The narrow white wall,pr.10m<br><br>	+	#'''Jilters Wall-E2, 5c'''<br>The narrow white wall,PR.10m<br><br>
	#'''Professor's Crack-VS, 4b'''<br>The crozzly ramp and crack.10m<br><br>		#'''Professor's Crack-VS, 4b'''<br>The crozzly ramp and crack.10m<br><br>
	#'''Leg Over-E3, 6a'''<br>Crozzly chert pulling.Swing left from the platform (TR) and surmount the final roof(PR)Womble to the top.10m<br><br>		#'''Leg Over-E3, 6a'''<br>Crozzly chert pulling.Swing left from the platform (TR) and surmount the final roof(PR)Womble to the top.10m<br><br>
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	#'''Cross Over-?, ?'''<br>The right edge of the block.5m<br><br>		#'''Cross Over-?, ?'''<br>The right edge of the block.5m<br><br>
	''Around the front again are-''		''Around the front again are-''
-	#'''"How ~~well it flows~~"-HVS, 5b'''<br>The short ragged crack,then amble to the top.5m<br><br>	+	#'''"How Well It Flows"-HVS, 5b'''<br>The short ragged crack,then amble to the top.5m<br><br>
	#'''Arcana E4,5c'''<br> The face right of the ragged crack.7m.<br><br>		#'''Arcana E4,5c'''<br> The face right of the ragged crack.7m.<br><br>
-	#'''Lysistrata E5,6a'''<br> Make first moves of "~~arcana~~" to finger rail then hard moves into short crack.Straight up on two layaways to good finishing hold.7m.<br><br>	+	#'''Lysistrata E5,6a'''<br> Make first moves of "Arcana" to finger rail then hard moves into short crack.Straight up on two layaways to good finishing hold.7m.<br><br>
	#'''Bridges End E3,6b *'''<br> Somehow gain the pockets in the hanging arete of undercut.Proceed past the large rusting DRILLED peg with long moves to gain jugs.7m.<br><br>		#'''Bridges End E3,6b *'''<br> Somehow gain the pockets in the hanging arete of undercut.Proceed past the large rusting DRILLED peg with long moves to gain jugs.7m.<br><br>
	#'''Undercut-E1, 5c'''The obvious hanging corner.Eugene's sitting start is much harder.7m<br><br>		#'''Undercut-E1, 5c'''The obvious hanging corner.Eugene's sitting start is much harder.7m<br><br>