Sewerpipe
From SWMC Guidebook
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TIDAL STATUS
The entire sewerpipe area is above water 2.5 hours either side of low tide. However at neap high tides it is possible to do the problems on the back walls
PREAMBLE
Sewerpipe Area
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The Lion
 | Take the narrow path down the sewerpipe
Just let pedestrians shake their heads they do not know the way to heaven! Wave wound pebbles grind the lion's foot, he watches december's sun arc the ocean sky I touch the rock strangely warmed hook, pull, crimp, a microclimate warms my soul
This place is probably the most relaxed of the Gower bouldering areas. There are a great number of easier problems and one or two hard ones. At high tide in summer, swimming is a viable alternative to bouldering and it is great fun jumping in from the top of the lion. The lions den is submerged but it is possible to swim through taking advantage of the mid way air pocket. This is also an ideal venue for bouldering with dogs and/or children as the various walls keep things fairly managable. There is much exploring to be done. The area lies 200m east of Rotherslade bay
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ACCESS
Drive up through Mumbles high street and turn left at the baptist church. As the road nears the top of the hill take the second of three adjacent left turns and park in the road.
Walk down to Rotherslade and take the coastal path East. After a couple of hundred yards a path right leads to an earth canyon containing an old Sewerpipe - Follow this to the sea and tun left. An alternative approach is to boulder hop from the beach.
Warning : Do not be distracted by the delights of the cafe - you can visit that later.
MAP OF AREA
THE BOULDERING
The Minging Cave
 | On arrival at the site the first thing you will see is the minging cave. Although this is usually wet, most of the holds are positive and the problems are actually quite good. Most of the friable holds appear to be have broken off already
1. Straight up through the overhangs 2. Through the overhangs further right 3. Takes the obvious diagonal crackline 4. Sit start (depending on pebble level) start with hands in the hole at the back of the cave, pull out via a sloper 5. The overhang at its left end 6. The overhang at its right end. |
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The Elephant
 | There are rumours that this is a cousin of the more famous one last seen in Fontainebleau.
1. Start round the back then up a meter or so, traverse right round the front and up to a highball finish |
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Two Aretes
 | 1. The right arete - a slopy body tension smeary type thing - most unlike limestone
2 The left arete - traverse in from the left and up the arete. Some people worry about whether a large block is properly attached |
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The Canyon
 | The climbing is on the right wall of the Canyon (facing in). Starting on the right
1) Up the Right hand wall 2) Straight up and over the bulge from sit/crouch start jug 3) Leftwards rising traverse under overhang - some long reaches 4) Si's traverse - a left to right low traverse. This finishes up PacMan's Face .
There are numerous variations |
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Pac Man
 | 5) Pac Man's Face, Start on low jugs then a couple of big swings up right to the top
6) Pac Man's Face, the Right Arete on razors |
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Back Cave
 | Very Steep climbing. The rock is not above suspicion, particularly on route 2. The ground level varies quite a lot in these parts
1. Start at the back, traverse leftwards for 3m then up 2. The back of the cave via intersting holds. Drop off from the crozzly block or top out as you see fit |
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The Python
 | This feature makes for a bit of fun
1. Sit start on the left of the python and hook either side. Shimmy up to the face on the right and exit on sharp crimps |
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The Lion
 | This wonderful feature dominates the area. The problems are bold but not desperate
1. The left wall avoiding either arete 2. The easy way up on jugs 3. The right side of the wall 4. A short jamming problem |
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The Lion's Den
 | There are a couple of deceptively hard problems here
1. From underclings inside the cave make your way up the middle of the headwall to the top. No bridging left allowed! 2. The right hand wall via a jug (holds on the right wall are forbidden) |
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The Axe
 | 1. Chris Allen's sit start and up the left arrete
2. Start in the cave, move on to the arete and then up the seemingly fragile cemented area 3. Start up the crack then on good hidden holds to the top. Necky. 4. A right tending variation is harder 5. The right arete
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The Back of the axe
 | Usually wet but this thuggy and delicate traverse is worth waiting for
1. From Easy ground on the right use holds under the lip to bridge across the cave, From there traverse leftwards to the Axe arete |
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The HB Wall
 | This slightly impending wall gets a bit bold at the top
1-3 Various ways up the wall |
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The Easy Wall
 | This wall has a a number of easier problems (and one hard one) but the landings need careful padding.
1. Take the Bulge Direct 2. A route going up right of the bulge 3. Take the wall between the bulge and the smooth area 4. The smooth area 5. The right side of the wall |
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On the East Side of the sewerpipe area there is a headland which contains some climbable rock. One little gem can be found at low tide slightly west of the end of the headland
Headland Gully
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1. A Sit start with feet on the left hand side, move right and up the nose. Alternatively traverse around the end of the overhang To the right of this is a good looking V too difficult for me through the roof |
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to the east of this there is a another bay which in general does not have the quality of the sewerpipe area. However, the problems it does have are brilliant. At the top of the bay there is a large cave with some futuristic lines if it ever dries. Bender Wall is to the left of the cave. Red roof starts at the large pillar on the right hand side of the cave. A little further to the right, around a block you will find the pillar forming the outside wall of a narrow zawn.
Bender Wall
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1. Deep within the small cave left of bender wall jam out to a line of slopers. At the Apex climb up to the ledge. Brilliant 2. The left hand line up the wall 3. The right hand line
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Red roof
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1. From a jug at the back of the pillar work up and leftwards through the overhang to a large crystal hole. Now go to and sumount the lip. An excellent problem at V3 2. The wimpy version 3. The jump onto the wall - reminiscent of cliffhanger? Can anyone link 1 -> 3. Apparently some have tried!
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The Pillar
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1. From a sit start work your way directly up the pillar. Those with stong arms and fingers will pull straight up, those with core strength will use the RH wall for feet. 2. The bulge on the RH wall
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