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Yellow Buttress
GR 442 856
51.547746, -4.249204 (Upper Tier)
TIDAL STATUS
Upper Tier: Non-tidal
Lower Tier: 3 hours either side of low water
DESCENTS
Upper Tier: Scramble off at the top and drop down east (left) well back from the top.
Lower Tier: Scramble down to the left (west) of the crag.
Upper Tier
A steep narrow ridge on the left and a series of grooves to the right. There is a prominent saddle at its base.
1. South West Diedre - 18m, S
A good line on the west (left) of the ridge. The rock requires careful handling.
J.Talbot 00.00.1969
The steep bulging east face has obvious groove lines.
2. Left Groove - 15m, S
The left-hand groove is gained by a traverse from the ribs on the left.
Unknown Pre-1981
3. Pink Pointless - 15m, E2,5b
A poor route on crumbly rock. Climb the undercut slab between Left and Right Groove to meet Right Groove at the base of the crack. Pull left into a scoop, which is followed to the finish.
M. Crocker 10.01.1999
4, Right Groove - 25m E2,5b
Perhaps the worst route on Gower. Loose in its upper section. The obvious 'jam' crack in the upper right wall of the tower is gained from the loose groove running up from the start of Pink Pointless and turns very crunchy at 20m. Unknown Pre-1981
Lower Tier
This is the sea cliff that falls from the saddle immediately below Yellow Buttress. Devil's Cwm lies immediately to the east. The crag is tidal and accessible 3 hours either side of low water. A system of ledges at half height can be accessed at all states of the tide. The routes are about 35 metres in length. The rock is excellent in the lower half of the crag, then sharp and brittle in the middle and finally a little loose at the top. Routes may feel harder than their given grades!
Two identifying features are a ridge bounding the right side of the cliff and a large but shallow cave at half height on the left side of the cliff with a deep crack running through its roof. To the right of this cave a system of ledges extends across the crag. At the foot of the cliff a small zawn runs into a cave below the large cave mentioned above. The routes are described from left to right.
1. Midwife Crisis - 35m VS *
A contrived but highly entertaining route. A novel first pitch is followed by a short hard crux, at the top of the grade, on the second. Start by descending to the back of the small zawn.
- 4a. 12m. Climb onto an overhanging shelf in the lower cave (easier on left). Cross the shelf to the right, avoiding neolithic burial remains (just kidding). Exit via a thru-cave in the roof and be reborn onto the crag face. Continue up easily to ledges below the large upper cave.
- 5a. 23m. Climb the steep, rough, pocketed wall between the cave and the left bounding ridge (crux). Move up and right over the lip of the cave and ascend the easy shallow gully above to the top, taking care with the rock.
Nick Smith Peter Morgan 15.9.09
2. Empty Cave - 35m HS
Start just right of the small zawn on a tidal ledge beneath a small black roof at about 5 metres. Climb a wall and turn the roof on its left. Continue past 2 ledges to gain a shallow groove in the right wall of the large cave. Gain the headwall and climb it via cracks and flakes.
Jon Roberts Nick Smith 7.4.09
3. Cream Egg - 35m HS *
Bridge the cracked chimney groove right of the low black overhang to gain easier ground at half height. Climb the wall above trending left to finish up a short corner.
Nick Smith Jon Roberts 7.4.09
4. April Fools - 35m S
Climb a wall just right of Cream Egg to gain a shallow groove which leads to the easy ground at half height. Above and slightly right the route takes a left facing corner to a worrying finish.
Jon Roberts Nick Smith 7.4.09
5. Chocolate Bunny - 35m V Diff.
The corner bounding the right side of the main face.
Nick Smith Jon Roberts 7.4.09
6. Easter Parade - 35m Mod *
The curved rake in the wall of the bounding ridge. Pleasant.
Nick Smith Jon Roberts 7.4.09
