Tyle y Coch

From SWMC Guidebook

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

GR ST 214 957

Contents 1 PREAMBLE 2 ACCESS 3 THE ROUTES 3.1 Right Hand Area 3.2 The Main Wall 3.3 Black Cat Wall 4 FIRST ASCENTS

PREAMBLE

Tyle y Coch Quarry is a (not unpleasant) north east facing hole in the ground, surrounded by dense woodland.

In it's favour it contains some quality sports routes between Fr.3+ and Fr.7a+ with scope for more development.

Unfortunately there is a fair amount of seepage on the main wall which takes a good dry spell to clear - and even worse, a lot of midge activity.

The quarry is generally cold and damp in Winter and infested during the Summer, so obviously the best time to climb here is either Spring or Autumn.

Currently the first two bolts have been chopped from all sport routes - hopefully this condition will be remedied in 2010.

ACCESS

From J28 of the M4: take the A467 dual carriageway as far as the Halfmoon (Sirhowy/Crosskeys) roundabout. Take the third exit signposted A467 to Newbridge. Follow this road taking the third turning on the left after the mini roundabout at Pontywaun, into the village of Westend (not signposted). Drive through the village passing The Crown pub on the left. Approximately 1/3m after passing all the houses a long lay-by is reached on the left. Park here.

From Ystrad Mynach/Blackwod: Follow A472 to the roundabout (junction) with A467, take first exit to Newbridge. Pass the railway station, under a railway bridge, and bear left. Within 100 yards is a left turn running parallel with the railway track (Ebbw View Terrace). Pass under the A472 viaduct and the layby is obvious on the right before entering West End village.

From the parking area, follow the road toward Westend for about 20m to a telegraph post on the uphill side of the road. Step up the banking and follow a track through beech woodland until you spot an obvious masonry tunnel passing beneath a disused rail line. The quarry is directly opposite you. It should take you less than five minutes to walk from the car.

Map Of Gower and SE Wales

THE ROUTES

The routes are described from right to left.

Right Hand Area

1. Lilly Of The Valleys - Fr.3+
   A slabby line up a groove at the right-hand side of the crag. A Friend 2 protects the one awkward move. 8m
   
   
2. Jumping Jack Flash - F.r4+
   Climb directly up the short orange wall, passing two bolts to the belay. 7m
   
   
3. Enema Of The Affair - Fr.6c+ **
   Climb the arete via several tricky moves. 12m
   
   
4. High Moon - Fr.6a+ *
   A good face route 2m left of the arete, with a good rockover at 10m. 12m
   
   
5. Suppose A Tree - Fr.4+
   Climb the corner on the left side of the pillar, stepping left on to the wall at 8m. Climb the small overhang to finish. 12m
   
   
6. Buen Culo - Fr.4
   Start 2m to the left of Suppose A Tree. Climb a short steep wall continuing up the narrow slabby wall above, trending slightly left to the belay. 11m
   
   
7. Mal Culo - Fr.4+
   Start in a shallow corner 2m to the left of Buen Culo. Climb the shallow corner, moving over the small overhang on the right. Continue directly above on the short slabby wall and small overhang to finish. 11m
   
   
8. The Ring - Fr.3+
   Climb the same shallow corner as Mal Culo, but continue straight on to the overhanging prow of rock, turning this on its right. Step left to the belay. 10m
   
   
9. Bore Hole - Fr.3+
   Again climb the shallow corner of Mal Culo, but move left to follow a line of bore holes to the belay. 10m
   
   

The Main Wall

1. Cheeky Arete - S
   The short arete is started on the right. Move on the left side, PR and finish by scrambling left up the narrow ramp towards the belay. 8m
   
   
2. The Big Tissue - Fr.6b+
   Start 2m left of Cheeky Arete of Peachy. Climb and mantle over the overhang with difficulty. Easier climbing up the wall leads to a thin finish. 11m
   
   
3. Peachy - Fr6b+ **
   Start 2m left of the Big Tissue and make a tricky move onto a jutting hold to gain a bore hole. Move up with some difficulty and continue past an awkward overlap to finish at the top of a narrow ramp. 12m
   
   
4. Mislivings - Fr.7a **
   Start as for Peachy, but at the large borehole traverse left with feet below the small overhang and hands above. Climb the leftward-trending line from the edge of the overlap to a final roof and crux finish. A sustained route. 14m
   
   
5. Paradise Row - Fr.6c+ **
   A sustained wall climb, with the crux at the top. Start 5m left of Mislivings and climb through an overlap to reach a break. Swing right to join Mislivings at its crux and follow this to finish. 15m
   
   
6. The Pink Lady - Fr.6c *
   Start in the centre of the wall under a vague crack line. Ascend with difficulty to the small roof, where improving holds lead to a BB in the centre of the headwall. 11m
   
   
7. A Cleft Stick - Fr.7a *
   Follow The Pink Lady to the second BR. Step left and up to the overlap, pull through it to gain the break and finish up the headwall. 15m
   
   
8. Belly Up - Fr.7a+ **
   Start 5m left of A Cleft Stick and follow a tricky initial crack to gain the overlap. Pull through this rightward to gain a hole and wide break. Swing left and finish up the tricky headwall. 18m
   
   
9. Root Canal - E1,5b
   The corner is climbed on natural gear to the belay. 13m
   
   
10. Rump And Scoop - Fr.5+ *
    Ascend the arete 3m left of the corner. 12m
    
    

Black Cat Wall

1. The Black Circular Cat - E3,5c **
   Start at the left-hand end of the face, directly below the left end of a narrow ledge at 3m. Climb to the ledge with difficulty. Walk right along this and ascend a ramp, leading to a corner and overhang. Arrange gear and break out right using a very thin ramp line for feet, eventually gaining a good hold and the top. A direct start is possible via the roof and short crack at E3,6a. 15m
   
   
2. The Postman - E2,5c
   Start as for the above route. Move along the ledge until reaching a thin crack. Use this and continue up right across the face to the corner. Follow this moving left to the top. Large Friends are handy. 14m
   
   
3. Pecker Patrol - E1,5b
   Start 1m left of the Postman. Climb the left hand edge of the wall to a PR. Pass this and move up and right to the large ledge. 12m
   

FIRST ASCENTS

Undeveloped Overhanging Wall

Right Hand Area

1. S.Abbott, J.James, W.Gladwin, D.Jones 04.02.2001
2. S.Abbott, J.James, W.Gladwin 14.05.2000
3. J.James, W.Gladwin 14.05.2000
4. J.James, W.Gladwin 00.12.1999
5. W.Gladwin, J.James 08.07.2000
6. W.Gladwin, S.Abbott, J.James 13.05.2000
7. W.Gladwin, J.James, J.Keyhole 07.05.2000
8. W.Gladwin, J.James 16.07.2000
9. W.Gladwin, J.James 16.07.2000

The Main Wall

1. S.Abbott, J.James, W.Gladwin 14.05.2000
2. J.James, W.Gladwin, D.Jones 13.05.2001
3. J.James, W.Gladwin 14.07.2000
4. J.James, W.Gladwin 22.06.2001
5. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 23.09.2001
6. G.Jenkin, W.Gladwyn, G.Gibson 16.09.2001
7. G.Gibson 23.09.2001
8. G.Gibson, A.Jenkin, J.James, W.Gladwyn 16.09.2001
9. J.James, T.Williams 23.07.2000
10. J.James, S.Abbott, W.Gladwin 08.10.2000

Black Cat Wall

1. J. James, S. Abbott, W. Gladwin 04.03.2001
   Direct: J. James, P. Bowen 00.03.2001
2. J.James, J.Steer 20.05.2001
3. J.James, S.Thompson, D.Williams, W.Gladwyn 16.09.2001