Trehafod

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Chris Shorrock on Saga Louts 6a+ at Trehafod.
Photo courtesy of Mark Salter

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

GR 045 911

Contents

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.

PREAMBLE

Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the bolts and pegs used to protect the original ascents have corroded.

Some climbs are possible in the rain and a few stay dry permanently.

ACCESS

This is the crag behind and to the north of Trehafod railway station. If on foot take the train there and take the path leading out from the north side of the station. After 150m, a metalled road is reached, turn right to reach the crag more or less immediately. If in a car take the Trehafod exits off the A4225 carriageway. After 500m turn right under a bridge just past the railway station. Park immediately

DESCENTS

Some routes have individual bolt belays. Others don't .!.?.!

THE ROUTES

Routes No. 1 to 4

Described from Left to Right.

1. Roaches Revisited - HVS,5b

The off width crack at the left side of the crag is tricky. Take your BIG cams. Lower off Beauty School Drop-out.

C.Evans solo 00.00.1992


2. Beauty School Drop-out 7a*

Wrongly described as Chris Evans baked bean super hero in the guide. The wall right of RR is crimpy, intense and climbed direct; using the crack reduces the grade to 6c.

A Sharp P Lewis 00/02/92


3. Earl of Porth 6a+*

The wall right of B.S.D, already popular B.B

A Sharp P Lewis 00/12/08


4. Guto Nythbran 6b

Wall and overlap right of EOP one crimpy move B.B

A Sharp P Lewis 00/01/09


Rave Crave Area

Routes No. 5 to 7


5. Elf & Safety 6c *

Pull through the left side of the large overhang via a crack B.B

A. Sharp P.Lewis 27/12/08


6. Rave Crave/Rhubarb 7a+*

Dyno through the roof and continue direct with difficulty

Chris Evans Andy Sharp 00/00/92


7. Meg(A) Skater girl from Gelli 6a

Grove and overlap starting at the right end of the overhang.

A Sharp P Lewis 27/12/08


Gorki’s Wall


Discount Included

8. Free Wales - VS,4b

The crack at the left-hand side of the main wall, above the graffiti of the same name.

M.Herbert, J.Carter, C.Evans 00.00.1992


9. Missing link 6b+

The first bolted line via two pockets

Chris Evans 00/00/92


10. Demi Moore 7a *

Next bolted line good moves via a pocket

A Sharp P Lewis 00/00/92


11. Gorki’s Zygotic Mynci 6c+**

The original and best route up the centre of the wall

Chris Evans 00/00/92


12. Just another one move wonder 6b+

The final bolted line – Don’t use the crack!

A Sharp 00/00/92


12. Traverse - E5,6b

There is a traverse along this main section starting up either the left or right bolt line and finishing up its counterpart.

Exact details are not known. Clip the BRs en route.

Ant Hill Mob Pre-1995


13. Nasty Norman - VS,4c

Not bad. The large central offwidth on this wall.

J.Carter, M.Herbert, C.Evans 00.00.1992


14. Sniffing Debrah’s Pocket - E2,5c

Gain the large ledge to the right of the offwidth. Climb the wall above.

C.Evans, R.Chard 00.00.1992


15. Cenotaph norm carter 6b*

Start from the Andy Capp graffiti and finish as for discount BB (soon to be rebolted)


16. Discount included in the price 6a+**

The longest route on the crag with a new direct finish. Very worthwhile.

Chris Evans 1992 New Finish A. Sharp P Lewis 00/12/08


17. Baldy walks to Ponty 6a+

A direct version up the wall right of Discount.

Chris Evans 00/00/92 Straightened Andy Sharp Pete Lewis 00/12/08


18. Rhondda leader 6a

The last line on the wall

A Sharp P Lewis 00/01/09


19. Michelle Pfeiffer 6c *

The thin crack in the overhang wall is short and sweet

A Sharp P Lewis 00/00/92


20. Beef Curry And Chips - HVS,5b

The arete itself climbed on its right-hand side, PB.

C.Evans, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 08.02.1992


21. Saga Louts 6a+

The wall 5 metres right of M.P is climbed direct

A Sharp P Lewis 00/01/09


22. Sir Kitt V3

Good 10 metre traverse. Start from Meg (A). Traverse the obvious line with a long finishing move. Reverse and dyno through the rave crave overhang to get a nice V5

A Sharp 00/12/08