Ton Pentre
From SWMC Guidebook
GR SS 974 955
Contents |
PREAMBLE
A small quarry with surprisingly good rock, especially on the mildly leaning wall taken by most of the routes. It dries quickly and is sheltered. There are some lower offs, but it is advisable to back them up with a rope from fence posts at the top. Many of the PRs are missing, although all the routes have been repeated for the last guidebook checking (~2000).
ACCESS
Pass through Ystrad on the A4058, then turn right by a disused church with a prominent fountain. Drive up the hill, bearing right to a terrace overlooking Ton Pentre. Park here. Walk through the gate, cross the fence to the right and contour round this to reach the quarry in about 100m. If coming on foot take the bus or train to Ton Pentre and follow the same description as above.
THE ROUTES
1. Alone And Blue - E3,5c
The left-hand side of overhanging back wall, just left of the first crack, (missing PR - use Friend 1½) to a break. Finish up a slight crack to a PB. 11m
2. Help The Aged - E1,5b
The crack immediately to the right. 12m
3. The Road To Nowhere - E2,5b
The crack to the right, TR, proves bolder than expected, and is slightly loose in places. 12m
4. April Fool - E3,5c
Used to have 5 PRs (not an April Fool Joke), but now has only one. 3m right is a vague crack, followed to a shelf. Move up and left, then up the headwall to a BB out left. 12m
5. Spirit Of Ystrad - E4,6a *
Mean and fingery. Start up the wall to the right, RP and Friend ½. Make hard moves up onto the shelf, PR. Move up and slightly right, 2PRs, crux, to a BB. 12m
6. Shins - HS,4a
Climb the slatty wall at right angles to the last route, then move out right along the huge ledge. Finish direct from its right hand end. 12m
7. Tom Tom Club - E2,5b
Start in the large depression in the bay right of the wall housing all the other routes. Climb the prominent tower, with a hard and quite bold start, then finish more or less direct. Only one of the original 3PRs remains. 15m
First Ascents
1 R.Thomas, G.Royle 00.00.1990
2 R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990
3 R.Thomas, M.Learoyd 00.00.1990
4 M.Learoyd, R.Thomas, L.Foulkes 00.00.1990
5 M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 00.00.1990
6 A.Eggleton solo 14.05.1995
7 R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1990
