Three Cliffs And Pobbles Bays
From SWMC Guidebook
GR 537 877 to GR 543 875
Contents |
TIDAL STATUS
Three Cliffs 3 hours, Pobbles West 4 hours, Pobbles East 1½ hours, Scoop Corner 1 hour either side of low water.
BOLTING POLICY
No Bolting
PREAMBLE
Protruding into the centre of a deep sandy bay to the South East of Penmaen, Three Cliffs provides Gower with its most picturesque venue. Add to this its number of quality easy to mid-grade routes and its lack of seriousness and it is easy to see why the crag is extremely popular. Pobbles Bay West lying only 100m to the east provides a useful overspill, or somewhere to retreat to when the tides threaten. Pobbles Bay East is considerably more tidal but offers some easier routes, which are far better than the over-popular venue of King Wall and on better rock. Scoop Corner is a recent rediscovery, perhaps worth a quick solo if in the area.
ACCESS
1. Penmaen Access
On the A4118 before Penmaen, when approaching from Swansea turn right (north) at a telephone kiosk and bench (GR 532 887), into a National Trust car park. Cross back over the road to an obvious track (at North Hill Farm) and follow signposts for the beach. Cross the river via obvious stepping stones. The rear of the Three Cliffs is visible ahead. At low to mid tides, Pobbles Bay can be reached by walking eastwards round the front of the arch.
2. Southgate Access
Take the offshoot of the B4436 leading into Southgate, then a right-hand lane (Bendrick Drive) just after the Golf Club (it will be necessary to park a little further on and walk back). Follow a path through fields and round a wood to gain a path leading down through dunes to Pobbles after about 15 minutes. It is also possible to follow the cliff top road and path as described in the Shire Combe area approach.
DESCENTS
Three Cliffs descents are by easy scrambling left (west) down the ridge and Pobbles West by easy scrambling at several places along the crag. Pobbles East and Scoop corner, by scrambling down and left in both cases.
THE ROUTES
Three Cliffs
GR SS 53829 67754
1. Left Crack - 15m M
At the left (west) end of the cliff, climb broken rock to a short slab, over this to a ledge, then up a crack to finish.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
2. Right Crack I - 16m M
Follow Left Crack to the ledge, then take the crack bearing up and right.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
3. Wall Climb I - 9m D
Climb the slab right of the lower section of Right Crack.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
4. Cleft I - 10m D
This is the first of the two obvious clefts right of Wall Climb I.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
5. Wall Climb II - 10m D
The slab to the right.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
6. Cleft II - 11m VD
Climb the right-hand of two clefts and the slab above, keeping left of a small block overhang.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
7. Wall Climb - 11m D
The narrow slab right of Cleft II and just left of a shallow corner, finishing by the right side of the block overhang.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
8. Left Corner I - 11m M
Climb the shallow corner bounding the left edge of a raised slab.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
9. Initiation Flake - 12m S *
Climb the raised slab in its centre.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
10. Right Corner I - 12m D
Takes the corner bounding the right edge of the raised slab.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
11. Meander - 12m D
Climb the slab right of the corner to finish on a ridge.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
In a recess between the first and second pinnacles lies a smooth slab topped by an overhang.
12. Bulge - 15m VD
Climb the slabby wall left of a corner.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
13. Left Corner II - 16m D
This follows the corner bounding the slab on the left.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
14. Inverted V 16m - HVS,4c *
Boldly climb the centre of the slab to the apex of the overhang. Pull through this to finish. Rather low in the grade, but poor protection if the overhand is gained directly.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1pt 1954/55
R.Owens, C.Edwards 00.00.1959
15. Spouse Crack - 16m S
Climb the thin crack on the right side of the slab to an overhang at the top of the corner. Pull over this to gain an easy groove. Follow this or move left to the crack above the overhang.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
16. Right Crack II - 15m S
Follow Spouse Crack above the bulge, then move left by the overhang and follow the definite crack system running up above it.
J.Talbot, R.Corbett 00.00.1959
17. Quartz Corner - 16m HS,4b
This follows the narrow slabby corner right of the recessed slab. Climb this to a calcite slab, then move right over an overhang and go up a crack to the top.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
18. Joggled Wall - 18m VD *
Climb the rough brown slab right of Quartz Corner, beginning just right of centre. Step left to avoid the overhang and enter a shallow corner. The left edge of the slab can be climbed at the same grade.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
19. Joggled Wall Direct - 18m HS,4a *
Takes the overhang Joggled Wall avoids.
C.Edwards, R.Owens, C.Andrews 00.00.1959
20. Left Edge 17m - HS,4b
This takes the left raised edge of the shiny slab right of Joggled Wall. Finish as for Joggled Wall Direct.
C.Edwards, R.Owen, C. Andrews 00.00.1959
21. Perseverance 18m HS,4b *
Climb the centre of the shiny slab by some thin, well protected moves.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
A series of grooves and ridges to the right provide a variety of descents, centred around Right Corner.
22. Right Corner - II 18m M
The smooth right-angled groove.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
23. Arch Slab 24m - VS,4c **
Start on the left wall outside the large cave, below a groove. Climb the groove until just above the lip of the cave. From a diagonal quartz break traverse right to the apex of the cave. Finish directly up the slab above.
R.Owen, C.Edwards, C.Andrews 00.00.1959
24. Under Milk Wood - 21m VS,4a *
An entertaining struggle up the slab within the left side of the cave. Follow the slab diagonally to a subsidiary cave and thread. Enter the cave and wriggle towards the light. Alternatively move the route to Pembroke, up the grade two or three notches, give it ten stars for quality and write tedious adventure stories about it. The largerframed will have to abseil off a tat before the top.
R.McElliot, R.Hoare 00.00.1984
25. The Steal 24m E4,6a *
Often greasy. On the right side of the cave is a subsidiary slab running down from the apex of the cave. Start
below the slab and gain it with difficulty, PR. Move up the slab to the apex, PR, then finish directly.
S.Lewis, A.Richardson, C.Curle 00.00.1987
26. Scavenger 26m - VS,4c ***
A classic line following the corner right of the cave. Make a tricky move up from a platform, to gain the corner,
which is followed by a mixture of slab and crack manoeuvres. Finish at a ledge and PB.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
27. Scavenger Variations - 26m VS,4c *
Climb in from the right wall of the cave to a spike on the left edge of the Scavenger slab and join the parent route. From a point where the route is level with the cave apex, struggle rightwards up a steep wall to easier ground.
J.Kerry - Start 00.00.1970
P.Greenwood, C.Ryan â Finish 00.00.1970
28. Hangel - 27m VS,4c
Climb Scavenger until level with the start of a small recessed slab to the left. Swing right along an overhanging ramp to reach a slab above. Follow its left edge to belay near the PB of Scavenger.
R.Owen, C.Edwards, C.Andrews 1954/55
29. October - 30m S
A poor route that starts at the foot of Scavenger. Move up right to a ledge at 3m. Now follow a blocky gangway left, to swing onto the face above and to the right. Follow a series of vegetated grooves on the right to the top.
G.Blake, J.Blundell 00.00.1972
30. Plumb Line - 45m D
Start at a slabby buttress at the foot of the third pinnacle. Climb the buttress and then the narrow raised slab to more broken slabs near the crest, which are followed to the top.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
31. Disappointment - 45m D
An obvious groove lies just right of the crest of Plumb Line. Climb this stepping right at two-thirds height into the narrower continuation groove.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
32. Consolation - 31m VD
This artificial but worthwhile line takes the slabs right of Disappointment.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
33. Traverse Of The Three Pinnacles - 76m M *
A good scramble from left (west) to right (east) keeping to the crest and taking in all the summits.
Unknown Pre-1970
34. The Battle Of Midway - 150m VS,5b
Traverse the crag from the left end, above the high water level, to gain Arch Slab. As for Arch Slab then step down into Scavenger, which is reversed to gain Scavenger Variations. Finish up Disapointment.
A.Berry solo 26.12.2000
35. Back Beat - 25m E3,5c *
A route taking the crack on the left side of the arch on the north (landward) side of the Three Cliffs Arch. Lower off rope advised.
M.Crocker, J.Harwood 01.05.1994
Pobbles Bay West
GR SS 53923 87770
A series of inlets and gullies lined with slabs provide a number of short easy routes at the far west end of Pobbles Bay (100m east of Three Cliffs). It is ideal for a visit with novices or when the tide is closing in on Three Cliffs. The first feature, lying some 75m right of Disappointment is a cave. To the right of the cave is a small slab with overhangs above its left side and a slabby pillar on the right.
1. Main Wall - 11m S
Climb a frequently wet corner at the left end of the cliff. Step left at half-height to finish up the wall.
J.Talbot, R.Corbett 1954/55
2. Gwyn's Route - 11m VS,5a *
From a pedestal at the base of main wall, climb through the three overhangs directly.
SUMC Pre-1973
3. Left Corner - 11m VD
Climb the shallow corner right of Gwyn's Route.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
4. Left Pillar - 11m VD
Takes the left side of the raised slab right of Left Corner.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
5. Pillar Route - 11m D
Climb the right side of the same slab.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
6. Right Edge I - 10m M
Follow the edge to the top.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
To the right (east) is a small gully. The first route is on the left arete.
7. Brant Minor 11m - VS,5a
Climb the arete on its left. Swing left onto a ledge and finish up the wall above.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
8. Brant Direct Minor - 11m VS,4c
Climb the slim groove immediately right and finish up the crack above.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
9. Barry Slapper - 11m E2,6a
The slim groove to the right gives a difficult problem with a bad landing.
G.Ashmore solo 21.05.2001
10. East Fissure Wall - 11m VD
Climb the steep back wall of the gully.
J.Talbot, R.Corbett1954/55
11. Shy Slab - 10m S
The steep narrow bubbly slab to the right of the gully is bold.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
12. Square Cut - 9m D
The next narrow slab to the right.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
13. Right Edge II - 9m D
The next arete to the right.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
14. Two Tier Slab - 9m D
This is obvious by its name and can be climbed by many variations at about the same grade.
Unknown Pre-1973
Right again is another deeper gully, with a slabby back wall.
15. Little Corner - 6m VD
Climb the slab between the left end of the gully and Fissure Direct. Variations are possible at the same grade.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
16. Fissure Direct - 10m VD
Climbs the obvious polished fissure and the slab above.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
17. Fissure Route - 9m D
Follow Fissure Direct until a step right gains the upper crack.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
18. Soap Gut - 10m VD
The slab right of Fissure Direct.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
19. Scoop - 9m D
From the scoop follow the cracks above.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
20. Girdle - 9m VD
The obvious line from right to left, starting at Scoop.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
21. Blind Crack - 8m D
The slab and blind crack just right of Scoop.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
22. First Slab - 9m M
Just right again lies the final route of the gully wall.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
23. Recessed Wall - 9m VD
This climbs the recessed wall just to the right.
Unknown Pre-1971
Pobbles Bay East
GR SS 54257 87498
This crag is on the far east side of Pobbles Bay and not immediately obvious. It is about halfway between where the path from the Southgate approach leads out onto the beach and the eastern headland (Shire Combe), just to the east (right when facing inland) of where a long rock platform 10m above the beach finishes, tucked into a cylindrical cove.
Cave Section
To the west (left) of the opening of the cylindrical cove is an obvious smooth slab.
1. The Groove - 12m M *
The groove left of the corner bounding the smooth slab.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
2. Slab Route - 12m S
Start up the corner bounding the left side of the slab, to gain a prominent slot out right. Swing right on this and finish
directly up the slab.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
3. Limpet Route - 12m HVS,5b *
Gain the vague groove in the centre of the slab from directly below. Hard to start and not well protected.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
4. Barnacle Bulge - 12m - VS,4c *
Gain the right arete of the slab via the small capped groove on its left. Tricky!
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
5. Insanity - 14m HVS,5b
A stiff boulder problem up the bulge 2m right of the arete gives access to an indefinite crack.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
6. Smalt - 15m VS,4c **
To the right is an obvious diagonal crack. Gain this with interest and follow it with superb moves.
G.Ashmore solo 20.02.1999
7. Blue Glass - 15m VS,5b *
To the right is an innocuous looking scoop. Somehow rock into it, and climb it more easily. Poorly protected.
G.Ashmore solo 20.02.1999
8. Corner Groove - 15m D *
The corner groove to the right.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
9. Twin Crack Slab - 15m M *
The cracked slab to the right.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
10. Jagged Edge - 15m HVD
The right arete of the slab.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
11. Blue Lights Crack 15m VS,5a
The steep bulging wall right of Jagged Edge.
J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
12. The Poseidon Enigma - 15m E3,6b
Scurry into the cave at the back left side of the cove. Just before the back of the cave make a technical mantle and rock up to a tenuous position on the slab. Work along the lip of the slab rightwards with help from the back wall, to gain a crack leading to the top.
A.Berry solo 26.12.2000
The back wall of the gully contains a through hole and slab, whilst the east wall has a prominent conglomerate overhang and is bounded on its south by a small zawn.
East Wall
13. Nearly Dropped Me Brolly 12m E2 5c *
On the east wall of the cove three parallel cracks slant up to a large conglomerate overhang. Follow the left-hand crack direct to below the overhang, then a steep sequence of moves on undercuts and jams lead rightwards and up to an urgent exit. Interesting climbing with good protection.
F.A. Nick Taylor, 30.8.04
14. Fourth Buttress - 12m VS,4c
The buttress just to the right of the conglomerate overhang, has a v-cleft with a crack above. Follow this, then step right where it steepens to finish up a shallow corner.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
15. Third Buttress - 12m D *
The corner 4m to the right of Fourth Buttress.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
16. Second Buttress - 12m VD
The next corner/scoop to the right of Third Buttress.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
17. Cracked Arete - 11m M
The arete with a cleft 5m to the right of Second Buttress.
Unknown Pre-1970
18. First Buttress - 10m M
The slab containing a flared crack to the right of Cracked Arete.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
19. Gully Slab - 9m D
Climb the landward wall of the small zawn bounding the right side of the area.
Unknown Pre-1970
20. Quergang - 45m HS,4b
Start at the back of the small gully on the east wall. Climb to a point level with the middle of the slab. Traverse the slab leftwards and then cross a series of corners and slabs until below the conglomerate overhang. Step left onto the middle of the slab to a vague crack, which is followed past a prominent hole to finish.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
Scoop Corner
About 100m on from Pobbles East, towards Shire Combe, is a recessed scoop like bay. At the back, facing west, a definite crack runs up and right, with two distinct corner slabs at different levels rising up and left from it.
1. Corners Edge - 10m VD
Start at the foot of the crack and step left onto the slab. Move left to the arete and follow this to finish.
Unknown Pre-1970
2. Lower Corner - 10m D
Starts as for Corners Edge, but swing through a bulge to gain and finish up the corner.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
3. Upper Corner - 10m VD
Climb the lower crack on the right.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
