Temple Bay Inlets

From SWMC Guidebook

Sea Walls and Temple Bay Inlets

Contents 1 PREAMBLE 2 BOLTING POLICY 3 ROUTES 3.1 SEA WALLS 3.2 TEMPLE BAY INLETS 4 FIRST ASCENTS

PREAMBLE

A pleasant area of small inlets east of the sea walls of witches point. Revisited and regeared recently.Sunny outlook and solid rock make this a must.

Approach by walking over witches head land(or if lucky with the tides across the beach) to the fisherman's ledges and scrambling down east before the neighbouring temple bay is reached.An abseil from the "wrasse" belay can often save the walk over the headland on the way back.

BOLTING POLICY

Bolting permissible ,rebolting with FA permission.

ROUTES

SEA WALLS

Immediately below the fishermans ledges on the very tip of witches are a number of walls and overhangs offering short sharp routes.Many of the routes were done decades ago and have remained unreported or unrecorded until now.Some of the old pegs and situ gear have been replaced. A fun place to be in the sun.

1. Betty Swallocks
   Bulging arete on left of platform.6m
   
   
2. It's just bollocks-E2, 6b
   The overhang, gaining and using the black chert hold.6m
   
   
3. Paternoster-E3, 5c
   The roof,situ threads.10m
   
   
4. Fisherman's friend-E2, 5b
   The roof and final crack.10m
   
   
5. Royle Headache-E3, 6b
   Gaining the gaping corner proves problematic,watch your head.10m
   
   
6. Jilters Wall-E2, 5c
   The narrow white wall,PR.10m
   
   
7. Professor's Crack-VS, 4b
   The crozzly ramp and crack.10m
   
   
8. Leg Over-E3, 6a
   Crozzly chert pulling.Swing left from the platform (TR) and surmount the final roof(PR)Womble to the top.10m
   
   
9. Pull Over-E2, 6a
   More of the same.Climb direct from the platform(TR)to the large ledge,womble up.10m
   
   
10. Hand Over-HVS, 5a
    The faint rounded corner gained awkwardly from the next step up.10m
    
    
11. Gloss Over-E1, 5b
    The right side of the wall left of the long rectangular beam of rock.10m
    
    
12. No push over -E1/2, 5c
    Gain the beam of rock on the left (Protection possibilities)then flail hopefully onto the top of the beam or if slender in girth squirm through,both methods are harrowing.10m
    
    

To the right is an easy escape chimney and a square crinkly block.

1. Eugene's Over-E1, 5c
   The centre of the block.5m
   
   
2. Cross Over-?, ?
   The right edge of the block.5m
   
   

Around the front again are-

1. "How Well It Flows"-HVS, 5b
   The short ragged crack,then amble to the top.5m
   
   
2. Arcana E4,5c
   The face right of the ragged crack.7m.
   
   
3. Lysistrata E5,6a
   Make first moves of "Arcana" to finger rail then hard moves into short crack.Straight up on two layaways to good finishing hold.7m.
   
   
4. Bridges End E3,6b *
   Somehow gain the pockets in the hanging arete of undercut.Proceed past the large rusting DRILLED peg with long moves to gain jugs.7m.
   
   
5. Undercut-E1, 5cThe obvious hanging corner.Eugene's sitting start is much harder.7m
   
   
6. Step Aside-E2, 5c
   The obvious rightward sloping crack,hard to start painful to continue.10m
   
   
7. Cold Shoulder-HVS, 5b
   Gain the ramp from the left(spike runner in horizontal break.Use pocket in short wall(left) to finish.10m
   
   
8. Breakout-HVS, 5a
   Pull into the hanging groove ,gain the ramp then take crozzly pockets on right.10m
   
   
9. Fast Flow 1-E1, 5b
   Start just right of the groove,gain and climb the brown flowstone(TR).10m
   
   
10. Fast Flow 2-E2, 5b
    From the low scoop gain and climb past the drilled thread in the flowstone.10m
    
    
11. Even Faster Flow E3,5b
    Even more threads,all drilled of course.10m.
    
    
12. Aristophanes plays with time-E3, 6a *
    At the right end of the undercut section are some black chert lumps directly under an old yellow thread.Ensure the integrity of your spine with large numbers of bouldering mats or some "thoughtful stick clipping".Devise and execute the sequence of slaps and pulls to reach the break and continue directly up the wall.Try Eugene's sitting start for full value.10m
    
    
13. Turn Back Time-E3, 5b
    Joins the two routes on either side.Step up as for next route then take a short traverse left to join the yellow "tat" of the previous route.10m
    
    
14. Down The Mists of Time-E2, 5b
    Step up just left of the faint line of Surprise and continue direct past the situ tat.10m
    
    
15. Suprise,Suprise-E1, 5b
    A faint line of flakes then direct above.10m
    
    
16. Waiting Game-HVS, 5a
    Glaringly obvious layback flake.10m
    
    

TEMPLE BAY INLETS

Immediately west of the scramble down at the extreme east end of the Sea Walls are a series of inlets culminating in the large bay.This new area has long forgotten rejeuvanated routes,new sports routes bouldering,bath water solos and more.Only the best of low tides however reveal all.

FIRST INLET

A smooth rocky inlet up which the advancing tide rises alarmingly. However the most easily approached and escapable of the inlets with the highest concentration of sport climbs.

1. Fools rush in no longer-Fr 6c+
   The obvious arete,tricky to start,painful to continue top out.15m
   
   Left of this is another mean little problem also geared with meaty P bolts
   
   
2. Long awaited-Fr 6c
   A short(1.5m) step across right from the obvious layback crack of Waiting Game.Perhaps even harder to start but easier to continue.15m
   
   
3. Lasting impressions E3 5c
   The hanging corner on the right.18m
   
   

Right of the hanging corner are:

1. Dross of 86-Fr 6b
   Tricky bulging start to juggy finish.18m
   
   
2. Sixty Eight plus one-Fr 6b
   Tricky moves to clip belay.18m
   
   
3. Life And Soul HVS,5a
   Cracks.18m.
   
   

Next to the scramble down is a wall containing three routes with a shared LO

From L to R are:

1. Blow me,another one-Fr. 5+
   The easiest around here,a few metres left of the "trio".Tricky start then easier to seperate belay.18m
   
   
2. Matt of the iron gland-Fr 6a
   The easiest start of the three,tricky at mid height.18m
   
   
3. Wreckers Bay-Fr 6a
   Tricky start delightful above.18m
   
   
4. Surly Temple-Fr 6a
   Trickiest start,easy above.Originally soloed by stepping across onto the wall now geared and climbed from the floor.18m
   
   

SECOND INLET
Continue east(R) along the foreshore until below the broad fisherman's ledge there are several crozzly crack lines (climbed already but unrecorded) until just level with the large seawashed block.

1. Achilles hasn't a foot to stand on Fr-6b+
   Opposite the boulder a faint arete with a "tooth "of rock at the start and a larger one near the top,now harder since the demise of "the pebble".6m
   
   
2. Euclid's Theorem Fr-6a
   Wall to the right sharing LO.6m
   
   
3. Gift Of The Gods Fr 6b+
   One bolt,no LO.6m
   
   
4. Gods of Long Ashton Fr 6a
   The left of the twin cracks.Bridgend bolt runners(BBR) i.e share with route on right.6m
   
   
5. The Dark Force of Glamorgan Fr 6a
   The right hand crack.BBR's(unlike the bristol equivalent these are in situ).6m
   
   
6. It's all Greek To Me Fr-5+
   Barnacle start,big sling LO easily retrieved and/or reach to LO on right.6m
   
   
7. One Less For The Spoiler Fr-4+
   The arete.6m
   
   

CAVE INLET
Continue around the corner east(right) to a small patch of sand and a taller section with a pillar and cave up and right.

1. Jericho E3 5c
   A deep water solo.Climb across from the fishermans ledge near the old sign board then up to a rubbly exit.15m
   
   
2. Debasement of Jericho VS 4b
   Could be a handy no water start to the previous or a solo in it's own right.The shorter of the two chimneys on the left.5m
   
   
3. Canaan Grunts HVS 4c
   The barnacled chimney starting from the sand grind your way up to the ledge.10m
   
   
4. Zacchaeus Repents Fr-6b+
   The crinkly prow breaking out early from next route.14m
   
   
5. Chargeable Event Fr-6a
   The barnacled scoop and corner to shared belay above ledge.14m.
   
   
6. Lips Off Your Shofarot Fr-6a * Just to the right a barnacled wall leads to bridging up the slabby groove.15m.
   
   

At a higher level is the other cave which gives a little more time if climbing on an incoming tide.There are no lower offs at present as it is assumed the sensible will use the routes to exit the area.Good belay on the ledge at the top of the crag,long slings could be arranged for lower offs.

1. Life In The Slow Lane Fr 6b+ **
   Swing on up the left arete of the cave.15m.
   
   
2. Project
   The roof,some bolts yet to be placed.
   
   
3. Quiet Flows The Jordan Fr-5 The blocky right side of the cave,swing on up to good belay at the top.10m
   
   
4. Sultan's Spring Fr-5+ A tricky bounce to start then jugs to the top.10m
   
   
5. Blowing The Ram's Horn VS 4c The faint book corner to the right.9m
   
   

Back down at sea level there is more

1. Climb A Sycamore Tree HVS 5a Easy scrambling leds to the hanging arete then step up the ledges to usual belay.12m
   
   
2. Tumbledown HS 4b As before then follow the ramp rightwards.12m
   
   

Right again and at a higher level above the sand is another long cave

FIRST ASCENTS

SEA WALLS

1. E.Jones
2. M.Crocker
3. R.Thomas G.Royle
4. D.Meek
5. R.Thomas G.Royle
6. R.Thomas G.Royle
7. Prof John Harwood
8. R.Thomas G.Royle
9. R.Thomas G.Royle
10. Prof J.Harwood

TEMPLE BAY INLETS

1. R Thomas G. Royle 1986
2. R.Thomas G.Royle 1987
3. R Thomas G.Royle 1987
4. R.Thomas
5. R Thomas 1993
6. R Thomas G Ashmore 10.05.2009
7. R Thomas (solo) 1986