Telpyn Point - Amroth

From SWMC Guidebook

contents

Carmarthenshire

Contents 1 TIDAL STATUS 2 BOLTING POLICY 3 PREAMBLE 4 ACCESS 5 DESCENTS 6 THE ROUTES 6.1 Fisherman's Wall 6.2 The Mollusc Wall 6.3 The Zawn 6.4 Tremors Wall 6.5 Cave Wall 7 First Ascents

TIDAL STATUS

Tidal. Progressively less so to the west. On neap tides, Mollusc Wall can be marginally non tidal.

A reasonable escape from the east side of Mollusc Wall / west side of The Zawn can be made by climbing carefully past the L.O. of Ma Moule Don't Like U Laffin, fencepost belays well back. There is also a short easy scramble(diff) a few metres left of the "zawn"

Don't get caught out by the tide in the Tremors / Cave area.

BOLTING POLICY

Bolting acceptable.

PREAMBLE

The climbing style in the Mollusc Wall area is similar to many of the south east wales sandstone quarries. However, it does contain a fairly unique feature, a sheet covering of quartz. The quartz can be brittle in places but increased traffic of late has broken off most of the loose areas. The grades may now feel a little soft.

The Zawn is steep and juggy with good rock quality, very much a fun area.

The Tremors Wall area is a bigger version of the The Zawn. This area is not for the faint hearted and provides the main challenges at the crag. The rock quality is fair to poor in a few places. Some of the holds get sandy, however a quick brush is all that is required to clean the sand accumulation off any crucial slopers. Many of the lines, as yet unbolted, look spectacular - watch this space for further developments.

The Cave Wall is the 'adventure' area. It is big and scary. The rock quality is 'variable' particularly on the cliffs lower half. Hopefully traffic will improve the situation (but we doubt it). Some of the easier lines on the right are more amenable but still should be shown a dose of respect.

Thanks to Gary Gibson for initially posting this information on his sports climbs website. The 'projects' are currently unbolted. As Gary has made the following information available in advance of climbing the projects, as a matter of courtesy he should be consulted if you wish to attempt them.

ACCESS

Best to take an OS map on a first visit.

1) Find Amroth beach, park there, walk east along the beach.

or

2) a) Pass through Amroth, past the pub (small bridge), up the hill and park in Layby on the right (metal gate and footpath).

b) Follow the newly laid gravel path down through woodland to a valley feature.

c) Take a fork left and go down steps to a small stream bridge, cross this to the other side of the valley.

d) Follow footpath until old fenceposts are visible on the cliffs edge through the low gorse bushes. You can see Worms head here if it is a clear day.

e) Go directly down, carefully, scrambling to the left side of Fishermans Wall.

The rock platform at the base of the crag is unbelievably slippery when wet - worse than ice. So be very careful.

DESCENTS

Mainly bolted lower offs, in western part of cliffs some routes walk off and descend by a scramble.(?)

THE ROUTES

Fisherman's Wall

1. Little Shrimp - Fr.6a+
   An isolated wall over to the left, behind a large square boulder at the foot of the descent scramble.
   
   
2. Small Fry - Fr.6a
   Keep to centre of wall,ledges on left out of bounds.
   
   
3. Cure For Crabs - Fr.5+
   Crackline on the left-hand side of the wall.
   
   
4. Wrasse - Fr.6b*
   A short fingery wall and shallow groove above.
   
   
5. Cast Adrift - Fr.6a+ *
   The wall just left of the cave.
   
   
6. Hook, Line and Stinker - Fr.6a+ *
   Steep wall to the right.
   
   
7. A Fisherman's Tackle - Fr.6b *
   Shallow groove line with a hard move through the overlap.
   
   
8. Sprats from the Captain's Table - Fr.5
   The wall to the right has a half height ledge.
   
   
9. Top Mouth Gudgeon - Fr.5
   The left-hand thin crack.
   
   
10. Leger System - Fr.5
    The next thin crack above the overhang.
    
    
11. Canny Ling - Fr.5
    The final thin crack just left of the large corner.
    
    

The Mollusc Wall

1. Tough Carapace - VS 4c
   The corner
   
   
2. Barnacles at Dawn - Fr.6c *
   The first line. Often Wet.
   
   
3. Pray for the Cray - Fr.7a+ **
   Leftwards trending crackline, often wet.
   
   
4. Lobster Bisque - Fr.7b *
   Vague crackline, often wet.
   
   
5. Oyster Party - Fr.7a *
   Technical moves away from gear at the top. Belay on right.
   
   
6. Vladimir and the Pearl - Fr.6c **
   The central line of the wall trends leftwards via a prominent crackline.
   
   
7. Shellin' Out - Fr.7b **
   Fine wall climbing.
   
   
8. King Prawn - Fr.7a *
   A series of thin cracks with good holds until the last move.
   
   
9. Man or Mollusc - Fr.7a+ *
   The wall just left of the corner. The last moves can be made to the left or right.
   
   
10. Telpyn Corner - HVS 5a
    Trad corner.
    
    
11. Mussel Man - Fr.5
    The arete.
    
    
12. Moule Mariniere - Fr.6a *
    The wall to the right.
    
    
13. Ma Moule Don't Like U Laffin - Fr.4
    Don't underestimate it, move left from the last BR.
    
    

The Zawn

30 metres to the right is a south facing wall set in a small zawn. This offers four worthwhile routes:

1. Taxi to the Ocean - Fr.7a **
   The impressive left-hand arete, gained from the left before transferring onto the overhanging side. Search for the hangers before embarking.
   
   
2. Diving for Pearls - Fr.6b *
   The centre of the fine overlapped wall.
   
   
3. Sea Fairer - Fr.6a *
   The overlaps above a groove start.
   
   
4. Glug, Glug, Glug - Fr.6a
   The last on the wall. Shared belay.
   
   

Tremors Wall

1. Hullabaluh - Fr.6a *
   The left-facing groove line exiting right.
   
   
2. Crest of a Wave - Fr.6c *
   The right arete of the groove gives a few excellent moves.
   
   
3. Keelhaul - Fr.6b+ *
   Good rock, hard through the overlap. Trend leftwards to the belay.
   
   
4. Plankwalk - Fr.6a+
   The thin crackline at the right-hand side of the ledge. Lower off into a puddle!
   
   
5. The Richter Scale - Fr.6b *
   The next crackline to the right.
   
   
6. Project The tiered overlaps to the right gained from the left-hand side of the next ledge system.
   
   The next routes start below the main section of overlapping wall from some convenient ledge systems. These can be gained easily at low tide and at mid-tide can be traversed to from the ledges below the last group of routes: not a good idea on an incoming tide.
   
   
7. Tremors - Fr.6c *
   The left-hand line piercing the overlaps to the right of a huge perched block has an easy start and short tricky section through the tiered roofs. The belay lies in the box-shaped recess at the top of the crag.
   
   
8. Dead Man's Shoes - Fr.7a **
   Tackles the lower tiered overlaps from a shallow groove to a sandy ledge. The tiered overlaps above provide sustained moves to gain a respite below the final bulge. This is tackled 2m right of the bolt via good holds and a swing back left to the belay.
   
   
9. Spectre of Love - Fr.6c+ ***
   A magnificent route. Tackle the roofs above the next groove line and continue direct through the twin overlaps to gain a thin crack system leading to the capping overhang. This is overcome by an easy long reach or a jamming crack, take your pick.
   
   
   File:Tremors wall topo.jpg

   Tremors Wall Topo

Cave Wall

1. Project
   
   
2. The Ego Sanction - Fr.6c+
   The right-hand side of the cave gives a terrifying hollow jug-filled experience (the pendulum like block is apparently locked in place). Sandy climbing up the headwall via a slim overlap.
   
   
3. Mental Massage - Fr.6a+
   The shallow groove line bordering the right-hand side of the cave gives pleasant climbing to a half-height belay.
   
   
4. Men from Boys - E2 5a, 5b
   Trad line via arete and groove to ledge finishing by fine jamming crack.
   
   
5. Safe Connection - Fr.5+
   The centre of the wall to the right via a thin crack system.
   
   
6. Innocents Abroad - Fr.6a
   Branches right to climb wall.
   
   

First Ascents

Fisherman's Wall

1. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
2. R Thomas, Nicola and Myles Jordan 2008
3. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
4. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
5. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
6. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
7. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
8. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
9. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
10. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
11. -R Thomas G. Gibson

The Mollusc Wall

1. -R.Thomas N.O'Neill
2. -G.Gibson
3. -G.Gibson
4. -G.Gibson
5. -G.Gibson
6. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
7. -G.Gibson
8. -G.Gibson
9. -G.Gibson
10. -Nick O'Neill
11. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
12. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
13. -R.Thomas G.Gibson

The Zawn

1. -G. Gibson R.Thomas
2. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
3. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
4. -G.Gibson R.Thomas

Tremors Wall

1. -G. Gibson R.Thomas
2. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
3. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
4. -G.Gibson
5. -G.Gibson
6. -G.Gibson
7. -
8. -G.Gibson
9. -G.Gibson

Cave Wall

1. -
2. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
3. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
4. -R.Thomas Stu Llewellyn 05.05.08
5. -R.Thomas 00.00.08
6. -R.Thomas