Taffs Well West

From SWMC Guidebook

Contents

Inland Limestone

GR123827 to 125825

Contents 1 BOLTING POLICY 2 PREAMBLE 3 ACCESS 4 DESCENTS 5 ROUTES 5.1 The Outer Pit 5.2 The North Wall 5.3 The Pinnacle 5.4 Diamond Wall 5.5 The Back Wall 5.6 The Slabs 6 FIRST ASCENTS

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.

PREAMBLE

Taffs Well West is an easily accessible sports climbing area, only 2 minutes drive from the M4.

The Outer Pit is the first wall encountered. There are some easier climbs here but due to the enclosed and shady nature of this section of crag it does require a drying out period.

The North Wall is the best limestone wall in the area. It is well equipped and has climbing of a very unusual and strangely satisfying nature. It can seep, but otherwise it stays dry in the rain.

The Pinnacle is the short triangular wall of solid honeycombed limestone (think Frankenjura) lying just outside of the main quarry. Very unusual. If this is your bag then the rest of the pinnacle will offer similar stuff from an easily set up top-rope.

Diamond Wall is a good wall of compact rock providing a few climbs at the harder end of the spectrum.

The Back Wall is an impressive sheet of vertical limestone. Most of the routes are now re-bolted and are accessible from the bottom of the crag. The routes have had few ascents so the grades are a little speculative.

The Slabs, in contrast to the main crag are very open, providing some thin (and sometimes scabby) slab climbing.

ACCESS

Map Of Gower and SE Wales

From the J32 of the M4 turn onto the A470 in the direction of Merthyr Tydfil. Take the first turnoff (Radyr/Taff’s Well) to reach the roundabout below the main Taff’s Well crag. Turn left to Radyr, then right at the next roundabout. Just over ½ mile along this road is a blocked off quarry track on the left, just where the road starts to rise. Park in a small housing estate on the right.

From the blocked off quarry track, take the signed footpath to the right and follow this uphill for 100 m to a T-junction at a wider track. Turn sharp left here, and continue for 100m to the quarry on the right to access The Outer Pit and The North Wall. Diamond Wall is best accessed by following the path round to The Pinnacle and dropping down in to the quarry. To access the routes on The Back Wall climb up the low anngle sabs on the right side of Diamond Wall or on the Left Side of The North Wall.

To reach The Slabs, from the main quarry, continue up the same track for 150m to reach a grassed over spoil heap. The slabs are obvious on the right. Unfortunately there is a swamp occupying the path so a better access route is from the parking area. From the parking area take the track to the left of the footpath to the main quarry (through the boulders). Follow this until the old railway bridge piers (which once spanned the valley) are directly down to the left, from here strike uphill generally trending rightwards until at The Slabs.

DESCENTS

All recently re-bolted (shiny 10 mm stainless expansions) routes have new lower offs. Assume descents for all other routes are by abseil.

ROUTES

The Outer Pit

This gloomy area is separated from the North Wall by a slabby and vegetated rib to the far left. Routes are described from right to left, as you enter the right hand side of the quarry.

1. Industrial Salvage - Fr. 5+
   Short mossy slab.
   
   
2. Sustainable Development - Fr. 5+
   On the right side of the crag are some shiny new bolts leading up to the pocketed headwall. 15m
   
   
3. Landfill Tax - Fr. 6a
   Same Lower-off as Sustainable Development.
   
   
4. Knacker’s Yard - Fr. 6a
   The wall to the right of Rag and Bone with a new lowered lower off. 15m
   
   
5. Wreckers Ball - Fr.6a
   Line of twizzles finishing on top of large block. Lower off a bolt on upper wall of Knackers(5+) or continue to its belay( 6a).
   
   
6. Rag And Bone - Fr. 6b+ *
   The wall to the right of Any Old Iron. 15m
   
   
7. Any Old Iron - Fr. 6c
   Take a direct line up the slabby lower wall to a good break, take the headwall directly. 15m
   
   
   

   

   The Outer Pit Topo.
8. Full Metal Jacket - Fr.6a
   Slabby route geared with 6mm Twizzle bolts.
   
   
9. Tinkers Dog - Fr. 6a
   New route, still a bit fragile in its centre.
   
   
10. Faster! Pussycat - Fr. 5+
    Start at the tree-stup, climb to ledge then scrammble up to a pocketed leaning wall. Lower-off above dusty ledge near top. Still a little dusty.
    
    
11. Honeybucket Supreme - Fr. 5
    A gentlemans route suitable for unwinding after an afternoon at the sword fencing club. Line of 16mm Uber-Bolts immediately right of the vegetation. Still a little dusty.
    
    
12. Affluenza - Fr. 5+
    The rib located between the outer-pit and north wall. Start on slab, up the rib and traverse right to lower-off above ledge.
    
    
13. Clart's Free Dragon Taxi Ride to Visit Nan Hussein - Fr. 5
    Start at Any Old Iron climb the obvious diagonal up and left clipping everyone elses bolts(yipee)to the ring belay of Adam Hussein's Nan.
    
    

The North Wall

The north wall is the bright clean wall - the best in the quarry - just to the left of 'The Outer Pit'. It contains the highest concentration of good, technical 7a to 7b routes in the area

The climbing is unusual for limestone, being insecure but with powerful cruxes involving undercuts (somewhat like Dinas Rock Roadside Crags).

The routes are described from right to left (as you enter the quarry from 'The Outer Pit').

1. Adam Hussein's Nan - Fr. 6b
   The white wall right of Bitter End gained easily from the mossy slab. Pull out of this with difficuty to gain the rib and lower off right of the sawn tree.
   
   
2. Bitter End - Fr. 6c
   Starts up the cleaned slab to the right side of the hollow flake. Above the flake, traverse right a little past a shallow groove, then move up the slab on hidden holds. Lower off to the left, shared with All's Well. 15 m
   
   
   

   

   Rob McAllister Climbing Norman Normal Photograph: Alan Rosier.
3. All’s Well - Fr. 6b *
   Start just right of the diagonal crack of Taffy Duck. Climb the cleaned slab to an obvious overlap at 9m, pull out right, and up into a shallow groove to gain a ledge. A high reach rightwards leads to a lower off, to the left. 15m
   
   CLOSED PROJECT
   
   
4. Taffy Duck - Fr. 6c
   Start as for Norman Normal to meet a diagonal rising crack. Climb the crack, to gain the lower off on Scream for Cream. Not bolted specifically for the traverse, however just enough are in arms reach. 18m
   
   
5. Norman Normal - Fr. 7a
   Probably worth a star for its unparalleled knee bar potential. Start 4m left of where the diagonal crack meets the ground. Pass the crack and up the centre of a barrel shaped rib. Climb directly through two overlaps, the upper and larger of which has a prominent hold on the lip. Once past the overlaps, trend rightwards to the BB. 17m
   
   CLOSED PROJECT
   
   
6. Security Plus - Fr. 7b *
   Powerful, well protected climbing, giving the hardest route on this wall. Start at the lowest point of the wall under a shelf at 2m. Gain the shelf and a quarry spike, then proceed up the wall to good undercuts. A very powerful move to more undercuts leads to a shakeout. A final difficult move leads to the lower off. 18m
   
   
7. Sink Or Swim - Fr. 7a+ **
   The wall left of Security Plus. A very good and generally consistent route with a bit of a sting in its tail. Shares a lower off with Trailblazer. 18m
   
   
8. Trailblazer - Fr. 7b **
   From the rattly undercuts move right onto the slab and up to two shot holes. Move back left a little to snatch a layaway and stand up positively to reach the break on Taffy Duck. Passing the last bolt requires some ingenuity. Step right to the BB. 16m
   
   
   

   

   Stefan Doerr onsighting GLC. Photograph: Alan Rosier.
9. G.L.C. - Safeasf*ck! - Fr. 7b **
   From the inset corner, trend rightwards through the overlaps. Once on the slab, grapple with shotholes then cut back left via a tricky rockover to gain bolt No 4. Easier but insecure climbing leads to a reassuringly juggy finish past the last bolt. Goldie Looking Chain lower off. 16m
   
   
10. Scream For Cream - Fr. 7a+ *
    Climb to the overlap, either move directly through this on powerful undercuts or traverse delicately rightwards and up. A rest and juggy climbing leads to a tricky exit and a hard to reach lower off to the left. 15m
    
    
11. Ice Cream Sunday - Fr. 7a+ *
    Blind and hard start leads to a desperate move through an overlapping bulge. Once established, on the slab move up to a big stretch for a large prominent flake. Finish slightly left to the BB. 13m
    
    
12. The Creaming Dream - Fr. 6c
    The slabby left-hand end of the wall. 12m
    
    
13. Squeeze for Cream - Fr. 4+
    Follow the pale streak left of Creaming Dream.
    
    

The next bolted line, branching leftwards from Squeeze for Cream is the access pitch to Digitorum Brevis.

The Pinnacle

Moving outside the quarry and back in from the south, at a higher level lies a pocketed pinnacle.

1. Clair de lune - Fr. 6a
   A short route up the pocketed face of the pinnacle
   
   
2. Mare Tranquilis - Fr. 5
   A short route to the right of the pocketed wall. Same lower-off.
   
   

Diamond Wall

Down and right of the pinnacle is a diamond-shaped wall with a diamond shaped sentry box feature in it's centre.

1. Bristol Beat - Fr. 7a *
   Leftmost line, starting halfway up the banking. Step onto the wall and pull easily over the roof, stretch right to a big pocket. Make difficult moves from the pocket up the wall and then traverse rightwards to the LO. 8m
   
   
2. Streaming Neutrinos - E6,6b *
   A short, power packed pitch up the diamond shaped bottomless sentry box, 2 BRs. Could be a fantastic Fr.7b+ with some more bolts. 13m
   
   
3. It’s a Black World - Fr. 7a *
   Climb to the right of the first few (4) bolts and then make a delicate leftwards traverse with a hard to clip penultimate (5th) bolt. Finishes straight up to a lower off above a ledge. Good. 13m
   
   
4. Howling Hadrons - Fr.6a
   The pocketed right hand route on The Diamond. A little green and muddy in the pockets but this does not detract from a generally fun outing. The original acsent started leftwards, moving to the obvious pinch/sidepull on It's a Black World, and is harder. 12 m
   
   

The Back Wall

The sport routes have been recently re-bolted. There is also new access pitch to the base of Digitorum Brevis, starting at the upper (left hand side) of North Wall.

1. Crooked Little Pinky - Fr. 6b+
   Romp up the pink flakes and crystal buckets traversing right near the top to join the belay of Raindogs. 25 m
   
   
   

   

   The Back Wall
2. Raindogs - Fr. 7a
   Use the fixed rope to gain the belay ledge. Directly up wall on flakes and side pulls. A tough move onto a large flake is followed by easier climbing on quartz pockets to reach the lower off. Be careful of loose rock near the top. 16 m
   
   
3. The Quartz Bicycle - Fr. 7a
   Climb to the prominent undercut flake a few metres left of its right-hand and pull onto the wall above. Technical moves lead straight up to a large quartz hole. Follow the left hand row of twizzles to the two hanger belay shared with Party Animal. Access up the fixed rope at far left of wall and traversing right on ledge. 16m
   
   
4. Party Animal - Fr. 7a+
   A route hijacked by later additions. From the belay shared with You Never Can Tell etc. gain the rib and pockets then follow the more spaced pockets left to gain the crystal ball niche. Follow the right hand line of glued twizzles to gain the shared (Quartz Bicycle) belay (2 hangers). Note, You Never Can Tell climbs straight up to its own belay of twizzles where this route traverses left. 18m
   
   
5. You Never Can Tell - Fr. 7a
   A fine wall pitch. Start just right of The Quartz Bicycle, staple belay on ledge can be shared for both, move up the shattered flake to gain a rib. Press on via a trio of good pockets, to reach good holds above, continue up the wall to a seperate belay. Rebolted but not recleaned. 18m
   
   
6. Palm Springs - E5,6a
   Start below a short ramp. Climb up pockets, TR, until a hard move gains the ramp, BR. Palm up the ramp to good finger jugs in the bulge above, PR. Continue direct, BR, step left and then finish direct, BR, on good finger holds. Gear old and rotten. 18m
   
   
7. A Million Destinies - E5,6a
   Climb the wall right of Palm Springs leftwards on pockets and balls, to reach the first BR. Climb the wall via an intricate move, PR, then leftward to the final BR. Move left to exit up Palm Springs. Old rotten gear. 18m
   
   
8. Stay Hungry - Fr. 7a+
   The crack now regeared with twizzles left of Digitorum Brevis. An easy (not yet cleaned) access pitch leads to a double twizzle belay below the crack. 15m
   
   
9. Digitorum Brevis - Fr. 7b+/7c
   A great wall climb, high in the grade. An access pitch has now been bolted up the easy-angled slabs. Swing up and left to crystalline pockets, then climb the smooth wall, via a weird pocket, to reach a bucket at an undercut. Pull straight up onto the wall above, then continue directly until moves left past a sapling lead to a new lower off. Cleaned and rebolted. 18m
   
   

The Slabs

The slabs are about 5 minutes walk further on up the path from the main quarry or better accessed from the parking area (see access notes). They have recently (May 2009) been re-bolted.

1. The Boney King of Nowhere - Fr. 5
   Far left of the crag, hidden behind the big tree. The third bolt will soon be moved to the right to sustain interest
   
   
   

   

   The Slabs - central routes need checking
2. Once Upon a Time - Fr. 6a
   Slab climbing to the right hand side of the ivy. The route is still shedding some skin (careful!).
   
   
3. Can The Can - Fr. 6c
   Right of Once Upon a Time. Move right to join Palm. 21m
   
   
4. Palm - Fr. 7a *
   Takes the centre of the slab. Climb a shallow orange groove to small ledge, move up and right, and continue to a deep slot, move left and finish directly. 21m
   
   
5. Neil Kinnock’s Last Stand - Fr. 7a+ *
   As for Palm but move right at the slot. Continue up the headwall, traverse left at the top. 23m
   
   
6. Chinese Whispers - Fr. 6b+
   This route climbs the right-hand edge of the slab. Start as for Palm and climb rightwards to a small ledge at 9m, move back left and climb the slab. The rock above the white mined hole is currently too poor to be climbed, needs knocking off. 24m
   
   
7. Glenys Encounters Her First Limp Member - Fr. 6a
   Takes the right edge of the slab skirting the mined hole.
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

The Outer Pit

1. R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 06.06.2010
2. R. Thomas 02.10.2009
3. R. Thomas 00.00.2010
4. R.Thomas 00.00.1998
5. R.Thoms etc. 21.05.2010
6. R. Thomas 07.10.1998
7. R. Thomas, J. Bullock, M. Ward, M. Crocker, G. Gibson 13.12.1987
8. G. Gibson 00.05.2010
9. R. Thomas 00.00.2009
10. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 06.06.2010
11. D. Emanuel 06.06.2010
12. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 11.06.2010
13. R. Thomas 00.07.2010

The North Wall

1. R. Thomas 27.06.2010
2. R. Thomas
3. G. Gibson, R. Thomas, M. Ward, M. Crocker 06.12.1987
4. G. Gibson 28.04.1991
5. G. Gibson, R. Thomas, M. Crocker, M. Ward 06.12.1987
6. G. Gibson, R. Thomas 20.09.1990
7. G. Gibson 21.03.1998
8. M. Crocker, M. Ward, R. Thomas 06.12.1987
9. A. Rosier 15.06.2010
10. M. Ward, M.Crocker, G.Gibson 13.12.1987
11. G. Gibson, R.Thomas 14.10.1990
12. G. Gibson 21.03.1998
13. R. Thomas etc. 21.05.2010

The Pinnacle

1. D. Emanuel, R. Phillips 21.06.2009
2. D. Emanuel, R. Phillips 21.06.2009

The Diamond Wall

1. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 03.04.1988
2. M.Crocker, G.Gibson, M.Ward, R.Thomas, J.Bullock 13.12.1987
3. G.Gibson, M.Ward, M.Crocker, R.Thomas, J.Bullock 13.12.1987
4. R. Thomas 12.05.2010

Back Wall

1. R Thomas, N O'Neill 00.07.2010
2. R McAllister 22.07.2010
3. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 20.04.1991
4. A Sharp, P Lewis 00.00.1987
5. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 14.10.1990
6. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 30.05.1989
7. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 30.05.1989
8. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.07.1987
9. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 14.10.1990

The Slabs

1. D. Emanuel, K. Davies 16.06.2009
2. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987
3. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.04.1987
4. G.Ashmore, R.Lawrence 10.07.1992
5. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.06.1987