Sugardaddy Gasworks
From SWMC Guidebook
Sugardaddy Gasworks
Contents |
Bolting Policy
Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentionists permission. New sports route allowed. Please help your selves to the projects, even the bolted ones. All 'projects' can be considered free for the taking.
Preamble
A small quarry of good sandstone. The back areas take a long time to dry.
Access
(NGR: E: ,N: )
Located in the woods to the rear of Beddau Coking Works. Park by the housing in front of the Coke Works. The track along the west side of the former Coke Works is a Public Right of Way (but not for vehicles). Follow this to the rear of the coke works where the road goes through a gate, curves left. After the curve a track goes up the slight slope. Follow this through some trees. The track continues and a left branch leads eventually to a pond - ignore this branch - soon after the path crosses a stream (often dry) and after one can see a slight valley to the left. Follow this into the quarry. If you pass an old electricity building you've walked too far.
Descent
All routes have lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.
Routes
Entrance Wall
1. Little Licker (5)
Short wall in left side of quarry.
2. Lolita's lolly (6a)
Delicate pockety.
3. Barnacle Bills' Masturbatarium (Project) (6c?) D. Emanuel
Sustained climbing up the thin crack.
4. Beef Honeycombe (6b)
Pocketed wall above the stump, over the small roof on its left side.
5. Daddy still loves you (6a+)
Follow the series of small ledges to the left of the arete, over the small roof.
Around the arete lies the taller, slightly overhanging Second Wall
6. Project 6 D. Emanuel
7. Project 7 D. Emanuel
9. Yosemite Clam (A1/A2) D. Emanuel
The leaning crack at the back of the second wall suffers seepage but offers entertaining aid climbing. Ascend the crack past the small roof to lower-off. Requires thin knifeblade pitons.
Right-hand Slabs
In the right of the quarry lies a large slab.
10. Project 9 (6c?) D. Emanuel
The delicate route up the left of the slab
11. Spidermans' Special Web Soup for the Removal of Persistant Bat Stains from Robin Down - Project 10 (6a?) D. Emanuel
The pocketed line up the small overlap running up the slab
Back Wall
Further delights may reside in the damp vegetated recesses at the back of the quarry
First Ascents
1. R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 21/05/2011
2. R. Thomas, D. Emanuel 14/05/2011
3. Project - D. Emanuel
4. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 14/05/2011
5. D. Emanuel, R. Thomas 14/05/2011
6. Project - D. Emanuel
7. Project - D. Emanuel
9. Project - D. Emanuel
10. Project - D. Emanuel
11. Project - D. Emanuel
