Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr
From SWMC Guidebook
Contents |
BOLTING POLICY
Quarried sandstone.
PREAMBLE
The Rust Curtain is one of the best sandstone walls in the area. It comprises a flat, slightly overhanging face, which contains mainly crimpy and technical routes with much individual character. The crag faces west so gets the shade in the morning and the very last rays of sun in the evening, which lights the crag up with a warm amber glow.
The crag seeps during the winter but from Easter to October is generally one of the driest crags, a few routes can even be climbed in the rain.
Midges are annoying in the still summer evenings (not as bad as Llanbradach tho) so bring suitable clothing or mosquito repellent for comfort.
Climbing here is tolerated by the rangers of the picturesque Sirhowy Valley Country Park but the following should be noted to keep it this way:
- The gates at the main entrance close at 4:30 to 5:30pm. Please don't antagonise the rangers by leaving here at the last minute as they try to clear the car park 15 mins before closing.
- Try to be quiet during park open hours - no swearing, shouting etc.. as families use the footpaths that pass very close to the quarry.
ACCESS
From the south, take J28 of the M4 and follow signs for Ebbw Vale on the A467. When the roundabout is reached where the A4048 to Blackwood (Wattsville) branches, take the first exit which leads to the country park. If coming from the north, A4042 from Blackwood, either park as for Wattsville or continue to the roundabout junction with the A467.
There are 4 possible parking spots:
1) At the car park at the base of the quarry. This must be vacated in the late afternoon.
2) At the Sirhowy Valley Country Park entrance, just off the Full Moon Roundabout. Walk down the asphalt road to the quarry.
3) At the public car park in Wattsville. Walk northwards and down towards the base of the valley, cross a stream which leads onto the rugby pitch. Cross the rugby pitch to a large gravel car parking area. (follow directions below).
4) Take a right (coming from south) in Wattsville just before you pass over a not-so-obvious bridge that crosses a steep and narrow wooded valley. Take an immediate and sharp turn left, to pass under the bridge. Follow a single lane road to reach a large gravel covered parking spot overlooking the rugby pitch. Follow the road on foot, until you see a large farm house and take a footpath to the left. This footpath passes over a magnificent sandstone masonry river bridge and leads you directly to the quarry.
DESCENTS
All routes have bolted lower offs.
THE ROUTES
Described Left to Right
The Rust Curtain
1. King Krab - Fr.7a
The pumpy crag traverse; requires some reasonably long Q-draws and is better attempted with two ropes. Climb Butcher Heinrich to the break and follow it rightwards to the end of the wall. Finish up Aedan's Arete.
2. Gott in Himmel - Fr.7a
A tough start snakes anti-clockwise around the blank initial bulge to an obvious projecting hold. From here crank up to an easier finish.
3. Butcher Heinrich - Fr.7b *
Forget starting beneath the first staple! Stick clip it and start as for Gott in Himmel. An obvious undercut shows the way to crimps out right on the face. A good rest at the break is then followed by a massive move to a creaky flake and easy finish. Lower off of Gott In Himmel.
4. Strange Little Girl - Fr.6b+ **
The classic warm-up of the quarry, follow the crack.
5. King Ada - Fr 7b **
Swing rightwards on a line of finger jugs or bust a gut in the jam crack down to the right, either way hit the obvious flake. A series of good but spaced holds lead to a blank section and a triangular pocket. Use the pocket creatively to hit a rounded break, or a jug above. Finish at the lower off of Strange Little Girl.
5a. King Ada / Strange little Girl combination - Fr.6c **
A popular and worthwhile combination which avoids the top crux moves on King Ada. Start up King Ada and shuffle leftwards at the break to finish up Strange Little Girl.
6. Skanderbeg - Fr.7b *
Start as for King Ada but trend rightwards. Make hard and committing moves to pockets at half height, you're nearly there, just squeeze the biscuit out left and reach up to the break. Lower off to the right, shared with King Zog.
7. King Zog - Fr.7a+ *
Sometimes wet but usually climbable. Make a hard move to pass the roof and gain a rest. The face above isn't as blank as it appears from below so crimp up to reach a poor pocket and easier breaks.
8. Face - Fr.7b+
Could do with more ascents and holds. A very testing start leads to a ledge over the roof. From the ledge, fail to find any holds, climb the adjacent route and traverse back to the lower off.
9. Mawr, Mawr, Mawr - Fr.7a **
Classic and very pumpy crack climbing that saves the crux until last. Best to clip stick the first staple and traverse in from the right.
10. The Crimson King - Fr.6c+ *
A stiff and technical start leads to a rest at half height. The upper wall is currently missing the crux hold. Lower off to the left on Mawr Mawr Mawr.
11. Sunstone (A.K.A The Mark of Zorro) - Fr.7a *
Make an implausible crux move to get off the deck and tricky moves thereafter. Reach the diagonal crack for a rest and finish on increasingly good holds. The chain is just to the right, which attempts to force you to finish on the final cleaned ledge above it.
12. VIP Lunge - Fr.6c
Make a long, long reach from the hole, then move leftwards to a minature tower. Move back rightwards and make another long reach to the lower off.
13. Hostility Suite - Fr.6c
Nice and not so steep. Pass the strip overhang to a delicate slab. The final break contains a not-so delicate fist jam which helps with the big stretch to the lower off.
14. Aedan's Arete - Fr.6a+
The other warm up route. Not as easy as first appearances suggest and definitely different to the rest of the wall. Arm bars and leg hooks can be employed to ease the strain. Lower off shared with Hostility Suite.
Right Hand Wall
1. Brucifer - Fr.6b *
Swing up to reach a blank looking face. A perfect undercut to the right should not be missed and neither should the sandy pocket above. Remember that there are really good holds in the break above the chain.
2. Take Your Pants to Heaven - Fr.6c
Tricky crack and burly overhang.
3. Unknown
The first bolt is missing, Project?
4. Knickerless in Hell - Fr.6b
Not the best lower off.
5. Holey Moses - Fr.6a
Overcome the overhang.
6. Where the Arc is It? - Fr.6a
A good start but crumbly finish. Shares a lower off with previous the route.
7. Temples of Cwmaman - Fr.5
Short.
8. Arch of the Last Craven Ant - Fr.5+
Hmmmm... Creaky. The last bolt line using the large horizontal flake to reach the arete of an overhanging block.
Western Walls
1. Deaf as a Post E4,6b
At the right-hand end of the quarry is a blind crack in a friable wall. Start below the centre of the wall, scramble up to the highest ledge to just below an overlap. Pass this via a huge reach, (OLD)BR, to a short crack. From the top of the crack swing left to good holds and an ab-station.
First Ascents
Main Wall
- A.Rosier 28.06.2008
- R.Thomas, S.Coles 09.05.1996
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 00.00.1989
- R.Thomas, M.Crocker 00.00.1989
- G.Gibson 07.04.1996
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 11.06.1989
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 11.06.1989
- G.Gibson 06.04.1996
- G.Gibson 06.04.1996
- G.Gibson 06.04.1996
- A.Rosier 27.07.2007
- R.Thomas, G.Gibson 06.04.1996
- R.Thomas, G.Gibson 06.04.1996
- A.Rosier 24.07.2007
Right Hand
- A.Rosier 14.05.2005
- A.Rosier 21.05.2005
- R.Thomas 2007 ?
- R.Thomas 2007
- P.Wardman 15.05.2005
- P.Wardman 15.05.2005
- A.Rosier 15.05.2005
- R.Thomas 2007
The Western Walls
- M.Crocker, R.Thomas 00.00.1989
