Sheriff Quarry, Maerdy
From SWMC Guidebook
Sheriff Quarry, Maerdy
Contents |
Bolting Policy
Retro-bolting allowed with first ascentonist permission. New sports route allowed. Place bolts high so kids can't tamper with them.
Preamble
A compact sports quarry. Easterly facing and slightly overhanging dries quickly with an unfortunate proximity to Maerdy. High first bolts so a clip stick is essential.
Access
SS 96941 98477
E: 296941, N: 198477
As the A4233 enters Maerdy it turns sharply right. At this point turn left up School Road, past a bus depot, and then turn right on to Mile Street/Edward Street. Park here (if you dare). From the northern end of Edward Street a track leads winds upwards towards the forest. As the track reaches the edge of the forest a steep track lead up into the forest. Follow this steep track directly into the quarry. A pillar marks the quarry entrance.
Descent
Access to and from the top of the quarry is difficult due to a band of loose rock above and all routes have lower-offs or adjacent lower-offs.
Routes
1. The Sheriff of Loves Brown Canyon (6b+) D. Emanuel (03/06/2009)
Very sustained climbing up a twisting crack becoming increasingly difficult until a mud-filled shot hole offers a breif respite.
2. Maerdy Gra (6c) D. Emanuel, R. Thomas (26/04/2010)
Scramble onto dusty ledge to start sustained climbing on very spaced out cracks, finger jams and pockets. Relentless.
3. Project R. Thomas
4. Kremlin Capers (6b+) R. Thomas (26/04/2010)
Sustained fingery climb to fist jam.
5. Little Moscow - Fr.6b R. Thomas (03/06/2009)
Face climbing in the right of the quarry.
