Pwll Du East
From SWMC Guidebook
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TIDAL STATUS
All problems are tidal. Allow for 3 hours either side of low tide
PREAMBLE
Pwll Du east
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A limestone pavement stretches to the distant weld of sea to sky
For those who like ticking UKC logbooks the problems can be found in 'Pwll du'
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ACCESS
Drive to Bishopston, pass the Joiners Arms and pass over speed bumps. Park at Bishopston post office on the left hand bend and walk down Pwll Ddu Lane. Alternatively on weekdays park at south gower rugby club a little further down the lane. Follow the road for 15 mins to a gate which leads to Pwll Ddu Bay.
THE BOULDERING
The Grand Canyon
This is at the east side of the bay. The warm up wall contains a couple of easy lines and the tooth a couple of harder lines
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1&2. Various ways up
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4. Straight up the front |
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Cave 1
This is the first small cave round from the headland. The problems are actually on the overhanging but juggy wall to its right. This is a good warm up area
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1. Sit start from the back. 2. Sit start up the protruding block on jugs 3. A long steep traverse to get the juices flowing
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Cave 2 The second cave has an smooth looking impending wall on its right hand side. It is actually littered with amazing pockets which make the problems relatively straightforward but with satisfying long moves. The face is hard to photograph properly so please use the descriptions! This wall is shower resistant!
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1. swanky trousers V0 * : At the right hand side of the wall there is a superb hand pocket Use this, a left facing sidepull and another higher pocket to get to the obvious large tooth at 10ft. From here either continue on razors or use the other side of the wall to bridge up 2. Sit start as for 'No Sweat' . Use a rounded sloper for the left hand to reach a deep pocket and/or crimp . From here move left to a good crack/pocket or, harder, another sloper and thence to an obvious tooth at 10ft. Finish as per last route V1(easy version) , V3 (harder version) 3. No sweat V0 *: The obvious flake line from a sit start 4. A long reach from a crozzly hold into a jugtastic porthole . From here swing up left and on to the top. V0 for tall, V1/2 or short 5. A line to the left utilises two pockets close together in the middle of the wall
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Jammed boulder gulley
This excellent zone is obvious from the massive van sized boulder jamming it.
Sentinel gulley
This equally excellent gully is just to the right of Jammed boulder gully. At the right entrance the sentinel stands against the winter storms.
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1. Up through the widest point in the overhang via a good horizontal finger break and a chicken head. Heelhook right to finish 2. Much easier than it looks up the rail on the right of the sentinel
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1. From a sit start at the back of the cve work out left and up on good jugs 2. Swashbuckle V2 * From a sit start work out right initially on reasonable jugs, then on harder moves , first right, then left to a prominent undercut or ,for the short, a finger/thumb scrag, leading to the top
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Cave 3
The final Cave 30m East of Jammed boulder gulley.
