New Tredegar

From SWMC Guidebook

South Quarry

OS Ref: 140040

This is the first and smallest of the three quarries when walking in from New Tredegar to the south. Like its capacious northerly neighbours it faces west making it much sunnier than the encumbrance of crags that face east. However, it doesn’t have any bolts.

All routes should be assumed to fall under the dagger symbol, indicating no repeat ascents, no confirmation of grade or route quality.

The first route climbs the majestic orange tower enviously graffiti’d with ‘4Skin’.

SkinFull - E3 5b

Climb the centre of the tower to an upwardly impeding and strenuous rock-up right onto the nose. Spaced, good cams protect. 10 m

MJC, JH (12.4.09)

The next five routes take the fine wall in the centre of the quarry, under a large oak tree. The defining feature is a scoop at two-thirds height across which is a horizontal break.

Quarter Sentry-Box - E1 5a

Step off a pointed flake (nice landing) and up the sentry box to the break. Pull up and exit right above the scoop. A left-hand start just right of the silver birch tree is possible (4c). 8 m

MJC, JH (12.4.09)

Scoop Think - E2 5b *

Climb up the left rib of the scoop and exit direct. Small cam and wires in the break. 7 m

MJC, JH (12.4.09)

Blade - E3 6a *

Climb the right rib of the scoop, rock up left into it (straight past a peg runner) and exit on the left as for Scoop Think. 7 m

MJC, JH (12.4.09)

Drips - E2 5b

Start under the oak tree. Take a crack and using finger-holds to its left work up around the left side of the tree. Vital 1-2 cams in the break. 7 m

MJC, JH (12.4.09)

No Time for a Break - E2 6a

Follow the break from left-to-right (or vice versa!) either finishing up Drips or across NT Yoof. Well-protected, and not too high as a solo. 12m

MJC (12.4.09)

NT Yoof - E2 5a/b

Climb the centre of the next wall on the obvious line, passing some good breaks for cams. A harder (V4) start up the blank wall just right is a good problem in its own right. 7 m

MJC, JH (12.4.09)

Finally, there is a small undercut buttress extreme right; here you can bag two boulder-problems;

Hooked (V3), the left arête.

Fingers Bored (V4) the roof on – yes you’ve guessed it – flat finger-edges.

North of the second (middle) quarry at New Tredegar is a line of (unquarried) outcrops with a load of boulder-problems/micros which culminates in quite a respectable 9m tower (4 routes) just before the nothernmost of the quarries. There doesn't look to have been any activity on the second (middle) quarry and the third and largest (northern) quarry is the one containing the mystery (?) staples and through-bolts.