Navigation Quarry - Cilfynydd
From SWMC Guidebook
GR086937
There are Ravens nesting between the routes Fly Me To The Moon and A Blank Abstract on the MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS at Navigation Quarry. The BMC RAD will be updated to advise climbers to avoid these routes and the ones either side until the end of May (Ravens usually fledge much earlier than other bird species).
Some climbers were asked to leave the quarry by a local shepherd a couple of days ago to avoid disturbing the birds, however BMC advice when it come to Ravens is to avoid the routes immediately either side of the nest, but we tend not to agree to complete restrictions on a cliff for Ravens as they are fairly common and usually very tolerant of climbers.
See BMC RAD Database - Navigation Quarry
Contents |
BOLTING POLICY
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.
PREAMBLE
A wonderful aspect and high quality rock were probably the reasons that The Navigation was one of the first sandstone quarries to be developed, way back in the early 80’s.
The crag lies 1 ½ km north of the village of Cilfynydd within Craig Evan-Leyshon Common at approximately 200 m OD. The main wall overlooks the wooded flanks of Pen y Foel to the west, However the grassed spoil heaps at the quarry’s entrance block this view from the floor.
The enclosed amphitheatre like layout means that even on the coldest clearest days of winter The Navigation is a suntrap like no other in the area. Unlike many of the nearby quarried sandstone venues, the seepage lines dry quickly and the midges are scarce, two real bonuses.
The wide back wall is nearly 25 metres high and is predominantly slabby with a number of distinct ledges, formed by intermittent shale bands. This means the climbs tend to contain bouldery sections with good rests between them. As such, the grades of the climbs here can be baffling on first acquaintance, although after a while you will find they relate to each other well. Those with strong fingers and flexible hips will flourish here whereas the stamina monsters will find their talent counts for little.
Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken, where appropriate, as many of the PRs used to protect the original ascents have been stolen. Some of the sport routes require the odd friend or nut placement on easier sections as they have been bolted sympathetically to avoid clashing with the best traditional lines. Belays are generally at the top of the crag so lower–offs can be arranged with some long slings or a short length of rope.
The Navigation is a wonderful place to climb with some strong natural lines, climbed using traditional techniques, standing shoulder to shoulder with bombproof bolt protected test pieces. The range of grades allows mixed ability groups to enjoy themselves equally and the vibe here is always friendly.
See you there.
ACCESS
Drive up the A470 to the roundabout beyond Abercynon and go back down the A4054. Just by the first set of traffic lights encountered from the north (or first out of Cilfynydd coming from the south) is a raised parking area on the opposite corner. Park here.
Go through the metal gate opposite and follow the old asphalt road/track until it widens and trees thin. A tight switchback through gorse bushes leads up the hill for 50m and then switches back again. Head for a telegraph pole visible over the brow and follow the old tram line up until the quarry comes into view on the left.
DESCENTS
Bolt and spike belays are available at the top of the crag and some of the routes have individual bolt belays. Walking off either side of the quarry is straightforward in the extreme.
THE ROUTES
LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL
- Leftover - VS, 4c / Fr. 4
The first bolt line on the left hand retaining wall of the quarry accessing a high arête. The wide shale band at half height spoils an otherwise solid climb.
- Expanded Mole Groove - HVS, 5a
Unknown, but undoubtedly overgrown.
- Gold Block - E2, 5b / Fr. 6a
Start 3 m left of the main corner. Climb to a threaded shot hole at 5 m. Climb the arête above to a large ledge at 15 m Step left to finish up a steep groove and crack.
- variation Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c. Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.
- variation Gold Block alt. finish - Fr. 6a+ At 15 m head left to climb an overhanging crack, to chain L.O.
- variation Kestrel Groove - HVS, 4c. Step right to avoid arête and rejoin Gold Block at 15 m.
MAIN WALL – LEFT HAND SLABS
This wall starts off with a broad slab, capped by a grassy terrace at 18m. Rising up from the grassy terrace is a steeper wall, with a prominent left to right ramp (the original finish to Squash Match). Left of the ramp is a long overhang, a vertical crack and gold bolt beneath mark the line of The Elastic Retreat.
Trad routes on the main wall require a good selection of cams for the breaks and numerous pockets.
- Peg Bristol - E5, 6a
Very tenuous and scantily clad – the first wall is effectively a solo. Start 2m right of the corner of Gold Block under a black sheet (euphemism for a waterfall after heavy rain). Step up to ledges and hand place a peg (long blade) in a small pocket at full extension. There is an obvious inset hold in the slab: climb immediately to its left with a big scary rock-up using a micro-edge and finger-tip mono. From the break above (gear) take big holds and then smaller ones boldly to the left-most diagonal crack. Follow the crack (gear again) to the big grass ledge under Elastic Retreat.
- Half Man Half Machine - Fr.6b
Climb the groove to the break and shuffle leftward a little. Stretch over the bulge (don't miss the kneebar), rock up onto the slab and finish up the crack. L.O.
- Code of the Road - E1, 5a
Climb the blunt rightward trending arête to a thin shale band. Continue boldly up the slab and crack, a Large friend in pocket is your first (and only) runner (PR missing). From the grassy ledge take the stepped corner on the left, then the rightward slanting crack.
- Rockover Beethoven - E2, 5b / Fr. 5+
Climb the crack bounded pedestal and head for a large oval pocket in the slab. Tackle the rightmost of the cracks above, to a graceful (or ungainly) exit onto the grassy ledge. The original route finished up the Squash Match ramp.
- The Elastic Retreat - E4, 6b
Gain the grassy ledge. Climb the steep wall left of the Geeny scoop (PR / BR) to a roof. Place good Friends in pockets on the lip of the roof and overcome it using very thin holds. L.O.
- The Bolt Fund Blues - Fr. 6b+ *
An eliminate start narrowly avoids using the cracked pedestal of Rockover Beethoven and any of the holds left of its first two (shared) bolts. Gain the top of a short pyramidal nose, beneath the first bolt. Finger nail edges and a mono lead to a heinous stretch for a narrow rounded ledge. Mantle the ledge then make a long move up and right from a big pocket to a good edge. Climb easily to a shared finish with Squash Match Direct. Abseil station above.
- Where Did You Get That Bolt - E3, 6b / Fr. 7a
Right again is an obvious pocket next to an old 8 mm BR. Gain this dynamically (run?), then make a second big dyno up and right for a flat edge. Move up to the small cave on Squash Match, and finish as for that route.
- Squash Match - E1, 5b / Fr. 6a
Move leftward to a small cave at 6m. Follow a thin crack above then move left into a ‘V’ notch, (numerous bolts). Mantle onto the grassy terrace. Climb the left to right trending ramp to finish (PR missing), or better and harder, directly up the blunt arête passing 3 BRs.
- Blood, Sweat and Beers - Fr. 6b *
Start below a weakness in the mid height overhang. Find crimps above the roof and stretch leftward to a hidden borehole. Traverse carefully rightward across a shale band to the base of a shallow groove (possible small friends) and finish up this. Abseil.
Chris Wyatt on Goblin Girl Fr 6b+ (circa 2006)
- Geeny - E1, 5b
The slab left of the corner, bold to the ledge at 9 m (cams). Climb the corner above (BR) and finish up the blocky headwall.
- Death Wish - E2, 5b
The blunt arête bounding the slab on the right has a hard move at 8 m. The steep headwall has big holds. This grade relies on a side runner pre-placed in the crack of Fly Me to the Moon.
- Fly Me to the Moon - VS/HVS, 5a **
Start right of NOG JHONNY. Gain the obvious big flake crack and follow it to pocketed strata and a thin crack above. A BR at 13 m protects the crux moves over the roof and onto the headwall, which is plastered in superb jugs.
- A Blank Abstract - E3, 6b / Fr. 7a
Thin moves are required to pass through CHOC MAVINC (2 BRs). Easier climbing up the slab (BR) leads to a 'seat'. Skirt the shaky looking overhang to the right to finish up a thin crack shared by Man Or Mouse. Large friends and small wires give bomb-proof protection between the bolts. L.O.
- Man Or Mouse - Fr. 7b *
Very bouldery and 'sportingly' bolted. Start below a black drainage streak. Make two tasty rockovers to pass a BR and lunge rightward to gain the shale band. Follow the slab directly above on small edges (2 BRs) to gain a ledge and a simple run out finish. L.O.
- Let Me Play Among The Stars - E2, 5c **
Take the flake crack to the right of Man Or Mouse to a ledge, and then the right-hand of the two parallel cracks (2 BRs), crux. Finish up the centre of the slab above via some shot holes (new PR and a good horizontal wire).L.O. on Deus ex machina
CENTRAL WALL
The terrace and shale band at 2/3 rd’s height now peters out. The wall becomes more continuous and increasingly steep with a mid height overhang marking the routes Western Front Direct and Eastern Bloc Rock.
- Deus ex machina - Fr.6c
Lurking above the arched overlap is a tricky little slab. From the shaly ledge, a long and pleasant romp leads to a slight steepening at the finish. L.O.
- Black Magic - E3, 5c
Climb boldly up a thin blind crack to the right of IAN (PR missing). Directly above are a series of ledges and breaks PR (on Ladybird). Tackle the centre of the bulge using a thin crack. Finish just left of the capping overhang. Lots of gear but all a bit marginal.
- The Relaxed Ladybird - Fr. 6c **
Start at PLOD and follow a blind crack to gain a ledge at 8 m. A couple of thin pulls are required to pass the bulge at half height (crux). Above the final strip roof is a large pocket, inches below the top of the cliff. An abseil station lies a few metres back from the cliff edge.
- Ladybird - E2, 5c
Now fairly well protected. Start as for the previous route (BRs) to a leftward trending ramp (PR). At the end of the ramp make an awkward move to a ledge (PR). Further ledges lead rightward to a blank looking wall (large old PR and BR). Finish up the obvious corner forming a weakness in the capping overhangs.
- Relax - E2, 5b
From where Ladybird saunters off left, move up to a BR, then right following a line of jugs across Great Expectations, then up and right into Western Front to finish.
- Great Expectations - Fr. 6c+ **
A series of entertaining boulder problems between ledges. Leave a bit of gas in the tank for a pull over the final roof. L.O.
- Western Front - E4, 6a
Climb a groove between JIMMY and SPUD. Go up easily rightward (PRs missing) to a ledge. Move back leftward above the overhangs passing a borehole and finish up the obvious crack in the headwall. L.O. behind a tree.
- Western Front Direct - E5, 6a / Fr. 7a ***
Bill Gregory and Alan Rosier on Western Front (Fr 7a) and Eastern Bloc Rock (Fr 7a+)
The route of the quarry. Climb easy ground to the roof, then make long dynamic moves from side pulls to breach it. Attack the crack in the headwall with gusto, as the difficulties ease with height. L.O.
- Eastern Bloc Rock - E5, 6b / Fr. 7a+ **
The other route of the quarry. The big slab with three consecutive overhangs. Take the overhangs direct, the second and narrowest of which provides the main difficulty. Abseil.
- Tears for Smears - E1, 5b
Start as for Western Front and continue rightward to reach the ledge shared by Goblin Girl and Let Me Know What... Ascend the corner for 6m then pull out right to the arête. Finish rightward.
- Goblin Girl - E3, 6a / Fr. 6b+ *
A bold clip up. Follow a line of bolts on good rough rock to land on a ledge, beneath a leftwards facing corner. Ascend the wall just left of the corner with trepidation (hard to clip bolt + old PR). Finish through the overhang above. This route used to reach the ledge from the main corner of Let Me Know What.... Abseil.
- Let Me Know What Life is Like - HVS, 5b
Climb the obvious (and rotten) corner in the centre of the crag. Better started as for the previous route at a slightly harder grade. Make technical moves to finish up the better corner at half height.
OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA
Another quality section of crag containing possibly the finest traditional E1 and E2 on sandstone. The first few routes all start on a blocky buttress, which has some poor gear and rock but easy climbing. However, this is more than compensated for by fine slab above.
- Evening Light - E2, 5c *
The right arête of Let Me Know What Life Is Like. Take the blocky buttress until under the arête proper (good wires around to the left). Ascend the arête (PR and hard to clip BR) and finish to the right.
- Save a Mouse Eat a Pussy - E3, 6a *
Follow Evening Light to the PR. Find a borehole (often water filled) to get established on the slab. Climb delicately through the centre of the scoop, with some real difficulty (old BR). Finish direct.
- Mouse Trap - E3, 6a / Fr. 6b+
On the right hand side of the central buttress is a small V groove at 5 m. Climb through this awkward groove (BR) and run it out up easy broken ground (optional wires). Make difficult and nervy moves up to clip a high bolt, avoiding the use of a water filled borehole on Save a Mouse if you can? A line of bolts is then followed up the right hand side of the scoop. Abseil.
- The Owl and the Antelope - E2, 5c **
The route they all aspire to, a classic knee trembler. Start up the Mouse Trap groove and continue to the start of the mid height roofs. Pass a prominent borehole (long thread) to reach the left side of a small cave. Move slightly leftward into a shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) and exit this rightward, with care, to get established on the slab. Two horizontal cam slots up and right lead to an easy finish through a shallow groove.
Variation 1 Hoot-of-it - E4, 5c/6a * From the shallow niche (Hex/2.5 friend in borehole) traverse boldly rightward along the very lip of the roofs (without protection) to an arete and aim for the safety of large pocket above. A last long stretch from the pocket leads directly to the top.
- On Jupiter and Mars - E1, 5b **
A route of the highest quality. Follow one of the previous routes to the start of the mid height roofs. Enjoy a well protected traverse under the roofs and a hard move to exit at their right hand end. Don't miss a good borehole thread at a small triangular roof as the easy finishing slab is unprotected.
- Over The Moon - E3, 5c *
Start 3m left of Crash Landing, and climb rightward, and over a shaly roof. From the left side of the ledge ascend a short tower and overcome the main roof 2m right of the Owl thread. Arrange protection (Friend 1/2 in incut handhold below the small pocket and/or Friend 2 1/2 in Owl shot-hole). Traverse rightward, on the very lip of the roofs to an arete, large pocket and thence the top.
MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION
- Crash Landing - Fr. 6a
Start below a shallow groove at 8m, gain and leave it rightwards, with some trepidation. Follow the bulging slab and run it out to meet the finish of On Jupiter And Mars.
Tom Palfreman at the top of - The Owl and the Antelope E2 5c
- Ol’ Blue Eyes - E3, 6b
Right of Crash Landing is a prominent boss of rock, with a BR at 12m. Gain the boss and make a very long move up to good holds. Finish direct with poor gear.
- Heart Throb - E1, 5c
Right again is a corner at 12m. Climb directly up to this on loose rock to 2 BRs. Make a tricky move up the corner and swing left onto slabs to finish. A full range of cams up to 2.5 protect adequately.
- Sheepbone Wall - HVS, 4c
The broken groove to the right of Heart Throb.
- Feeling Sheep - E3, 6c / Fr. 7b
A perverse activity up the bulge right of Sheepbone Wall. One very hard move, without much merit. BRs to tree.
RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL
This is the shorter east facing wall which is shady and cool in summer.
- Micro-wire Corporation - E4, 6a
Much better than it appears, this is the orange arête left of Big Spider Groove. The gear is as suggested, but with some chunkier stuff higher up. Launch up the arête, using a pocket to grab a flat hand-ledge on the left. Move up and right and finish up a groove. 10m
- Big Spider Groove - HVS, 5a
The obvious green corner. Finish at a double bolt L.O. or climb out leftward to a belay stake.
- Alco-troll - Fr. 6a
Start under the nose of the last arête in the quarry. Climb to first bolt, swing left to a big pocket and continue delicately via the slab, left of the arete. L.O.
- Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - Fr. 7a *
Gritesque. The last arête in the quarry, taken on the right hand side throughout. Essentially a V4 boulder problem. L.O.
THE TRAVERSES
- Acid House Trip - E2, 5c
Follow Heart Throb, then move left into On Jupiter at its final overhang. Pull over to a hole (Friend 3½), move down and traverse the lip to the slot on The Owl. Go down to a ledge then round to the BR on Save A Mouse. Swing round the arête to the ledge on Let Me Know. Finish up this or as for The Gang Of Four.
- The Gang Of Four - E3, 5b
From the tree on Let Me Know move left to where the PR on Tears For Smears should be. Continue up and left, PR, then descend to a crack, PR. Up Ladybird to the ledge then keep going left to finish diagonally left of a faint crack in the headwall.
- String Theory - Fr. 6b, Fr. 6b+
A logical and interesting left-to-right girdle traverse, shunning much of the potential ledge-walking, and shamelessly making use of the BRs on vertical routes. Take a few cams and wires.
1. - Fr. 6b Climb to BR2 on Rockover Beethoven. Traverse right along a narrowing footledge, climbing up and rightward onto the Deathwish arête. Continue across Fly me to the Moon and clip BR3 of Man or Mouse. Traverse delicately right past 2BR on Let me Play and continue along a hand-ledge (PR) to take a belay on BRs on some good ledges on The Relaxed Ladybird. 45m.
2. - Fr. 6b+ Make a hard move up and right on Great Expectations. Traverse right along the lip of the roof of Western Front, under its crack, into the groove of Let me Know. Hop around the arête of Evening Light (2PR) and balance across the scoop of Save a Mouse Move up and traverse across The Owl slab at the level of its slot, gaining a hand-sized pocket left of On Jupiter. Move diagonally right to exit. 30m.
FIRST ASCENTS
LEFT HAND RETAINING WALL
- Leftover - 1989 - G Lewis, S Blackman Retrobolted 2007
- Expanded Mole Groove - 1984 - G Lewis, C Hurley
- Gold Block - 1984 - G Lewis, M Learoyd - Retrobolted 2007
- Kestrel Groove - 1984 - G Lewis (solo)
- Variation 2 - 2007
MAIN WALL - LEFT HAND SLABS
- Peg Bristol - M Crocker, J Harwood - 05.04.2008
- Half Man Half Machine - A Rosier - 18.03.2012
- Code of the Road - 1984 - M Learoyd, C Hurley
- Rockover Beethoven - 1988 - B Brewer - Retrobolted 2007
- The Elastic Retreat - 1989 - G Barker
- The Bolt Fund Blues - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
- Where did you get that Bolt? - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
- Squash Match - 1983 - G Lewis, M Learoyd, L Foulkes - Bolts added 2007
Direct finish - 2006 - A Rosier, P Rogers - Blood, Sweat and Beers - 2007 - A Rosier, R Giles
- Geeny - 1989 - G Lewis, G Barker
- Death Wish - 1984 - M Learoyd (solo)
- Fly Me to the Moon - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman - Bolt added 2007
- A Blank Abstract - 1992 - G Ashmore, R Lawrence - Bolts added 2008
- Man or Mouse - 1989 - A Sharp, P Lewis
- Let Me Play Among the Stars - 1982 - G Lewis, S Blackman, C Heard - Bolts added 2007
CENTRAL WALL
- Deus ex Machina - 24.03.2012 - A.Rosier
- Black Magic - 1988 - T.Foster
- The Relaxed Ladybird - 2007 - A.Rosier
- Ladybird - 1983 - L.Foulkes, G.Lewis
- Relax - 1984 - A.Richardson, G.Lewis
- Great Expectations - 1988 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
- Western Front- 1983 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis
- Western Front Direct - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - Bottom bolts added 2007
- Eastern Bloc Rock - 1988 - M.Crocker, R.Thomas - New bolted start 2007
- Tears For Smears - 1984 - G.Lewis, R.East
- Goblin Girl - 1989 - G.Barker, G.Lewis - New bolted start 2007
OWL AND ANTELOPE AREA
- Let Me Know What Life Is Like - 1982 - G.Lewis, Steve Blackman
- Evening Light - 1984 - G.Lewis, H.Griffiths - new bolt added 2008
- Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy - 1989 - G.Lewis, A.N.Other, G.Barker
- Mouse Trap - 1992 - G.Lewis, P.Jones - Retrobolted 2008
- The Owl And The Antelope - 1983 - G.Lewis, C.Heard, M.Learoyd
- Variation - 24 March 2008 - Martin Crocker, John Harwood
- On Jupiter And Mars - 1982 - G.Lewis, S.Blackman
- Over the Moon - 2008 - A.Rosier, G.Lewis
(The first ascent of this complete route used three bolts - one protecting the move through the roof and two on the slab - at a grade of E2. The bolts were removed by John Harwood as they were placed unknowingly after M Crocker climbed The Owl and the Antelope Variation but prior to it being publicised. The route, in it's entirety, has not yet had a bolt free ascent and so the grade is speculative).
MAIN WALL - RIGHT HAND SECTION
- Crash Landing - 1983 - G.Lewis, D.Renshaw - Retrobolted 2007
- Ol’ Blue Eyes - 1989 - G.Barker, M.Kidd
- Heart Throb - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart - New bolt added 2006
- Sheepbone Wall - 1983 -G.Lewis, M.Learoyd
- Feeling Sheep - 1997 - G.Ashmore
RIGHT HAND RETAINING WALL
- Micro-wire Corporation - M Crocker (solo) - 05.04.2008
- Big Spider Groove - 1983 - G.Lewis, L.Foulkes
- Alco-troll - 2008 - A.Rosier, R.Giles
- Principles of Rock Mechanics, Part 1 - 2008 - A.Rosier
THE TRAVERSES
- Acid House Trip - 1989 - G.Lewis, D.Hart, G.Barker
- The Gang Of Four - 1985 - M.Learoyd, G.Lewis, C.Pound, T.Jordan
- Possibly Martin Crocker, solo with back-rope (Soloist), though some parts will have been climbed before, specifically the second half of Pitch 2. 75m(5.4.08)
