Mountain Ash
From SWMC Guidebook
GR 057 985
Contents |
BOLTING POLICY
New sports routes allowed.
PREAMBLE
A good, popular crag that received a complete face lift in 2008.
Basically the quarry is a large, west facing, box.
The rock is mostly very good quality sandstone, which dries very quickly, apart from the routes in the main bay.
Almost all the sports routes are well equipped, although some have only a single BB at present (this is noted in the descriptions).
The left-hand section contains two fantastic orange walls and is a good sun trap in winter.
The right-hand section by contrast is shady and can be damp after heavy rain.
Between these two sections are some short walls with some easy slabs for the novice sports climber and a short terrace - the Sports For All Wall. In the very centre of the crag is a long and continuous slab which is very worthwhile.
There is also a poor natural sandstone edge, up and left from the quarry proper and a recently re-discovered better one some 300m to the right.
(Please stop stealing lower-off crabs from this crag).
ACCESS
If on foot, take the train to Mountain Ash, and leave the station onto the first road encountered. Turn left, and follow the road out of the town for about 400m to a track crossing through an old works. Go through this and continue over a footbridge. From the end of this footbridge cross the road and walk straight up to the main road (A4059). Turn right and proceed for about 400m to the last few houses in Mountain Ash. Turn left onto the estate and immediately left again, then take the first right to an obvious track leading uphill past some garages. Where the track veers off right, scramble up the bank to a path and follow this rightwards to enter the quarry.
If coming by car, simply follow the A4059, and take the first turning right after the first few houses to reach the same spot. If you pass a garage on the left you have gone too far. It is possible to park on the estate.
THE ROUTES
THE QUARRY
The routes are described from left to right (as approached).
Broken Walls
At the extreme left end of the quarry are some poor, broken walls.
1. What’s The Arc De Triomphe For Then? 9m E1,5c [RETRO-BOLTED]
Left of the main section of this orange wall is a section of poorer rock, guarded by vicious brambles in summer. At the extreme left is a short slab with one hard move past a BR and no real belay.
J.Williams 00.00.1992
2. The Old Firm 18m E3,6a * [RETRO-BOLTED]
Follow the centre of the rib/pillar to the right to a wide terrace, BR, PR. Follow the short crack above to finish, PR. PB, but it is better to belay on the tree above.
C.Evans 00.00.1992
3. Coggers Lane (John You Prick) 9m E2,5c [RETRO-BOLTED]
To the right is an overlap, which is climbed past a BR to the terrace. Finish up The Old Firm or belay and walk off right.
C.Evans, P.Green 00.00.1992
4. Beef Tasting Strawberries 6m S
Unbelievably poor. The short square pillar just left of the good orange wall, climbing past an extremely poor bolt.
A.Jenkins 00.00.1992
The Orange Walls
The prominent orange walls and aretes at the left hand end of the quarry are superb and a real suntrap in winter. The first three routes start on a terrace, 4m above quarry floor level.
1. Outspan - Fr.7a+ **
A real quality route, which takes the left-hand line on the orange concave wall. Very fingery and committing to gain bolt No.2. Using the arete, stay on the face all the way to the lower off. 11m
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 25.09.1988
2. Hot Cross Guns - Fr.7b+ *
Links Outspan with Ripe and Ready giving a more sustained (HARDER) route. Start as for Outspan, climb to borehole hold at 3m (clip 2nd bolt on an extended Q-draw) move right to a bolt between the two routes and join Ripe and Ready. The corner right of Ripe and Ready is NOT used.
M. Richards and A Sharp 14/Mar/2009
3. Ripe And Ready - Fr.7b+ *
Unbelievably hard for those with a short ape index. Start just right and follow the corner (easier) or climb direct to the second BR. Either way arrive at the third BR and make an absolutely massive dyno from a poor egyptian to good holds and an easy finishing wall. 14m
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 27.10.1988
4. Pastis On Ice - Fr.7a+ **
The striking arete. Start by using a sloping sidepull and mono, below the first bolt hanger (originally the arete was gained by traversing in from the right). At the top of the arete is a very long and committing move from a rattly, book-like flake. 12m
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 25.09.1988
(Direct) E.Travers-Jones 23.05.1995
5. Cointreau - Fr.7a+ **
Start as for Pastis but move up to a wide bridge and a series of spaced pockets. 12m
M.Crocker, J.Harwood 17.04.1994
6. Choice Cut - E2,5c
Just right of Cointreau but starting at a higher level is a thin crack. Top out. Poor. 8m
P.Donnithorne, A Price 07.11.1988
7. Blacker Than Black - Fr.6c+
A boulder problem just right. Two staples and no lower off. 6m
M.Crocker, J.Harwood 17.04.1994
The Short Walls
At at lower level in front of the last routes are some shorter walls.
20. Branch Manager 6m E3,6c Fr7a
Starting from the quarry floor is a steep wall forming the left hand side of a cleared bay. Left of the main orange section is a single bolt marking this route (use a clip stick)!
R.Thomas 31.03.1996
21. Totally Stumped 8m E2,6b Fr6c+
A naughty chipped route up the vague scoop left of the rounded arete.
R.Thomas 21.03.1995
22. Molybdenum Man 8m E3,6a Fr6c *
A splendid little problem up the aforementioned rounded arete. Deceptively hard.
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 27.10.1988
23. Ferndale Revisited 9m E5,6b Fr7b *
A horrendously technical wall, just right of the arete, which has got considerably harder since the loss of some holds. Wimping out left along the scoop near the top reduces the grade.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 22.04.1989
24. Dusk 11m E4,6b Fr7a+ *
Another short problem just left of the main corner. BB right over the sloping top. This route has become progressively harder since the first ascent as loose flakes have dropped off.
E.Travers-Jones 21.03.1995
There is now an overgrown gully, right of which are a series of amenable slabs.
25. I Came 12m E2,5c Fr6a+ *
Right of the angle of the corner is a slab with a headwall. This route takes the left-hand side of the slab and subsequent headwall.
R.Thomas 22.03.1995
26. He Sawed 6m VS,5a Fr5
A short but worthwhile line up the shorter section of the slab just right.
R.Thomas 22.03.1995
27. Into The Valley Of Death 6m S,4c
Right again is a long continuous section of short slabs, separated from the last route by an earth-filled chimney. This route mantles awkwardly onto the right-hand arete of this chimney, then steps up and left along a natural line of ledges for 3m before finishing direct. Unprotected.
G.Ashmore 26.03.1995
28. I Conkered 5m E1,5c Fr6a+
The first bolted line to the right, 1BR.
R.Thomas 22.03.1995
29. Taking The Pith 5m S
A route up the slab to the right.
R.Thomas 22.03.1995
30. Bring Back The Birch 6m VS,4c Fr4
The slab 6m to the right, 1BR.
R.Thomas 22.03.1995
31. Under The Axe 9m E2,6a Fr6b+
Just to the right is a prominent v-groove at the top of the slab. Climb the rib down and left of this past 2BRs, stepping into the v-groove at the top. BB.
R.Thomas 22.03.1995
32. No Barking Up This Tree 8m VS,5a Fr4+
The wall just to the right with one tricky move. 1BR, BB.
R.Thomas, P.Donnithorne 23.03.1995
33. A Sight For Saw Eyes 9m E1,5c Fr6a+
The wall at right angles to the main slab has a dynamic start. BRs, BB.
R.Thomas, Paul Donnithorne 23.03.1995
34. Carpet Bombing 9m VS,4c
Just to the right is the square arete of Tragedy. This route takes the slab left of Tragedy to the same BB, passing some chopped BRs. Please do not replace these as they interfered with the unprotected (and better) Tragedy.
Llantrisant Deal Team 00.00.1995
35. Tragedy - E1,5a *
The square-cut arete to the right is unprotected and rather good. single bolt belay and tree. 9m
M.Crocker, M.Learoyd, R.Thomas, P.Lewis 09.10.1988
36. The Future Holds - Fr.7b *
The wall immediately right, with a tricky middle section and a horrific rockover to pass the top bolt. Requires rebolting and a lower off. 11m
M.Crocker 16.10.1988
Central Section
The routes hereabouts are also slabby but have a considerable height advantage over their neighbours.
Belgium - VS,4c
The loose and vegetated groove system bounding the big slab in the centre of the quarry. 27m
M.Capron, G.Lewis 00.00.1987
Narcissi - E1,5b *
Climb Belgium for 8m, then move right to a groove in the centre of the slab, old PR. Move up left to a crack, which is followed to the upper slab. Gain the final loose v-groove from the left. 27m
G.Lewis, J.Boyle 00.00.1987
Rising Sap - Fr.6a+ **
The obvious bolted slab. Pull through the roof at 3m and pad up the slab to finish up the left side of the finishing arete. Currently the belay only has one staple with a mallion. 26m
R.Thomas 00.00.1995
Weeping Stump - Fr. 5+
To the right of Rising Sap is another long line of bolts up a slightly loose groove. 24m
Roy Thomas, Nick Goile, Gareth Tucker, Alan Rosier 03.08.2008
Around the corner is a steep shadowy wall.
40. A Clip Round The Year - Fr.7a+
Some odd holds have ‘disappeared’ to create a harder and better proposition. 50m right of Rising Sap, before the obvious Sport For All terrace is a corner, with a steep left hand wall, split by a diagonal crack low down. Climb the wall left of (but using) the crack, past 3BRs, crux. Instead of following the holds out right, pull straight up on a couple of big crumbly pockets past a poor PR to a BB. 9m
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 03.03.1991
41. No Chips Round Here - Fr.7b **
Better. As for the last route, but follow the bolts out right on superb but widely spaced buckets to a BB. 17m
G.Ashmore 12.07.1995
42. Helmet Man’s Day Off 11m S
The left line up the slabs at right angles to No Chips.
M.Hirst 13.07.1995
43. Ant Frenzy 11m S
The right line.
M.Hirst 13.07.1995
44. Homebase 25m E1,5a
Right again and just before the start of the Sport For All Terrace is clean slatty arete. Climb this (creaky in places) to a meadow. Scramble off up the back wall somewhere.
G.Lewis, G.Barker 00.00.1989
Sport For All Terrace
Just right is the start of Sport For All Terrace, a ledge starting 6m above the quarry floor. Rising from it is a short fingery wall.
45. Little Polvier 25m VS,5a
The corner bounding the left end of the terrace and the subsequent crack.
G.Lewis, A.Keward 00.00.1989
46. Slap Happy 9m E4,6a Fr6c+
The first route starting from the Sport For All Terrace. Take a thin left-trending crack past BRs to an awkward step right to the BB.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 11.04.1991
47. Sport For All 9m E5,6c Fr7b+ *
The ‘blank’ face to the right is not as blank as it at first appears, especially given the strangely jagged ‘solution’ pocket high up. Quite thin.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 31.03.1991
48. Sporting Supplement 9m E2,5c Fr6a+ *
A smart pitch up the scoop to the right, with a devious finish.
P.Lewis, A.Sharp 13.04.1991
49. Sunday Sport 9m E3,5c
The thin flake to the right has a bold start, 1PR.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis16.04.1991
50. Abdominal Showman 9m E3,6a Fr6b+
The flake left of the corner. This is supposedly Fr7c if climbed directly, but this is too really too contrived. The arete to the right is the top section of the next route.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 13.04.1991
Main Bay
Back down on the quarry floor, is the obvious right-angled main bay, with some long, quality routes, as well as some dross.
1. A Certain Peace - Fr6a+ **
Start from the quarry floor, below the arete that separates Sport For All Terrace from the main bay. Climb the wall under the arete, to gain the arete, which is followed to its end. Finish up a short crack to a BB. 14m
R.Thomas, M.Crocker 27.10.1988
2. Misadventure - Fr.7a **
A superb, rather well cleaned route up the wall to the right of the arete and left of the diagonal crack, is climbed awkwardly to the BB of A Certain Peace. 14m
R.Thomas 12.07.1995
3. A Far Cry From Squamish - E4,6a
The diagonal crack. 15m
M.Crocker 22.07.1990
54. The Theory And Practice Of Glue Sniffing 17m E4,6a Fr6c+ •
Follow Jetlagged for 5m, then swing left below the ledge to gain an arete. Slap up the blunt arete to gain a ledge and slim corner, then follow the slim corner and continuation flake to the top.
G.Ashmore 12.07.1995
55. Jet Lagged 17m E3,6a Fr6c *
A bouldery crux section up the wall left of the main corner, gives access to a large resting ledge. Finish easily up the wall above.
M.Crocker 22.07.1990
Sennapod Corner - HVS,5a *
The big right-angled corner crack is clean (2009). Step left at the top to avoid poor rock. 21m
P.Thomas 00.00.1970
57. Whiter Than White Wall 18m E5,6b Fr7a+ *
The wall right of the corner has one very hard move (a dyno) that is much easier for the tall. Good but needs a serious brushing.
M.Crocker, M.Ward 21.05.1988
58. A Load Of Rubbish 20m E2,5b *
The series of cracks right of Whiter Than White Wall, PRs. Better than it looks.
A.Richardson, A.American 00.00.1984
59. Valleys Initiative - Fr.7a **
The best route up this wall. Follow a line of pockets and coal breaks to a hard finishing section. Hard to on-sight and the 2nd staple is 'way' left. 20m
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 04.10.1991
60. Ain’t As Effical 20m E3,5c
The dirty crack to the right. Not as stable as it looks. A couple of PRs might be handy!
M.Crocker, M.Ward, G.Jenkin 21.05.1988
61. Grave Concern - Fr.6a+
The wall to the right of the crack. 18m
R.Thomas, E.Rees 00.00.1998
62. Final Plot - Fr.6a+
The wall right again. 18m
R.Thomas, E.Rees 00.00.1998
63. The Entrepreneur 18m HVS,5a
Climb the ramp and wall 6m to the right. PR, tree runner. Abseil from the tree.
M.Ward, M.Crocker, G.Jenkin 21.05.1988
NATURAL BUTTRESS - NORTH
The natural buttress running leftwards from the left-hand side of the quarry. Starting in a small bay in the centre of the natural section.
1. Spittle Jacuzzi 8m HVS,5b
Climb the overhanging crack on the front left-hand face.
Cardiff University MC c.1975
2. Fist In Vice 8m HVS,4c
The crack on the left-hand side of the bay proper.
Cardiff University MC c.1975
3. 20 Years In Llangattock 8m E1,5c
Climb the starting crack of Getting Fatter, but pull left to climb the wall on slots.
G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 27.05.2003
4. Getting Fatter 8m VS,4c
A left hand start to the chimney starting up the jam crack.
Cardiff University MC c.1975
5. The Spam Tree 8m S
The large chimney.
Cardiff University MC c.1975
6. Another Toss Gobbler 8m VD
Climb the centre of the square wall in the back of the bay.
Cardiff University MC c.1975
7. Crocker’s Pot 8m S
The centre of the buttress to the right.
Cardiff University MC c.1975
8. Pork Pie Driller 8m S
The arete just to the right of the overhangs.
Cardiff University MC c.1975
NATURAL BUTTRESS - SOUTH
There are a couple of rediscovered edges about 300m south of the quarry. To gain them, follow the path up the right bank of the quarry, then follow a fence and path off right until opposite the first of three red factory buildings on the valley floor. The first buttress is directly below, the second about 50m further on.
The first buttress is a small, square lump with an undercut front face.
64. Dr. Foster And Confused Of Gloucester 7m VS,4b
The left side wall of the buttress.
G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 27.04.2003
65. Vertical Drain 7m HVS,4c
The left-hand side of the arete.
G.Ashmore solo 27.04.2003
66. 20,000 Llangattocks Under The Sea 7m HS,4b
The undercut crack on the right.
G.Ashmore solo 27.04.2003
The second buttress is a much more impressive pillar of rock. Reach the base by descending left, walking around
the front, then climbing down a tree.
67. Once More Off To The Beach Dear Friends 20m HVS,5a *
As for Angel Flakes to the ledge, then climb the wall left of the blunt arete past some good micro-friends. Now I bloody well will be after finishing this ******g guide.
G.Ashmore, R.Thomas 26.05.2003
68. Angel Flakes 20m VS,4c **
Climb the blunt arete from bottom to gain the mid-height ledge. Leave this taking care with some flakes and continue up the arete to finish up a short wall. The right (overhanging) arete can be used as an alternative start at HVS,5a.
M.Crocker Pre-1978
MAP
FIRST ASCENTS
1. A.Name 00.00.0000
