Morlais Quarries

From SWMC Guidebook

GR047098 By Chris Shorrock BOLTING POLICY: No Bolting. PREAMBLE A series of four limestone quarries situated on the west and north slopes of Morlais Hill about 1¾ miles north of Merthyr Tydfil. Each of the quarries has its own atmosphere; the Lower Tier with its grassy base and extensive ledges has a pleasant, sheltered feel, the Middle Tier is very open and popular with groups. It has plenty of routes at all grades and provides good views north to the Brecon Beacons. The Upper Tier has a secluded feel despite being the closest to the road, whilst the East Tier is situated in an industrial moonscape. Generally the climbs are clean and free of debris, although they can be a little polished on the Middle Tier. The quarries get plenty of sun but are hideous places to climb if at all wet. Note that car theives are extremely active in this area, so leave no valuables in your vehicles. ACCESS 1.Lower, Middle and Upper Tiers Approach from the roundabout at the junction between the A465 Heads of the Valleys road and the A470 Cardiff to Brecon road. Follow the A465 east and take the first exit after 1/4 mile. This leads to an offset crossroads. Head almost straight across the junction sign-posted Pontsticill - Torpantau - Talybont. Follow the road through Trefechan to eventually reach a junction just before a pub (Aberclais Inn). For the Lower and Middle Tiers stay on the main road until a second pub (Pontsarn Inn) is reached. Park here (a small fee is requested by the owners). From the north side of the carpark a path descends to a disused railway viaduct. Cross the viaduct then turn right onto the Morlais Heritage Trail. Almost immediately turn left to ascend steeply up a path to the centre of the Middle Tier. For the Upper Tier and alternative approach to the middle tiers turn right (signposted Dowlais) over a bridge and up a hill. Before the top of the hill (GR 049092) a minor junction is reached with a disused tramway leading off to the left. Park around here (considerately). A fence with an access point 100m right of the tramway provides access to the Upper Tier, whilst the tramway itself is followed pleasantly to the Windy Wall section of the Middle Tier. 2.East Tier Approach from the Lower or Middle Tier by walking up and southeast to GR 056096 – an obvious north-facing buttress with two vertical cracks bounded to the left by a corner. Alternmatively approach from the Brecon Mountain Railway Station GR 059098 by walking along the base of the quarried escarpment westwards to the crag. DESCENTS: Walk off at various points. THE ROUTES The Lower Tier The right-hand end of the cliff is reached by a path descending from the left end of the Middle Tier beneath the Great Wall. The left end of the cliff is bounded by an earth mound, whilst the centre has a descent path running from left to right. 1. Terminal Arete 15m VD A broken slab above the top of the earth mound at the left end of the quarry. C.Shorrock 00.08.2001 350 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Guide Morlais 2. More Lice 15m VS,4c At the base of the earth mound is a buttress, climb a depression in the centre of this to a ledge and saplings. Finish either up the groove or the wall to its right (better, but bold). M.Salter, C.Shorrock 00.10.2001 3. Maul Ice 15m S On the right side of the buttress is a borehole, climb just right of this to a small grassy ledge. Finish up the corner. C.Shorrock, M.Salter 00.10.2001 25m right again are some bushes on a grassy ledge 2m above the quarry floor. 4. Noviciate 24m S Just left of the bushes is a cracked groove. Climb this to a grass ledge, step right and continue up the wall and short groove to finish straight up the wall. C.Mortlock Pre-1973 5. Hawthorn Wall 27m S Behind the bushes is another groove, climb this to a grass ledge, then continue up the wall trending right to a ledge. Finish up the groove on the left. C.Mortlock Pre-1973 6. Comici Special 27m HVS,5a Climb a short left facing corner 5m right of Hawthorn Special to a ledge, then walls via another grass ledge. Finish via a groove and crack. J.Harwood, P.Thomas 00.00.1975 5m right again is a hawthorn bush with a short blocky arete above it. 7. Delivery 27m HVS,5a * Ascend the wall 1m left of the bush to a ledge, move left and up ledges to a groove, then right to the top. J.Harwood, S.Lewis 00.00.1976 8. Manibus Abort 30m VS,4b Climb the groove above the bush to a grass ledge, then up to a frail tree. Traverse left to the groove of Delivery and then step right and climb a steep wall and short walls above. Unknown Pre-1991 9. R.I.P. 24m VS,4b Right again is a left-facing corner, just left of an arete. Climb the corner to a grass ledge, traverse left to a steep, loose, groove which is followed to the top. A.Sharp, S.Evans 00.00.1974 10. The Sickle 24m VS,4c * Climb the left-hand of a trio of grooves just right of the arete to a grassy terrace. Continue up for 3m, move right and then follow a groove to the top. Unknown Pre-1978 11. Central Groove 7m S The central groove. C.Shorrock, M.Salter 00.10.2001 12. The Grunt 7m HVS,5b Layback strenuously up the right-hand groove. P.Thomas solo Pre-1991 Gower & SE Wales Guide Inland Limestone 351 Morlais 13. Raspberries 25m HVS,4c Climb the shattered crack between The Grunt and Greenmantle, then follow the discontinuous walls above. P.Bruten, L.Davies 00.08.1984 14. Greenmantle 27m HVS,5a * Climb the borehole 3m right of The Grunt to a grassy terrace then mantleshelf on to a small ledge 3m left of the arete. Follow discontinuous walls above, keeping just left of the arete. Unknown 00.00.1973 A wide ledge (descent route) now crosses the face at half-height. The next routes start from this. 15. Wall Street 7m E1,5a An unprotected route climbing the wall just left of centre and above a bush. T.Penning, G.Horler 00.00.1983 16. Bahama Crisis 7m HVS,5b The vague crack midway between Wall Street and Cerebellum. T.Penning, K.Barrat 00.00.1983 Right again is a tufaceous scoop with cracks on either side of it. 17. Cerebellum 7m HVS,5b * Climb the left-hand crack. There is an alternative version, which gains the scoop from the crack. J.Harwood, C.Horsfield 00.00.1976 18. Khamil Rhouge 12m E2,6a * Start as for the scoop version of Cerebellum, but finish up the right-hand side of the nose of the scoop. L.Davies, P.Thomas 00.06.1986 19. Compact 7m VS,4b Climb the right-hand crack past a small tree. J.Harwood solo Pre-1985 20. Corset 36m VS,4c This pleasant traverse requires a good knowledge of the next few routes. Either start up Corset, or begin at the right end of the ledge of Exile. Climb up and move right, go round the corner to a ledge and continue to a small groove (PR on The Go Between). Traverse across grass ledges around an arete and step down to a grassy ledge beneath the summit overhang. Step right and finish as for Narcotic. J.Harwood, J.Matthews 00.00.1976 To the right the wall is crossed by a rightward-sloping ramp. 21. Crisis, What Crisis? 12m E4,6b Climb the vague aretes between Compact and Exile with a hard start. A.Sharp, L.Sharp 00.00.1981 22. Exile 12m E3,5c Committing with no protection. Start left of the ramp and then follow it to a red groove. Leave the groove by moving left to reach good holds near the top. A. Sharp, L.Sharp 00.00.1981 23. Dead Red 12m E3,5c As for Exile to the red groove but continue rightwards to gain a second groove. A. Sharp, L.Sharp 00.00.1981 352 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Guide Morlais 24. Morlais Eliminate 12m E3,5c The wall immediately right of Dead Red is poorly protected. Climb it to a poor PR at a thin overlap and continue via a short crack to a move left at the top. T.Penning 00.00.1984 25. Triple Cross 17m E3,5c * Climb the shallow groove between Dead Red and The Go Between, exit right to a small toe ledge then up left to the top. T.Penning, P.Cresswell 00.00.1983 26. The Go Between 27m E2,5b * Start 3m right of a tree. Climb easily to a short groove leading to the top, PR. J.Harwood, I.Carey 00.00.1976 FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 00.08.1980 27. Whispering Grass 33m HVS,5a Start at a corner at the back of a small bay, 6m right of the tree. Climb the corner past two ledges to finish up and right above a bush on grassy ledges. J.Harwood, P.Thomas 00.00.1975 28. Busy Bee 33m HS,4a Climb the buttress 3m right of the small bay, then follow the shallow arete until it merges into a corner and a finishing crack. J.Harwood, S.Lewis 00.00.1976 29. Gallery 30m VS,4b * Bold in the middle. Climb a corner above a grass ledge 4m right of Busy Bee and 6m left of a prominent borehole. From its top follow a further groove until a grass ledge can be reached on the right. Move leftwards and follow a corner on the left side of the summit overhang. J.Harwood, P.Thomas 00.00.1973 30. Narcotic 30m VS,4b Ascend the groove 2m right of Gallery to a ledge. Move slightly right and climb water-stained rock to the right side of the summit overhang and the top. S.Lewis, J.Harwood 00.00.1976 31. Bore 12m HVS,5a Climb the borehole 4m right of Narcotic to a ledge. Follow water-worn grooves up to an easy rightward-traverse just below the top. Unknown Pre-1991 32. Green Corner 12m S The obvious corner is climbed to a big ledge. Walk right to a groove which is followed to the top. N.Grant, N.Kingsford 00.00.1976 33. Flake Crack 12m VD The crack on the right wall of the corner. Walk right along the ledge to gain the finishing groove. Unknown Pre-1991 34. Double Constraint 12m S Right of Green Corner is a small bay with a shallow groove in its left wall. Climb this to a ledge and then a tree. Move right to finish up the groove. D. Ellis Pre-1974 Gower & SE Wales Guide Inland Limestone 353 Morlais 35. T.A.P. 6m VD 10m right of Double Constraint is a small tree at the base of a groove, gain and climb the groove. Unknown Pre-1991 The Middle Tier At the left-hand end is a bay whose right-hand side is formed by the obvious Great Wall. Right of this is easier angled terrain, terminating in the vertical Castle Bay. After some more broken ground (The Ramparts) the crag regains its composure with Windy Wall which lies above a platform of rock and has overhangs at the top. 36. Old Friends 13m VD The arete of the left wall of Great Wall Bay. D.Webb, C.Shorrock 00.00.2001 The Great Wall 37. To The Batmobile 15m HVS,5b * Start on a ledge a third of the way up the left-hand side of The Great Wall. Climb a crack past a sapling with a hard move left near the top. D.Hillier, A.Cummings 00.00.1982 38. Grace Under Pressure 15m E1,5b The wall right of To The Batmobile. A.Cummings 00.00.1980 39. Phobia 18m E1,5b * Climb the obvious water-worn groove, to the overlap. Traverse right along a sloping ramp then finish direct. P.Watkin A1 Pre-1973 FFA P.Thomas, J.Harwood 00.00.1975 40. The Rattling Finish 17m E2,5c * As for Phobia, but climb the overhang direct. T.Penning, A.Sharp 00.00.1982 41. Blade Runner 18m E3,5c ** Good technical climbing. Climb Phobia for 3m, then move right to a narrow ledge. Climb straight up then right to another ledge, PR. Follow the crack leftwards to finish as for Phobia. T.Penning, A.Sharp etc. 00.00.1982 42. Rogues Gallery 18m E5,6b * Start just right of Phobia at a shallow groove. Climb the groove to a thin ledge on the left. Move up right, BR (missing) and continue boldly to a ledge at two-thirds height. Move left to a thin finishing crack. G.Gibson 00.09.1984 43. No Mercy 21m E6,6c * The wall between Rogues Gallery and Partners in Crime. A faint thin crack leads to a ledge. Move up rightwards via ripples to pass a BR (missing). Finish with less difficulty. G.Gibson 00.05.1985 44. Partners in Crime 18m E5,6c ** Start below a line of thin cracks on the right side of the wall. Climb the crack to where it fades, then make hard moves to pass a PR. Continue, PR, to reach a ledge at two-thirds height. Traverse left to finish up a thin crack. C.Jones - Partners A1 00.00.1970 FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 00.08.1983 354 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Guide Morlais 45. Fly Arete 18m HS Start 2m left of the right arete of The Great Wall. Climb the wall to swing right onto a ledge on the arete. Follow the arete to the top. Unknown Pre-1978 46. Massascent Groove 18m VD * The groove and crack starting to the right of the arete of The Great Wall. Unknown Pre-1978 47. Ledge Way 18m VD Right again is an open left-facing corner. Climb the corner or its left wall, then either move left to a ledge or continue direct up the corner. Finish straight up the groove or step right to ledges. Unknown Pre-1978 48. Eliminate Slab 18m HVS,4b The smooth face just right of the corner is bold. Unknown Pre-1978 49. Tiptoe 15m S * Right of Eliminate Slab is a ledge at 1m. Climb the shallow right-facing corner above the ledge. Unknown Pre-1978 50. Spectacle 15m VD * About 2m right of Tiptoe is a borehole. Climb the shallow indefinite groove above it. Unknown Pre-1978 51. Serpent 15m VD Start just left of an overhanging block. Climb over the small overlap and finish up easy slabs above. Unknown Pre-1978 52. Lost Groove 15m D The left-hand groove between the overhanging block and a narrow prow. Scrambling remains. Unknown Pre-1978 53. Two Corners 15m VD * The right-hand groove between the overhanging block and a narrow prow. Climb the groove and corner above. Unknown Pre-1978 54. S.T.E.P. 15m S Climb the groove right of the prow to ledges. Finish via the corner up and to the right. M.Danford, P.Wood 00.00.1973 Castle Bay Castle Bay is the steeply walled bay 12m right of the narrow prow. In the back wall of the bay are some obvious polished grooves – the line of Top Cat. 55. Gold Medal 13m VS,4b This takes the blank-looking wall left of the grooves of Top Cat. A.Sharp, P.Hamer 00.00.1984 56. Top Cat 13m S The obvious polished grooves in the back wall of the bay. Unknown Pre-1978 Gower & SE Wales Guide Inland Limestone 355 Morlais 57. Name Game 13m HS,4a Interesting climbing up the wall right of Top Cat. P.Hamer, A.Sharp 00.00.1984 58. Great Corner 13m S * The back corner of the bay is good, but can be wet. Unknown Pre-1978 59. Castle Wall 11m VS,4b * The first obvious crack on the right wall of Castle Bay. Unknown Pre-1978 60. Arisk 9m VS,4b Climb a thin crack in the centre of the wall right of Castle wall. Climb diagonally right (4b) or directly up (4c) from the ledge to finish. Unknown Pre-1978 61. Squeeze It In 9m E1,5a Contrived. Climb the wall right of Arisk to a ledge. Move left into Arisk and finish direct. G.Horler, N.Ward, M.Rose, M.Broomfield, S.Rack, D.Barton 00.00.1984 62. Wall Cracks 6m HVS,5a * The thin cracks at the right end of the wall, PRs. J.Harwood 00.00.1975 The Ramparts Castle Bay ends at a short arete. About 5m right of the arete is a ledge and corner at two-thirds height. 63. Dirty Corner 9m D Reach the ledge at 6m via a groove on the left (D), or more enjoyably by the steep buttress beneath (5a) or the wall to the right (4b). Unknown Pre-1978 64. Sixties Groove 9m VD The pleasant, shallow, left-facing groove/corner right of Dirty Corner. Unknown Pre-1970 65. Easy Route 12m M About 3m right of Sixties Route is a gently-angled, polished groove. Unknown Pre-1973 There now follows a 50m section of broken cliff before a more continuous section rises from a rock platform some 5m above the quarry floor. About 8m left of a tree at the left end of the platform is a low-angled buttress. 66. Rocks Like The Rockies 18m S Climb the groove in the gently angled buttress to the overlap. Traverse left beneath the overlap to finish up another groove. C.Shorrock, D.Webb 00.00.2001 Windy Wall This crag lies above the rock platform at the right end of the Middle Tier. Above the left end of the platform is a ledge. 356 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Guide Morlais 67. Griptight 6m HS,4b Climb the corner to the left of an obvious horizontal scaffolding bar. Unknown Pre-1978 68. Gripfix 7m HS,4b Climb the centre of the wall right of Griptight starting at the scaffolding bar. Unknown Pre-1978 69. Parting Company 18m S From the left end of the main face of Windy Wall climb a shallow groove to a ledge. Finish up another groove formed by the left side of two detached blocks. Unknown Pre-1978 70. Windy 18m HVS,5b Start beneath the right of the detached blocks. Climb the serious lower wall, then the crack splitting the blocks. J.Harwood 00.00.1976 71. Pullover 18m HVS,5a A serious climb starting just right of a borehole. Climb up left to a shallow recess then over the overhang and up the wall above. K.Hughes, D.Hillman 00.00.1970 72. Breezing 18m HVS,5b Climb the wall 2m right of Pullover, PR. Finish past the left end of the overhang. C.Court, K.Anderson, A.Jones 00.00.1984 73. Overdrive 18m E1,5a Climb the wall 2m right of Pullover to the overhang, which is climbed on its right side. Unknown Pre-1978 74. Oxo 18m VS,4b Climb to the steep corner on the right of the overhangs, then traverse left to beneath blocks. Pass the blocks on either side. Unknown Pre-1978 75. Philanderer 13m VS,4c * Start as for Oxo but continue up the corner. Unknown Pre-1978 76. Blue Buska 13m E3,5c * Climb up to a bulge just right of Philanderer, gain the hanging groove via a gymnastic move (2 old BRs) and follow it to the top. T.Penning, A.Sharp 00.00.1982 77. Grease Monkey 12m VD Climb the open left-facing groove 2m right of Philanderer. Unknown Pre-1978 78. Groovy 12m S This takes the obvious clean cut groove just right of Grease Monkey. Unknown Pre-1978 79. Pull Through 12m S Climb the worn slab just right of Groovy, to finish through a gap in the blocky overhang. Unknown Pre-1978 Gower & SE Wales Guide Inland Limestone 357 Morlais 80. Blockhead 12m S Climb the right side of the narrow slab to pass right of the overhangs via a short groove. Unknown Pre-1978 81. Tree Corner 12m S * Climb the obvious tree-less groove in the centre of the buttress. Unknown Pre-1978 82. Split Buttress 12m VD Climb the shallow groove in the front of the small prow, then the left side of the wall above. M.Danford, P.Wood 00.00.1971 83. Fork Left 9m VS,4c Right of the small prow is a groove that splits at half-height. Climb the left fork. Unknown Pre-1978 84. Fork Right 9m S,4a Follow Fork Left but finish by the right fork. M.Danford, P.Wood 00.00.1971 85. Sting 8m VD Climb the groove 2m right of the Fork routes. Unknown Pre-1978 The Upper Tier Some 100m right of the left-hand end of the quarry is hawthorn tree at the top of the crag. Below are a grey wall and a left to right slanting ramp. 86. Bypass 13m D Begin beneath an arete (Elastic) 4m left of the hawthorn at the top. Climb the rightward-slanting ramp. Unknown Pre-1991 87. Elastic 10m VS,4b The left arete of the wall above Bypass, avoiding easy ground on the left. J.Harwood solo 00.08.1980 88. Guts 10m VS,4b Follow Bypass to a small arete. From the arete, climb the wall above. Unknown Pre-1991 89. After Dinner Crack 10m VS,4b Follow Bypass, then a thin crack 1m right of Guts. Unknown Pre-1991 90. Extension 9m HVS 5a About 1m right of the finish of Bypass is a short wall leading to some cracks. Climb these to pull through a steep area onto the arete. Finish next to Bypass. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 00.08.1980 91. Left Hand Trinity 9m E1,5b The first of three cracks that start above ledge-ridden ground. Bold and with some very loose rock at the top. Poor. Unknown Pre-1991 358 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Guide Morlais 92. Central Trinity 9m VS,4b The second crack is steep and sustained but with slightly better rock than its harder neighbour. M.Salter, C.Shorrock 00.10.2001 93. Right Hand Trinity 9m S The third crack has plenty of protection but still retains worrying finishing holds. C.Shorrock, M.Salter 00.10.2001 94. Ledge and Corner 9m VD The corner that starts above the ledges just right of Right Hand Trinity. Unknown Pre-1991 95. Intermission 16m VS,4c The wall is now higher. Climb the slight left-facing groove, avoiding the worst rock by moving out onto the arete. Unknown Pre-1991 96. The Writer 16m VS,4b Right of Intermission is a shallow right-facing corner. Gain this, then climb it, taking care with the rock. Unknown Pre-1991 A diagonal descent rake leads down to the next section. About 15m right of the base of the descent is a hawthorn tree some 3m up, above a trio of ledges below a white wall. 97. Hiccup 15m HVS,4c About 4m left of the hawthorn is a flake crack. Climb the wall right of the flake crack until it is possible to swing left above it. Climb the wall above. J.Harwood solo 00.00.1975 98. Morning Star 15m E3,6a * The wall 3m right of Hiccup. T.Penning, J.Harwood 00.00.1985 99. Clive’s Crack 21m HVS,5a Start 3m right of the tree. Reach a borehole and follow this to reach a grassy ledge on the right. J. Harwood 00.00.1975 100.Fairy Steps 27m VD This climbs the obvious diagonal line from right to left, starting 10m right of Clive’s Crack. Unknown Pre-1978 101.Evening Gem 18m E4,6a * The line of the quarry. Climb the shallow, rounded groove above the start of Fairy Steps and 3m left of a brown stain. Exit left or directly and climb the short wall to a tree. P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 00.00.1977 P.George, A.N.Other - Direct 00.00.1989 102.Autonomy 18m E2,5b Climb the series of grooves between Evening Gem and the brown stain, to a final wide crack. J.Harwood, W.Gray 00.00.1977 103.Stretch 18m VS,4b Climb the brown-stained wall moving left to a groove just above half-height. Unknown Pre-1991 Gower & SE Wales Guide Inland Limestone 359 Morlais 104.Zig Zag 27m HS,4a This climbs the right to left ramp 5m right of Stretch. P.Watkin 00.00.1970 105.Hair Of The Dog 12m E3,6a * Start just right of Zig Zag and climb between two flakes to follow a borehole, PR. T.Penning, C.Court 00.00.1985 106.Afternoon Delight 9m E2,5c * Start at a tree 9m right of Hair Of The Dog. Climb the wall PR, then mantleshelf left to a faint corner at the top. C.Court, T.Penning 00.00.1985 107.High Noon 9m E2,6a * The crack and short corner 2m right of Afternoon Delight, PR. C.Court, T.Penning 00.00.1985 A broken section of crag runs across to a protruding wall. 108.Snuff Stuff 9m VS,4b The slanting groove in the left side of the wall. Unprotected. T.Penning solo 00.00.1985 109.Compact Slab 10m VD The compact slab 12m right of Snuff Stuff is gained from its left edge and exited on its left. A direct start is 6a. M.Salter 00.10.2001 Midway between the Upper Tier and the tramline to the Middle Tier is another quarry with a good section of rock at its centre. This has produced a number of climbs up to 15m in height at various grades. No documentation of these climbs has come to light, so the faces remain for your unconstrained pleasure. The East Tier See Approach 2 for access to this north-facing buttress. It has two vertical cracks and is bounded on the left by a corner. 110. Little Owl 15m S Climb the corner. A.Giles, R.Davies 00.00.1988 111. One Between The Eyes 15m HVS,5a The left-hand crack. A.Giles, R.Davies 00.00.1988 112. Terminator 15m E2,5c The fainter right-hand crack. R.Powles, A.Hughes 00.00.1988 360 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Guide Taf Fechan