Llwynypia

From SWMC Guidebook

Contents

Whichever area your page is in

GR xxx xxx

Contents 1 BOLTING POLICY 2 PREAMBLE 3 ACCESS 4 DESCENTS 5 THE ROUTES 5.1 sub division of crag required ? 5.2 First Ascents

BOLTING POLICY

New sports routes allowed or not?

PREAMBLE

What you think of the area?

ACCESS

Your best access description.

DESCENTS

Lower off or walk off? Rope length required?

THE ROUTES

Are these described as approached, i.e. from right or left

sub division of crag required ?

1. Route name - route grade
   Description of the route. Route length in metres.
   
   
2. Route name 2 - route grade 2
   Description of the route. Route length in metres.
   
   

First Ascents

1. A.Name 00.00.0000

GR993938 PREAMBLE A reasonably good crag in a nice setting. Unfortunately it does get pretty lichenous and retains moisture more effectively than Oil of Ulay. The main section of the quarry is on the far side of the obvious pool, but there are some buttresses and a small natural section about 100m left of the entrance to the complex. The right-hand end has a lot of potential for new routes including what looks like a couple of old aid routes (no details). Some 25 routes are alluded to in the 1973 SWMC guide, but details seem to have been lost for all but the eight described in it, which would otherwise yield a staggering 38 lines. ACCESS Go through Llwynypia via the A4119 or B4293, to a steep right hand bend, with the prominent new Magistrates Court on the left. Turn left in front of the court and park on the road. Go into the woods on the right via a gate and follow the obvious track up the hill for about 300m to enter the quarry. If on foot, the railway station is right next to the court building. THE ROUTES Left Hand Section Located about 100m left of the path leading to the quarry entrance. 1. Led Astray 9m E3,6a At the far end of the left section are two buttresses forming a right angled bay. This is the central face of the lefthand buttress, passing 2 stacked PRs. E.Travers-Jones, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 16.04.1992 Llantrisant Gower & SE Wales Guide Sandstone 445 2. Ylide 9m E1,5c The arete to the right of Led Astray climbed on the left side throughout. S.Coles 05.04.1992 3. Nowhere Man 8m HVS,5b The same arete climbed on the right side. R.Lawrence 05.04.1992 4. Perverted By Language 9m E4,6c Fr7b The right-hand buttress leans slightly. At its left end is a faint groove. Climb this desperately past a BR and PR. Blood blisters are compulsory. G.Ashmore 05.04.1992 Main Section The Main Section is dominated by a pool. Routes can be reached by walking over the small dam wall. Behind the dam is an obvious buttress and a diagonal terrace at a higher level. 5. Bathtime 12m HS,4c 􀁷 A nice line on rotten rock up the steep crack at the top of the diagonal grassy terrace. Unknown Pre-1973 6. Bernard’s Balls Up 12m E3,6a * The wall immediately left of the obvious offwidth behind the pool, PR, finishing up a flake crack 1m below the top. A good fingery number. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989 7. Maz 26m VS,4c The obvious offwidth and the overgrown corner above and left. Unknown Pre-1973 8. Greet Whoppin Jugs 12m E4,6b To the right of Maz and directly above the dam is an obvious arete. Climb this to a PR, then step left and climb the technical upper slab. C.Evans, A.Jenkins, P.Green 00.00.1992 9. Calling The Shots 12m E4,5c ** The excellent arete above the little dam. The PR on Greet Whoppin Jugs is not clipped at this grade. The start of the route is currently problematic due to the tree. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989 10. Well Heeled 12m VS,4c The crack in the centre of the slab down and to the right of Calling The Shots. R.Thomas, M.Crocker 08.04.1989 11. Calcaneum Crunch 12m E2,5c * Above Well Heeled is a grassy terrace. This route climbs a faint groove in the right hand side of the slab, past a low PR which is the only gear. Committing and airy. R.Thomas, M.Crocker 08.04.1989 12. Free Wales Army 15m E1,5b * The arete down to the right of Calcaneum Crunch, starting on the left is better than it looks, PR. Hard for the grade. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989 The exact line of the next three routes is not known for sure. Llwynypia 446 Sandstone Gower & SE Wales Guide 13. Whatah 12m VD 􀁷 The layback crack up the corner to the right of a small arete to a grass ledge. Finish up the wall, with a move out left. Unknown Pre-1973 14. Scream 12m S 􀁷 To the left of Whatah, climb the corner and fractured crack to the grass ledge on Whatah. Take the crack at the back of the ledge to the top. Unknown Pre-1973 15. Phil’s Arete 15m D 􀁷 The arete to the right of Scream. Poor, with loose rock. Unknown Pre-1973 16. Harbour Wall 15m S 􀁷 The centre of the prominent red wall. Unknown Pre-1973 17. Alibi 15m E2,5c 􀁷 The central wall in the penultimate bay of the quarry. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989 18. The Brawl 12m E3,6a 􀁷 The crack to the right. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 08.04.1989