Llangattock
From SWMC Guidebook
Contents
Preamble
The Llangattock escarpment extends for 3 miles on the South side of the Usk valley overlooking Crickhowell. Most of the routes are in old limestone quarries of a generally solid nature. It is an exposed cliff that faces north and so it can be cold when windy. However, it offers superb views across the valley to the hills beyond and houses a wide variety of fine routes including some of the most serious in the area. It tends to be regarded as a semi-detached outpost of the South East Wales area, more often frequented by the Wye Valley scene, but although it is not a true rival for Ogmore, it does offer a large number of ‘big leads’ and deserves more attention.
Three points should be noted to ensure a safe and productive visit.
First, because it faces north, seepage can be a problem. Paradoxically, cold, windy conditions often give the driest rock and the best opportunities.
Second, the steep, boulder-strewn slopes at the top of the crag often have to be safeguarded with a rope. Dust and/or mud may also affect the tops of climbs, which, if they are difficult, may have to be brushed.
Finally, a hostile local farmer keeps removing belay stakes (particularly in the Chwar Pant Y Rhiw area) so, again, check before embarking on that big lead!
It has been said that Llangattock is an acquired taste, or that it is esoteric. That may be. To the author of this section
it has provided some of the most memorable climbing days in South Wales. The challenge of the climbs, the
wonderful setting and the peace and tranquility of nature away from the maddening crowds have given memories to
treasure. Give it a serious try and sample the ‘Llangattock Experience’.
Access
In April 1998 after years of work by Brecon Beacons National Park Authority and the BMC an access agreement was finally reached to allow climbing on Llangattock hillside.
A group booking system has been established and group leaders intending to visit the crag should contact Crickhowell Adventure Gear (Tel: 01873 810149) to make bookings. Bookings can be made up to 8 weeks in advance and there is a limit of 3 groups of up to 15 people (total per group) per day. A small charge is payable to help cover wardening costs and the BMC Access Fund also makes an annual contribution towards costs. There will be no bookings when stock gathering is taking place.
Indidividual climbers access is not affected. - Although the 'Farmer' would have you believe otherwise!
Some Photographs
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