Llanbradach
From SWMC Guidebook
Contents
GR ST 146 894
Contents |
BOLTING POLICY
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.
PREAMBLE
Llanbradach is BIG, very BIG, with nearly 100 recorded routes. The lower quarry is like a tropical rainforest during the summer. The top tier is more open with a series of large slabby towers.
The majority of the routes in this quarry are of the sports variety and fall between the 6b and 7a grades, although there are a few exceptions.
It is also particularly midge infested due to the pool. As such, it's unlikely you will last much past 6:00pm during May through August, unless there is a stiff breeze.
Recent re-gearing and retro-bolting has been undertaken where the pegs and bolts used to protect the original ascents have corroded.
ACCESS
This is the hole in the hillside to the west of Llanbradach village, just north of Caerphilly. Enter the village from the south and park courteously near the traffic calming narrowing. 30m south of the calming is a steep gravel track leading to a metal gate under a masonry railway bridge. Go under the bridge and turn left. After 50m a path on the right leads through trees to the Pool. The Bas-Chevaliers area is accessed by turning right into the trees just before another metal gate 100m past the bridge. The upper tier is accessed by climbing over this gate, walking a further 100m and turning right sharply uphill along an old tram line. If on foot, get the train to Llanbradach and walk south (Cardiff direction) along the side of the tracks, until it is possible to break out right onto a track, which leads to the quarry mouth in about 300m.
DESCENTS
All routes have individual bolt belays.
