Glynfach

From SWMC Guidebook

South East Wales Sandstone

Grid ref: ST 029 903

Lat: 51:36:14N (51.604)

Lon: 3:24:12W (-3.40334)

Postcode district: CF39 9

Contents 1 PREAMBLE 2 ACCESS 3 ROUTES 3.1 First Ascents

PREAMBLE

The crag consists of two main sections. The first is a long broken and semi natural bay on the left, with no recorded routes. The second is a sheltered, taller bay on the right. This main bay dries pretty quickly.

ACCESS

Above the village of Glynfach, SW of Cymmer. Follow the A4225 out of Pontypridd, heading for Porth. Pass through Trehafod to a roundabout by the Rhondda Heritage Park Hotel. Continue straight onto Porth, but where the road veers right, bear left. About ½ a mile further on, the main road bears right, but bear left. The road swings steeply left up a hill and past a metal bridge. Immediately after the bridge, turn left into Glyn Street. After 100m, turn right and park. A path leads up to the right of some flats, eventually arriving at the crag. If on foot, get the train to Porth, walk over towards Cymmer, and follow the directions as above.

ROUTES

1. Fach Roo - Fr. 6a+
   The short tower at the left of the crag.
   
   
2. Hot Fuss - Fr. 6a
   Start as for Killer Arete and climb direct.
   
   
3. Killer Arete - Fr. 6b **
   A route up the overhanging arete (started on the left).
   
   
4. Turn off the Sun - Fr. 7a
   Climb Killer Arete to the third bolt, then traverse slightly right to the lower off of Moses.
   
   
5. Dai Hard - Fr. 7b
   The wall to the right of Killer’s Arete has a dynamic move off some edges for a distant flake.
   
   
6. Moses Supposes His Toeses Were Roses - Fr. 6c
   To the right is a Sperm-Whale-like flake of rock. Gain this directly and take the wall above direct to a BB.
   
   
7. Nervous Nineties - Fr. 7a
   Follow Moses Supposes His Toeses Were Roses to the thin break above the Sperm Whale. Make a hard move right, then go directly up to the BB.
   
   
8. Fach Roo Too - Fr. 6a+
   The tower just the other side of the corner to the right of Nervous Nineties.
   
   
9. Fach When - HVS, 5a
   The baggy crack to the right.
   
   
10. Psychotherapy - E5, 6c
    The white wall to the right.
    
    
11. Fach This - VS, 4b
    The left-hand of the two twin cracks right of Psychotherapy.
    
    
12. Fach That - VS, 4c
    The crack to the right.
    
    
13. Yak’s Back - HVS, 5a
    A route up the slab the the right.
    
    
14. Little Kurd - Fr. 6a
    Up the bolted line.
    
    

THE ROUTES

First Ascents

1. R.Thomas 17.04.1999
2. A.Sharp 30.08.2010
3. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 22.07.1990
4. A.Sharp 30.08.2010
5. G.Ashmore 29.04.1999
6. P.Lewis, A.Sharp 22.07.1990
7. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 22.07.1990
8. R.Thomas 00.00.1999
9. R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones, Old Harrovians 00.00.1999
10. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 22.07.1990
11. R.Thomas 18.04.1999
12. R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones, Old Harrovians 00.00.1999
13. G.Henderson, J.Obradovitc 22.07.1990
14. R.Thomas, E.Travers-Jones, Old Harrovians 00.00.1999