Gelli

From SWMC Guidebook

Contents

South East Wales Sandstone

GR xxx xxx

Contents 1 BOLTING POLICY 2 PREAMBLE 3 ACCESS 4 DESCENTS 5 THE ROUTES 5.1 First Ascents

BOLTING POLICY

Quarried sandstone,the more the merrier.

PREAMBLE

Once regeared will prove popular. A bit of a flog to get to but catches the late sun with commanding views down the whole of Rhondda Fawr.Lots for the 6a and below climber.Worth a place in division 2 crags at least.

ACCESS

From the M4 Jct34 take the A4119 highway to the Rhondda valley arriving at Tonypandy.Do not go into the town but follow the road past the retail centre turning left on the B4223.Pass Glyncornel outdoor centre following the signs for Gelli. Park outside the Gelli rubbish compound then walk up the track past the sultry goats and well hung donkeys.

DESCENTS

Old fence posts for some of the trad routes.Sport routes have Lower Offs.

THE ROUTES

Described from left to right facing the crag

1. Green Arete-VS 4c
   The obvious green arete. 11m.
   
   
2. K.E.S-HVS 5a
   Slabby wall right of the arete,PR near top.11m.
   
   To the right is another wall
   
   
3. Wot No Metal-E1 5c
   The Y Crack just right of the arete.9m.
   
   
4. Little Treasure Fr 6a+
   Scooped wall.9m.
   
   
5. Toil-HVS 5a
   Faint crack just left of grassy crack.9m.
   
   
6. Galvanised Fr 6a+
   Curving crack on wall right of grassy crack,move left to belay.9m.
   
   
7. Lost In Time Fr 6b
   Forgotten when the old hanger was relocated.Left of the now obvious Pine, first hanger spins.9m.
   
   Down and right is a red wall
   
   
8. Titanium Man-E1 5b
   Steep crack R of grassy chimney.9m.
   
   
9. Tobacco King Fr 6a+ *
   Crack just to right, shared belay above the grass slope.9m.
   
   
10. Cigarillo Fr 6b+ *
    Wall to right then grassy slope to shared belay.9m.
    
    
11. Down Under-VS 4c
    Green slab stepping R to finish up arete.15m.
    
    The next wall is set back and and above the quarry floor
    
    
12. All Talk Fr 6a
    The left side of the wall aiming for the short crack,make a trying move up using a finger jamb then step right to shared belay.15m.
    
    
13. Talking Hoarse Fr 5
    Gain and follow the faint groove.15m.
    
    
14. Little Taff Fr-6a *
    Thin crack on the left side of wall,belay above small strip roof.12m.
    
    
15. A Little Something I Prepared Earlier Fr 6a **
    Wall to right immediately left of grassy gully,double "twizzle" belay.12m.
    
    
16. Unearthed Hard Severe *
    Crack in sidewall then groove above ledge.12m
    
    On the next wall to the right
    
    
17. Ice Station Gelli Fr 6a *
    Starting from the floor right of the graffitied ledge.12m.
    
    
18. Send In The Specials Fr 6a *
    Step left from the grassy ledge.12m.
    
    
19. Hole In One Fr 5+
    Direct from grass ledge via several large pockets.10m.
    
    

First Ascents

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1. Gary Lewis
3. Roy Thomas
7. Graham Royle
8. Mick Learoyd
14. M.Learoyd
15. R.Thomas
16. G. Lewis

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