Foxhole Cove
From SWMC Guidebook
GR SS 551 872
Contents |
TIDAL STATUS
Foxhole Crag itself is non-tidal. The lower crags 2½ hours either side of low water.
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting except at Foxhole itself. At Foxhole - Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.
PREAMBLE
Foxhole Cove is the small bay between Watch House East and Heatherslade Bay itself. Foxhole itself is a superbly steep crag, basically the roof of a large cave, tucked back well back and above the sea at the back of the cove. It contains some of the best sport routes on Gower. The crag does seep after prolonged rain, but otherwise it performs good umbrella service. It is always possible to climb in or out of the sun by selecting the correct wall. There are a number of smaller areas and the easy routes on Wrinkle Slab and Grey Slab, well worth seeking out.
ACCESS
GR551872 Note that this is not the Fox Hole marked on the OS map. From the B4436 follow the offshoot into Southgate and continue to the National Trust Car Park by a roundabout at the end of the village (GR554873). Park here and follow the private road along the cliff top westward (right when looking out to sea) until opposite Number 9. Go down and left to the top of a gully. Scramble carefully down this taking care not to miss the path leading left across the top of the cave otherwise you will arrive at the base of the crag rather too quickly. Follow a poor path down for 50m, which comes to the cave entrance of Foxhole itself. The lower crags are reached by scrambling down in front of the cave. Deep Cut is to the west (right looking out to sea), Wrinkle Slab and Grey Wall to the east.
DESCENTS
Most routes at Foxhole itself have lower offs. However, some are in poor condition and benefit from a rope backup which can be lowered from stakes in the slope above. Great care should be taken when fixing the rope. It is believed this situation will be rectified before long. Descents for the other crags are by easy scrambling.
THE ROUTES
1. Cunning Little Fox - Fr.5
Easier warm up/intro to Foxhole on the left hand side of the crag. Start just left of the black slab, tending leftwards initially before rocking over onto the slab/ramp. Head straight up to the belay, then try something a little more overhanging on the main crag.
2. Never Out-Fox the Fox - Fr.5
Start on the grass bank, and begin up the black slab. Move up the slab and use massive holds to progress up a groove, make use of smaller holds to reach the distant belay.
3. Unholy Alliance - Fr.6a+
On the left wall of the crag, outside the cave proper, is a steep tower. Take a vague flake line up this. Was a bold trad route.12m
M.Crocker, J.Harwood 01.05.1994
4. Connard Canard - Fr.7b
The wall to the right of Unholy Alliance proves harder than it looks and is tricky to on-sight. 12m
G.Gibson 01.09.1998
5. Goose In Lucy - Fr.6c **
Down to the right of Connard Cannard, just inside the cave, are a couple of finger pockets. Gain and use these to work up to a bounce to get the conglomerate ledge. Finger traverse 1m to the left then climb the steep wall above on superb undercuts and jugs. 12m
R.Thomas, S.Coles 11.05.1996
NEW ROUTE
Surplomb De Ray - Fr. 8b
A very steep route to the left of Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove. Climb straight through the overhang via a very hard bouldery sequence to eventually gain the tufa jug at the intermediate belay of Hypnotic Groove - continue all the way to the top of the crag. 18m.
simon rawlinson 20/Jun/2010
4. Pioneers Of The Hypnotic Groove - Fr.7b ***
A stunning route climbing the angle of the cave at 45 degrees all the way up. Looks improbable, but the holds are massive! BB at the lip of the cave. 25m
R.Thomas 6pt 00.00.1994, FFA G.Ashmore, S.Coles, J.Tracey 19.04.1996
5. Un-named - Fr.8a
The overhanging wall to the right of Pioneers Of The Hypnotic Groove. Follow the bolt runners to a jug half way up the wall and swing leftwards boldly to reach the slab above. Lower off the following route. 14m
6. Palace Of Swords Reversed - Fr.8a+ *
Follow the BRs to where the lines diverge. Take the right-hand line with some very powerful moves off small pockets to gain good conglomerate holds and the slab. Lower off, or move right to finish up Foxy Lady. 15m
G.Ashmore 08.09.1996
7. Chicken Licken - Fr.6c+
Climb the overhanging wall just left of the arete marking the right end of the lower cave roof. 10m
R.Thomas 19.07.1996
To the right is small left trending wall at right angles to the cave and left of a prominent groove.
8. No Epoxy Au Oxley - E3,5c *
A partial girdle of the crag. Start up the cracks in the left side of the left-trending wall, to gain a slab running leftwards across to the final groove of Pioneers Of The Hypnotic Groove. Traverse easily across the slab to gain the Pioneers etc. groove which is followed to a TB. Abseil. 35m
R.Thomas 00.00.1994
9. Little Miss Lover - E4,6a
As for No Epoxy Au Oxley but when halfway across the traverse, 2m after the conglomerate holds, pull up the impending wall to good holds and a hidden PR. Follow a steep crack to the top. A lower off rope is required. How many repeats? 25m
M.Crocker 01.05.1994
The following three routes have had their starts swapped round for convenience. The grades are not really affected. They start on the pillar which leads up to the right end of the traverse slab.
10. The Hooker - Fr.6c+ **
A furious layback up cracks on the left of the pillar. Move 2m left and up to a PR and fight up the difficult impending headwall. 21m
J.Bullock, R.Thomas 00.06.1990
11. Foxy Lady - Fr.6c+ **
an intricate start in the center of the pillar leads to a good rest at the right end of the traverse slab. From here pull up on steep rock to a final thuggish move which can be done quite stylishly with the use of a right heel. 25m
J.Bullock, R.Thomas 00.05.1990
12. Joy De Viva - Fr.7a **
Start in the groove to the right of the pillar. At the top of this move right by a long reach to a good conglomeration - then move up with difficulty to jugs. Keep moving before you burn! Excellent sustained climbing. 20m
G.Gibson 05.07.1997
13. Turkey Lurking - Fr.7c *
Hard to follow. As for Power Struggle to a point 3m below the top. Blast leftwards, all very difficult to read, to eventually finish at the top of Foxy Lady. 30m
E.Travers-Jones 10.08.1996
14. Power Struggle - Fr.7b+ *
On the right wall of the crag is another big hole/flake at 4m. Gain this via the handrail on the right, move powerfully up and left to finish direct. 15m
M.Crocker, J.Harwood 01.05.1994
15. Ducky Lucky - Fr.7a+ *
A sharp but worthwhile route to the right of Power Struggle. 12m
R.Thomas 10.08.1996
16. The Day The Sky Fell In - Fr.6b+
The last groove on the right-hand wall of the cave. 10m
R.Thomas 18.05.1996
There are now many many links up's at the crag, probably more than the described routes. These are useful as a training resource for those devotees bored of lapping the same old lines. However, they are not all described here and are best identified by talking to locals.
Deep Cut (Dark Side of the Moon Zawn)
This is the narrow east-facing zawn at sea level, below and west of Fox Hole proper. It has an overhanging northfacing wall, which takes time to dry out and a low angled slab. Some of the first few routes have almost certainly been done before.
1. Talbot’s Peugeot 10m VS,5a
Start at the extreme left side of the overhanging wall. Layback up the arete to finish above a prominent roof.
G.Ashmore solo 19.08.1996
2. Mind Of A Talbot 7m VS,5b
The vague diagonal scoops to the right of Talbot’s Peugeot.
G.Ashmore solo 19.08.1996
3. Antipodean Hero 8m HVS,5a
The first real line. Climb to the prominent roof right of Mind Of A Talbot. Reach over this, move right to a sharp flake and finish direct. Awkward!
R.Thomas 19.08.1996
4. Malice Down Under 8m HVS,5a
A worthwhile route up a line of square jugs to the right of Antipodean Hero.
R.Thomas 19.08.1996
5. Maurice In Undies Land 8m E1,5c
The wall to the right of Malice Down Under, PR.
R.Thomas 19.08.1996
6. The Illywhacker 8m E4,6a *
Climb the centre of the north wall directly on small holds past twin PRs. The crux is at the top on the crozzly rib and a fall could be interesting, depending on the level of the pebbles.
A.Long 00.00.1991
7. Roygoi 8m E5,6a
Bridge up the cleft at the right-hand side of the wall for 2m, then move onto the wall and rock up for a finger flake. Follow a thin crack, to finish just right of The Illywhacker.
M.Crocker, J.Harwood 28.02.1998
8. Requin 8m HS
Climbs the leftmost groove at the back of the zawn.
J.Talbot 00.00.1962
9. Deep Cut Slab 12m HVD
Worthwhile. On the slabby side of the zawn is a diagonal runnel. Start where this touches the ground and balance up it to gain a sloping indentation. Get established on this, then climb directly up the slab above to finish.
J.Talbot 00.00.1962
Wrinkle Slab
This brown slab is below and east of Fox Hole proper, where the rocks start to open out.
1. Direct 12m D
Climb the centre of the slab.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
2. East Corner 12m M
Climb the corner bounding the slab to below an overhang which is turned on the left.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
Grey Wall
This is the eastwards continuation of Wrinkle Slab, starting with an arete.
1. West Edge 12m D
The left arete of the slab.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
2. West Side 12m D
Takes the slab to the right of West Edge. Many variations are possible.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
3. Cleft 12m VD *
In the middle of the slab is an obvious “4” shaped sentry box. Climb this and the delicate slab above.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
4. Ramp 12m HVD
An artificial climb squeezed in between Cleft and East Corner.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
5. East Corner 12m M *
The obvious corner bounding the slab on its right-hand side.
J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
Some 100m to the east (right) is Great Corner, described under the Heatherslade Page
