Deri
From SWMC Guidebook
Grid Reference SO 12450 01550
Contents |
PREAMBLE
Peregrines nest here so no climbing is permitted 1st March to 30th June. You must at all costs observe this ban.
See BMC RAD database for further information: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag/ViewCrag.aspx?id=46
There are two walls in this quarry either side of a sharp arête, a sunny and scrappy east facing wall and truly superb north facing wall.
Currently this crag has been debolted i.e. chopped due to non adherance to the nesting restrictions by certain parties. So don’t bother going.
As there are birds nesting above the east facing wall it is proposed that the climbs on this face are not reinstated.
ACCESS
The crag is in a disused quarry approximately 1 km south of Deri village.
The quarry lies at 280 m AOD on the southern side of a small tributary stream (Nant y Twpa) valley cut into the western side of the main river (Nant Bargoed Rhymni) valley.
To access the crag, park at the lay-by south of the stream bridge, jump over the stile, sign posted 'Parc Cwm Deri', and follow the footpath for 100 m through Coed Graig-fawr (woodland). At a divergence in the path, where a wooden post and wire fence line is encountered, follow the minor track rightwards for 50 m over a rough scrub grass area. Hop over the fence, or through it if it hasn’t been repaired, and follow the fence line uphill for 20m until a level sheep track heading left is encountered, the crag is clearly visible from this point.
To get to the parking area, which will accept 3 small cars, follow the instructions below.
From Bargoed (Northbound), get to the towns high street and follow it until the road starts to go downhill, an obvious ‘one way’ fork to the left (currently due to roadworks this fork is the diversion through town). Continue uphill along this road until the high school can be seen (along with speed bumps and usual school signage). Just before the school turn right into a wide tree lined lane. At the cattle grid turn immediately right and then immediately left over another cattle grid (not the signposted bridleway). Follow this lane until a farm and then craggy outcrop is passed on the right, the road drops down into the stream valley and parking is visible on the right.
From Deri village (Northbound) pass over the river bridge, a further 20 m the road turns sharply right. Do not bear right but carry straight on uphill through the ‘give way’ white road markings. Follow the very windy road uphill for 600m until the road starts to level out. Just after the ‘Old Mill’ take a left turn and follow this lane for 1.5 km. The road drops into the wooded valley, pass over the stream bridge and the parking area should be obvious some 20 m on the left. If coming southbound into Deri village, use common sense or go over the bridge buy some chips, turn around and follow the instructions above.
THE ROUTES
Left Wall
This 9 m high wall is best not reinstated in the future.
1. Ace In The Hole E1,5b Fr5+
R.Thomas, G.Gibson 08.10.1994
2. Two Of A Kind Fr7a+
G.Gibson 04.09.1994
3. Mine’s A Pair Fr6b+
G.Gibson 08.10.1994
4. Joker In The Pack Fr6c
R.Thomas, G.Gibson 04.09.1994
5. House Of Cards Fr7a *
G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.09.1994
Right Wall
A steep, shady and high quality wall between 14 and 20 m height.
6. Kicking Ass And Taking Names Fr7a **
The big central arete on its right throughout.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis, T.Foster, P.Harding 27.03.1989
7. Chattery Teeth Fr7a+ ***
The best route at the crag, which follows the wall right of Kicking Ass And Taking Names past a couple of massive rockovers. Move left at the top to the BB of the arete.
G.Gibson, R.Thomas 08.10.1994
8. Olympic Doctor Fr7a+ *
A hard start and a desperate finish.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1993
9. Deri Made Fr6c **
Start up the pod-cum-crack and move out onto the wall following the BRs to the break (watch out for loose shale here). From the break continue up a crack to final hard move for the chain. BB.
R.Thomas, G.Gibson 01.09.1994
10. Steroid John Fr6c+ *
The wall to the right with a hard start is another Deri pumper.
P.Lewis, A.Sharp 00.00.1993
11. Coffee Shop Fr7a
More of the same to the right, but with blind moves to finish.
G.Gibson 01.09.1994
12. Full Dog Fr7b *
At the top of the banking is a corner and a prominent blunt arete. Climb the arete direct, with a huge span at 8m, which can be a bit of a stopper.
G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.09.1994
13. Menage A Chien Fr7b *
The original version of Full Dog. Start up Mister Foothold to a square overlap, then make a hard move along a thin horizontal slot to gain the arete of Full Dog.
M.Crocker, R.Thomas 13.05.1989
14. Mister Foothold Fr7a **
Right of the arete, below an obvious coal slot is a faint square-cut groove. Climb this to get the coal slot, move out of this (crux), then move up the pumpy headwall on hidden jugs.
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1993
15. Troilism Trouble E2,5c
The jam crack to the right. Trad, but has a BB.
R.Thomas, M.Crocker 13.05.1989
