Darren, The
From SWMC Guidebook
GR 070 913
Contents |
BOLTING POLICY
New sports routes allowed.
PREAMBLE
An utterly transformed venue since the bolting up of Terminal Overhanging Wall, which gives some superb routes on very steep rock. The quarry contains two large bays split by a smaller recess. The traditional routes in the left-hand bay need a good brush. BAT wall does dry very rapidly after rain, whereas Terminal Overhanging Wall can provide shelter from heavy rain until it seeps.
ACCESS
If travelling by car, steps need to be taken to avoid travelling up the one way system in reverse. Approaching from Pontypridd town centre on the A4223, follow the road into the town centre, then follow signs to Graigwen to reach St. Catherine’s church on the right (obvious). Turn right immediately in front of the church and follow the road over a metal bridge. Turn right, then left, signposted White Rock Estate to reach Griagwen place, take the next right and proceed up the hill to White Rock Close.
If on foot, from Pontypridd station, turn left and proceed up to the roundabout. Turn right under the bridge then take the exit up the hill more or less to the top, where it is possible to turn into White Rock Close.
In both cases, take the first road left, and the first left again, then follow the track into the woods between the bungalow and the house about 200m down the road on its left-hand side. Go through the gate, turn right, and follow the higher track into the quarry in about 300m.
DESCENTS
Most routes have their own lower offs, one or two don't but these are obvious from the ground.
THE ROUTES
Left Hand Bay
1. Striking Twelve - Fr.6c *
The steep wall on the left immediately upon entering the quarry, via a huge pocket. BB.
2. Midnight Express - E2,5b
Unjustifiable. The gnarly offwidth to the right, gained by an initial move up the corner.
3. New Sensations - HVS,4c
The large corner is not only rancid, but as filthy as P**rh*wceib*r.
4. Return Of The Dodo - E1,5b
The crack between New Sensations and My New House.
5. My New House - Fr.6b+
The slab to the right is better with pre-placed Q-draws, BB.
6. Uphill Walker - VS,4b
The first crack on the right-hand wall of the bay.
7. Sheik Yerbouti - E1,5b
The crack and overhang immediately to the right.
8. Trillian Crack - HVS,5a
The next crack.
9. Behind The Bikesheds - E3,5c
Bold. The wall to the right. Could do with bolting up.
Middle Alcove
1. The Short Sharp Manic Depressive - Fr6c
The cleaned arete on the left side of the alcove. BB.
2. Lotta Bottle - E2,6a
The thin crack to the right is gained from the left. A direct start is available at the same grade, but seems easier.
3. Smack - Fr.6c *
The prominent overhanging arete to the right. Excellent moves, BB.
4. Hear No Evil, See No Evil - VS,4c
The big crack in the back of the alcove.
5. Reach For The Sky - E2,5b
Follow the flake to the right, until it is possible to swing right onto the bulging slab (small Friend useful). From the top of the slab, PR, follow the short finishing flake on the right.
There is a boulder problem traverse round the bay at 5b.
Terminal Overhang Wall
This is the left-hand wall of the bay. Previously akin to overhanging Weetabix, the wall has been well trundled and bolted to give a good quality venue.
- Arizona Stan - Fr. 7a+ *
Climb the wall right of the arete via a huge reach off an undercut pocket. Swing onto the arete and rock left to a single old BB. A little redundant since the advent of Capstan.
- Capstan - Fr. 7b **
Stunning! As for Arizona Stan, but instead of swinging onto the arete, carry on up the bulging right-hand side to a BB.
- Basildon Slapper - Fr. 7a+ *
Start at a large pocket under the semi-detached shield of rock. Follow the left edge of this shield to a series of overlapping roofs. Directly above the last bolt is a sneaky knee bar and stretch to reach the lower off. The first bolt appears unsafe therefore, no hanger.
- Alive And Kicking - E5,6a
Follow the right hand side of the semi-detached shield. Move diagonally up and right (BR), to gain a jam crack. Climb this to enter a niche. Gain a jam crack, pull over the roof and step left to the BB of Basildon Slapper.
- Round Are Way - Fr. 7a+
Start just left of a prominent crack in the middle of the lower wall, below a square-cut groove. Make a very tricky entry into the groove and follow steep ground directly to a BB.
- Rise - Fr. 7b *
Start up the conglomerate looking lay-away edge and cracks in the centre of the wall. Climb awkwardly past a niche to a wobbly undercuts and a large side pull up and right at two-thirds height. Make a monster lurch up the wall to sustained fingery climbing up the headwall. BB shared with The Unplugged.
- Sharpy Unplugged - Fr. 7b+ ***
Brilliant climbing up the wall to the right of Rise. BB.
- Enter The Darren - Fr. 6c+
Right again is a short but difficult slab and arete. Climb this to the overhanging crack. Passing through the crack, there are two difficult but similar roofs, separated by a good rest. The top is a little run out but a friend 1 / med to large nuts (or a long sling from the L.O. on the red-point attempt) may ease any apprehensions.
Dave Shearer on Enter The Darren Fr. 6c+. Photo: Alan Rosier
Now there are some training routes.
- Night Train - Fr. 7a+ *
Start up Arizona Stan and traverse right along the break to reach and finish up Sharpy Unplugged.
- Niart Thgin - Fr. 7a+ *
A counter-traverse. natS anozirA pu hsinif dna deggulpnU yprahS pu tratS. This is not the proper name by the way.
- Kosovo - Fr. 7a
Start up Rise to Finish up Arisona Stan
- Round the Other Way - Fr. 7a **
Start up rise and finish up Round Are Way.
B.A.T. Wall
The right-hand wall of the main bay. The trad routes finish by abseiling from trees near the top.
- Autumn Leaves - E3,6a
Just right of the corner is a small roof. Surmount this and follow a crack PRs. From this either step left to finish up a blunt rib, or gain a tree on the left and abseil. Ivy covered.
- Gutted - Fr. 6b *
The slab right of Autumn Leaves has a hard start. BB shared with Sorry Morry Lorry.
- Sorry Lorry Morry - Fr. 6a+ **
The prominent groove to the right of Gutted, pulling straight through the overlap to gain a thin crack to finish. BB.
- La Grande Crise - E2,5b
As for Sorry Lorry Morry, but pull out right at the strip roof, surmount it, then step back left. No longer worthwhile, but was the original (and unbolted) route up the wall, with PRs.
- Juvenile Justice - Fr. 7a+ *
The narrow slab to the right of Sorry Lorry Morry is accessed directly. . Pull onto the slab with some difficulty and climb its centre via tiny pockets. BB.
- Alfred’s Variation - VS,4c *
As for Boulevard De Alfred Turner (1926) to the tree. Step left to finish up the left-hand narrow crack, which is slightly loose.
- Boulevard De Alfred Turner (1926) - VS,4b **
The central groove of the wall with the carved inscription at its base. From the tree at the top of the groove, move right to gain the right-hand thin crack. Finish up this. Possibly the best route on Sandstone at this grade.
- Andrew The Zebra - E2 5c / Fr. 6a+
Just right again is a thin crack splitting the leaning wall. Gain this via a bold heelhook and follow it direct to the ledge, finishing at a tree L.O. or direct up the loose wall.
Llio Elgar on the awkward starting groove of Sorry Morry Lorry - Calling Card - E4,6b *
The groove to the right is deceptively hard. From the ledge, finish up a thin crack or lower off shared with Stow Crack.
- Stow Crack - HVS,5b
The large layback flake. BB.
- Shaken Not Stirred - Fr. 6c *
The steep wall to the right. BB.
- Madame X - Fr. 7a *
The short hanging arete to the right. Easy when you know how. BB.
- Antelope Migration HVS,4c
The (rather pointless) girdle of B.A.T wall. Start up the groove right of Madame X and wander along the big terrace, until a flake crack is reached. Climb this to some ledges and traverse left across to a tree. From here step left and climb a crack to a hole. Gain another tree over to the left and finish up the groove above.
FIRST ASCENTS
LEFT HAND BAY
1. A.Sharp, P.Harding, T.Foster 23.04.1989
2. G.Lewis, T.Penning 00.00.1980
3. T.Penning, J.Harwood 04.05.1982
4. M.Richards, J.Harwood 00.05.1997
5. G.Ashmore, R.Lawrence 02.05.1992
6. T.Penning, G.Lewis 00.00.1980
7. A.Sharp, P.Harding, T.Foster 23.04.1989
8. H.Griffiths, G.Lewis, C.Heard 00.00.1980
9. T.Foster 23.04.1989
MIDDLE ALCOVE
1. A.Sharp Pre-1994
2. A.Sharp 00.00.1983
P.Lewis – Direct 09.06.1990
3. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 24.06.1989
4. G.Lewis, S.Mundy, J.Card 00.00.1980
5. C.Heard, G.Lewis 00.00.1980
TERMINAL OVERHANG WALL
1. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 09.06.1990
2. A.Sharp 00.00.1997
3. A.Sharp, etc. 00.05.1997
4. T.Penning, J.Harwood 21.06.1989
5. T.Penning, J.Harwood 21.06.1989
6. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 08.05.1997
7. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1990
8. A.Sharp 10.05.1997
9. P.Lewis, A.Sharp 24.06.1989
10. M.Richards 00.00.1997
11. M.Richards 00.00.1999
B.A.T. WALL
1. T.Penning, J.Harwood 12.06.1990
2. A.Sharp 00.00.1999
3. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 08.01.1989
4. G.Lewis, M.Harber, L.Foulkes, S.Blackman 00.00.1982
5. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 07.01.1989
6. T.Penning, P.Cresswell 00.00.1981
7. G.Lewis, H.Griffiths 00.00.1981
8. G.Lewis, C.Heard, S.Robinson 00.00.1981
9. T.Penning, J.Harwood, P.Lewis, A.Sharp 12.06.1990
10. G.Lewis, C.Heard 00.00.1980
11. A.Sharp, J.Harwood, P.Lewis 15.01.1989
12. A.Sharp, J.Harwood, P.Lewis 15.01.1989
13. T.Penning, G.Lewis 00.00.1981
