Cwmcarn
From SWMC Guidebook
GR221940
PREAMBLE
A secluded south facing crag in a pleasant woodland setting.
However, the routes need cleaning and the old single lower off bolts and tat definitely need replacement.
ACCESS
From J28 of the M4, follow (Forest Drive signposts) the A467 to a roundabout where the A4048 carries on to Wattsville (Bumpsville) and the A467 swings right to Brynmawr. Follow the A467 to the next roundabout and take the exit right.
Take the first left, Newport Road, turning to Cwmcarn. Take the 4th right turn into Park Street and turn immediately left into a back street and a parking spot. Follow a lane up between some tin garages to a path trending uphill steeply to the left, which leads to the crag.
THE ROUTES
1. Where There’s A Killer - E3,5c
A serious route. Take the first arete left of the words ‘Killer Wall’. Go up a short rib to a ledge and continue up the right-hand side of the main arete to pull on a sapling and gain a small ledge. Continue until it is possible to move left into a corner to finish. 18m
M.Crocker 27.12.1990
An obvious central pillar contains the following two routes.
2. Face The Rap - E2,5c
More of the same, but slightly better. Climb the left-hand arete, PR, studiously avoiding the pillar on the right. 18m
M.Crocker 27.12.1990
3. Rap Crap - E3,5c
Start in the centre of the face at the initials ‘MC’. Clamber up ledges to gain some cracks which are followed to a ledge and a long span up the final headwall. 18m
M.Crocker 27.12.1990
4. Squeaking Bats - E1,5b
To the right is small steep red wall. Gain the ledge at 5m via the short arete at the left hand end. Follow the slim corner to a BB. 11m
M.Crocker 27.12.1990
5. Red With Rage - E3,5c
Climb the wall right of Squeaking Bats past two horizontal slots to reach a long layback edge. Follow this until jugs lead to a BB. Using the large ledge on the right is strictly for cheats and will result in exile to Penrhiwceiber. 11m
M.Crocker 27.12.1990
