Cefn Coed
From SWMC Guidebook
Between Main Wall West and the Bridge Cliff there are more than 80 routes at this flat bottomed and sheltered quarry.
The image below shows (I think) the Main Wall West - just right of the descent gully.
I think the route 'Lyre' HVS 5a goes up the corner right of the ivy and skirts the overhang above on its right.
CEFN COED GR034080 to 038085 By Chris Shorrock BOLTING POLICY: Bridge Cliff - Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed. Rest of Crag – no bolting. PREAMBLE The Crag is carboniferous limestone that has been extensively quarried. Over recent times the cliff has started to become very vegetated. This has meant that many routes from previous generations are currently underground. Some should stay that way, but others would benefit from a clean. Occasionally, dedicated local climbers clean up a batch of routes and routes such as Bifid - although not currently clean - are surprisingly good. ACCESS The cliff lies just off the A465 ‘Heads of the Valleys Road’ at Cefn Coed-Y-Cymmer, which is 1½ miles north of Merthyr Tydfil. Park in the lay-by on the left (driving downhill) side of the road, just before the Cefn Coed turn-off. From the layby cross the road, step over a crash barrier and follow the fence rightward for 50m to a gap at a trench and an obvious descent path (Central Descent). DESCENTS: Either by the approach gullies or by abseil. THE ROUTES Far East Wall This is situated about 200m left (facing in) of the Central Descent. It is heavily vegetated. At the far left is a wall split by two chimneys. 1. Rosie 33m VS4b Climb a broken corner left of the left-hand chimney to a tree. Follow a scoop and groove, then finish up left. J.Kerry, A.Randall 00.00.1970 2. Happiness is Clog Shaped 33m HVS,5a As for Rosie, but move right into a finishing chimney. W.Hughes, I.Jones 00.00.1970 3. Jelly Baby Lay By 33m VS The right-hand chimney gained from the right. W.Hughes, I.Jones 00.00.1970 East Amphitheatre The next climb starts about 50m left of the Central Descent and 50m right of a grassy slope. 4. Styx 11m HVS An indefinite groove/crack on the left-hand buttress. Unknown Pre-1973 5. Groper 12m VS The prominent crack/chimney to the right of Styx. Unknown Pre-1973 6. Trundle 15m S The prominent grooves on the nose of the buttress right of Groper. Unknown Pre-1973 288 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Limestone Cefn Coed 7. Girdle Of East Amphitheatre 61m VS A left to right traverse starting up Trundle and finishing somewhere round the remains of Lumberjack. Unknown Pre-1973 The crag now starts to turn into an amphitheatre. Ben Hur might like it, but you won’t. 8. Arthur Castle 19m HVS The overhanging crack at the left end of the amphitheatre. Unknown Pre-1973 9. Viking 27m VS The cracks 1m right of Arthur Castle. P.Watkin, P.Thomas 00.00.1969 10. Odin 32m HS To the right of Odin is a prominent corner. Climb the left arete. P.Watkin, P.Thomas 00.00.1969 Right of Odin is a cave at ground level. 11. The Blue Tailed Fly 33m HVS,4c Climb a groove 3m left of the cave. Keep moving up and left to finish up second groove. J.Kerry, P.Watkin 00.00.1969 12. The Owl 33m VS,4c Climb the overlap just left of the cave and finish up grooves above. C.Horsfield, J.Kerry, P.Thomas 00.00.1970 13. Gold Block 35m HVS,5a Start right of the cave at a corner and climb to a detached block in the overhang. Once over the overhang wander up to a v-chimney. Finish rightwards from the chimney. P.Watkin, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970 FFA S.Lewis, J.Harwood 13.05.1980 To the right, the two routes Gold Block (P.Watkins, C.Jones 1970) and Lumberjack (Unkown 1970) have sensibly fallen down. At the right side of the amphitheatre is a corner crack. 14. Sweet Briar 35m HS Climb the corner crack, passing overhangs on their right. Wander vaguely up the walls above to finish. Unknown Pre-1973 15. Lumberjack 35m VS The original route has collapsed. It is not known if the line has been re-climbed. Climb the remains of the righthand of three corner grooves right of Sweet Briar. Wander up grooves to eventually reach a large grassy bay, then finish up the rib on the right. Unknown Pre-1970 Main Wall East To the right of the East Amphitheatre is Main Wall East. This runs from a prominent hole to the Central Way Down. 16. Manikin 35m VS Climb a mossy corner right of the hole to a ledge, up a groove to overhangs, then left to a tree. Climb a smooth groove and gain a crack to finish. Unknown Pre-1973 Gower & SE Wales Limestone Gower 289 Cefn Coed 17. Squirrel 35m VS The groove 5m right of Manikin. Unknown Pre-1973 18. Unter Den Linden 35m VS A line joining the first tree of Squirrel to Champs Elysees. Unknown Pre-1973 19. Champs Elysees 30m HVS,5a A series of walls and grooves 8m right of the prominent hole. J.Kerry, W.Hughes 00.00.1970 20. Hari Kiri 30m VS 7m right of Champs Elysees is a shallow groove and chimney. Climb this until it is possible to walk off. Unknown Pre-1973 21. Square Cut 35m VS Climb the prominent right-facing corner 3m right of Hari Kari, exiting left. Move right and follow an overhanging crack and groove to finish. P.Watkin, P.Thomas 00.00.1970 22. Godiva Groove 35m HS Start 3m right of Square Cut at a groove which is overhung at its base and climb up to a tree. Escape diagonally right across grass to a corner and chimney. P.Thomas, P.Watkin 1970 23. Spade 36m VS Start at an obvious corner 5m right of Godiva Groove. Climb a series of aretes and grooves to a chimney and the top. Unknown Pre-1973 To the right of Spade is an obvious pond, fed by the waterfall of Washing Machine Wall. 24. J.C.B 33m VS The shallow corner left of the waterfall. Unknown Pre-1973 25. Washing Machine Wall 30m HS,4b The obvious waterfall above the pond is climbed to overhangs. Avoid these on the left. W.Hughes, G.Stainforth 00.00.1970 26. Beginners Rib 30m M The easy angled buttress right of Washing Machine Wall. Unknown Pre-1973 27. Cleavage 24m S The obvious chimney 15m right of the pond, gained from the left. UWIST MC 00.00.1970 28. Gethsemane 30m D The monsterous groove just right of Cleavage. Unknown Pre-1973 290 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Limestone Cefn Coed 29. Excavation 27m S The slab right of Cleavage. W.Hughes, D.Ellis 00.00.1970 30. Saes 27m VS Gain and climb the v-chimney right of Excavation. Unknown Pre-1973 31. Sir Mortimer Wheeler 29m S Climb a groove and crack 3m right of Saes. D.Elias, etc. 00.00.1970 32. Draught Porridge 30m VD The indefinite buttress, groove and corner 3m right of Sir Mortimer Wheeler. Unknown Pre-1973 33. The Flea 30m HS An indefinite buttress, groove and overhang right of Draught Porridge. Unknown Pre-1973 34. The Fly 30m HVS,5a Start about 18m left of the Central Descent. Gain a crack in the overhanging wall down and left of a square-cut chimney and follow it to a grass terrace. Finish up the wall above. P.Watkin, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970 35. The Flue 30m E1,5b Climb the wall right of The Fly, moving right to a cave. Move left to a chimney, corner and overhang. Step out left and finish directly. C.Horsfield, P.Watkin 00.00.1970 FFA S.Lewis, J.Harwood 17.08.1978 36. Lily The Pink 30m VS,5a Start right of The Flue and gain a grassy groove and crack. Exit right onto a wall which is followed to the top. C.Horsfield, W.Hughes 00.00.1970 37. Llen 30m HVS,5a Follow an obvious crack in the buttress right of Lily The Pink. Wander up and climb the wall between trees to a small ledge. Swing left to gain the crack and follow it to the top. Supersedes Ground Hog (S Unknown 1970). J.Harwood 23.04.1980 38. M.M. 27m S The wall right of Llen. Unknown Pre-1973 39. Root 15m VD The first corner left of the Central Descent. Unknown Pre-1973 Main Wall West To the right of Root the Central Descent is flanked by two prominent buttresses separated by a steep grass gully. To the right of this is the start of Main Wall West. Further right is a fence and a prominent pine tree overhanging the top of the cliff, below which is the obvious line of Bifid. Gower & SE Wales Limestone Gower 291 Cefn Coed 40. Diane 21m VS,4c Climb a steep crack in the right-hand buttress and wander off up and left to finish. M.Yoyce 00.00.1971 41. Aphrodite 21m HVS,5a The wall right of Diane. J.Kerry, W.Hughes 00.00.1970 42. Icarus Pillar 15m VS,4c Start right of Aphrodite. Climb up to a large bay, then move rightward up the overhanging crack to the top. J.Kerry, W.Hughes 00.00.1970 43. Finale 33m VS,4b Start right of Icarus Pillar at an indefinite groove. Climb up to a cave, a large ledge and slabs, then step right onto the wall and finish over the overhang. C.Horsfield, E.Tebbert 00.00.1971 44. Mr.Noah 30m S Start right of Finale and cut straight through it to a corner crack. Unknown Pre-1973 45. Strand 27m VD Climb a short v-groove to the right of Mr. Noah to gain a grass ledge. Climb the obvious corner/crack on the right to the top of a pinnacle. Unknown Pre-1973 46. Embassy 30m VS A wandering wall to the right of Strand. Unknown Pre-1973 47. Hamlet 30m VS Start right of Embassy and follow two corners. Finish up a groove and steep wall past a spur of rock on the left. Unknown Pre-1973 48. Condor 30m VS 1pt The corner systems right of Hamlet, PA, exiting at will. Unknown Pre-1973 49. Venus 30m VS,4c Climb a prominent open corner right of Condor and beneath a massive overhanging block. Avoid this on its left, then climb a further corner and finish up further blocks. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1971 50. Lyre 30m HVS,5a As for Venus but avoid the block on its right and finish up and right. C.Horsfield, J.Kerry 00.00.1970 51. Queen Bee 30m HVS,5a Right of Lyre is a large triangular overhang. Gain this from a crack, then wander up the walls above. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970 52. Lute 30m D From the start of Queen Bee follow a line of easy ledges up right to a wide crack. Step right onto a ledge then left onto a chockstone and finish up a crack. D.Ellis, P.Watkin 00.00.1969 292 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Limestone Cefn Coed 53. Land Waster 36m VS,4b A right to left traverse linking up the top of Lute to the top of Finale. T.Penning, P.Cresswell 29.09.1980 54. Fred Carno 24m HVS,5a Start 4m right of Lute. Climb short walls and short grooves to the final overhang. Move right then escape left. J.Harwood, J.Williams, C.Horsfield 28.06.1978 To the right of Fred Carno is a cave. 55. Hells Teeth 24m HVS,5a Climb a short corner just left of the cave, then step left to ledges. Follow a shallow corner for 2m, then step left onto an overhung slab. Climb the subsequent overhang on its right. J.Kerry, P.Thomas 00.00.1970 56. Knuckleduster 24m HVS,5b Climb to the first ledge on Hells Teeth then diagonally right past a tree to a cave. Climb an overhanging crack and chimney above to a roof, then move back into the crack and over a roof. Finish up and left. C.Horsfield, J.Harwood, J.Williams 05.07.1978 57. The Fang 26m E2,5b Start below and right of the cave. Climb a wall to the cave, traverse right and move onto the wall just right of a downward pointing spike. Climb a thin crack then a small corner to another horizontal crack. Traverse right to the arete and finish via a sloping ledge. J.Kerry 00.00.1970 P.Littlejohn - Direct 00.00.1978 58. Spelaean 30m VS,4b * To the right of The Fang is a prominent bottomless corner. Gain this from the left, climb it to the overhang and exit leftward to a steep wall and the top. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1978 59. What A Waste 30m HVS,5b Climb the wall 3m right of Spelaean to an overhang. Gain a small corner up and left. Follow this until it is possible to move right to a ledge. Continue up a shallow corner and wall to the top. S.Lewis, J.Harwood 17.08.1978 60. Soup Dragon 29m VS,4b Climb the wall 8m right of Spelaean, then move up right into a crack/chimney. Finish up a short wall. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970 61. The Music Tree 27m VS,4b The short wall, corner and chimney just right of Soup Dragon. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970 62. The Iron Chicken 29m HVS,4c * The obvious vegetated crack right of Music Tree. Finish leftward. C.Horsfield, J.Kerry 00.00.1970 J.Harwood, C.Horsfield - Direct 13.08.1975 63. The Throwback 24m E2,5c * Start just right of The Iron Chicken at an obvious corner capped by a roof. Climb direct to the roof, over it on the left, then step right to finish. P.Stott, R.Thomas 00.00.1980 Gower & SE Wales Limestone Gower 293 Cefn Coed 64. The Sharp Alternative 24m E3,5c The crackline right of The Throwback. M.Learoyd, P.Ingram 00.00.1985 To the right, just by the fence, is the obvious groove of Bifid. The buttresses here are cleaner and well defined. Towards the left end of the buttress is a prominent crack. 65. Walter Mitty 32m HS,4a * Gain the prominent crack from the right. Climb it, then step left then up and right to gain a ledge. Finish up the steep wall to a tree. C.Horsfield, J.Kerry 00.00.1970 66. Linda’s Wall 33m E4,6a * Start as for Walter Mitty. Traverse right onto the wall to a ledge then climb up to the long shallow scoop, TR. Move up right to gain the horizontal break and traverse left to a PR below the overhang. Now sprint for the ledge 3m above the overhang and then the top. Well done. T.Penning, P.Cresswell 24.08.1980 FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis 06.06.1982 67. Alex In Wonderland 30m E4,6a * A difficult route taking the grooves in the right side of Linda’s Wall. Climb Bifid until halfway up the chimney. Traverse left to the grooves and climb them, PR, to the break, shake out, rev up and pull over the roof via a thin crack to finish up the wider crack above. T.Penning, C.Court 07.06.1984 68. Bifid 32m E1,5b ** A classic taking the big chimney just by the fence. Climb the chimney to its top and climb the shallow groove, PR, above to a small tree. Traverse left to a crack and up this leftward to a ledge. Traverse right to the top. C.Horsfield, P.Thomas A0 00.00.1970 FFA Unknown Pre-1973 69. The Great Arete 30m E4,5c * Climb Bifid for 3m, then move rightwards to the right-hand arete of Bifid’s chimney. Continue to the break, have a shake, and move left to finish up the buttress. T.Penning, C.Court 05.06.1984 70. The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance 33m HVS,5b Climb Bifid for 3m then move right onto the left edge of The Great Wall. Move up rightward to reach a crack which is climbed to an overhang. Finish as for The Great Wall. T.Penning, P.Cresswell 04.11.1979 71. The Great Wall 32m HVS,5b * A good route. Start at the right side of the wall beneath and right of a crackline. Climb the wall and step left to the crack, which is followed to the overhang. Traverse left for 4m to an overhanging crack and climb to a ledge. Continue over the overhang on the right and finish rightward. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970 72. Age of Reason 24m E1,5b Start as for The Great Wall. Climb the narrow slab right of the crack of The Great Wall using the arete. Pull over the small overhang and climb the wall above, TRs. Move left around the bulge to exit right at the second overhang. Side runners protect. R.Davies, O.Jones 13.06.1988 294 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Limestone Cefn Coed 73. The Fugitive 24m VS,4b This takes the crack and chimney above and right of The Great Wall. P.Thomas, J.Kerry 00.00.1970 74. Sword of Damocles 24m HVS,5a * The sword is long gone! Start at a shallow corner just right of The Fugitive. Climb to a small overhang, then move up and right into a niche and roof. Move left and finish up right. C.Jones, D.Parsons 00.00.1970 J.Harwood, C.Horsfield ALCH 04.05.1977 The West Amphitheatre This is the amphitheatre immediately right of Great Wall. 75. Upidee 27m HVS,5a Start beneath a huge detached block at 15m. Climb up, then traverse left to a shallow overgrown groove, PR. Move onto a small ledge and up to the detached block, which is climbed via a v-chimney to a flat ledge. Climb up, then traverse left across the overhanging wall to finish direct. C.Horsfield, J.Kerry 00.00.1970 76. Apollo 13 26m HVS,5a * Climb a shattered flake 2m right of Upidee, then move right into the corner at the prominent ledge, PR. Climb the corner for 2m then step left to climb cracks in the wall to reach the top of the block on Upidee. Move right and climb the grooves to the top. C.Horsfield, J.Kerry 00.00.1970 77. Agricola 24m E1,5c * As for Apollo 13 to the PR. Move up to another PR, then traverse right under the overhang to the arete and a sloping ledge. Climb a crack, then go up diagonally right to a ledge and a small tree. Move slightly left and climb the overhang directly to the top. J.Kerry, W.Hughes 00.00.1970 FFA J.Harwood, J.Matthews 19.05.1976 78. Three Nuns 21m VS,4c The shallow corner 5m right of Agricola is climbed using the right wall. At the overlap traverse right and swing up the wall to a stance. C.Jones, D.Parsons 00.00.1970 79. Peanut Butter 19m VS,4b The s-shaped crack 3m right of Three Nuns. W.Hughes, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970 80. The Pratter 19m VS,4b The groove near some blocks about 15m right of Peanut Butter. Unknown Pre-1973 There are two girdles of the main cliff. 81. Knacker’s Yard 59m HVS,4c,4b,5a,4a 1. 18m Follow Queen Bee to the top of the prow, step down and hand traverse right past a bush and a borehole to the gully of Lute. Step right to a belay. 2. 7m Step right to a sloping ledge leading to short overhanging corners. Climb these to belay above the overhang on Hells Teeth. Gower & SE Wales Limestone Gower 295 Cefn Coed 3. 24m Step down and traverse right on undercuts to a crack in the centre of the shattered buttress. Descend for 2m and move right across large blocks to reach the hand traverse of Spelaean. Continue rightward to a belay on Soup Dragon. 4. 10m Step right and finish up Music Tree. C.Horsfield, J.Williams AL, J.Harwood 05.07.1978 82. The Great Boer Trek 77m E3,4b,5b,5b,4c A full expedition requiring a strong and competent party. 1. 6m Climb Three Nuns to a ledge and belay. 2. 22m Traverse left across the wall to a crack, move down under the overhang and traverse to the block on Upidee. Continue this traverse to a stance in a chimney. 3. 18m Hand traverse The Great Wall and move around the corner to the top of the chimney on Bifid. Follow the traverse line to the top of Walter Mitty. 4. 30m Step down and left to follow grass ledges to the foot of the final corner of Spelaean and finish up this. J.Kerry, W.Hughes 00.00.1970 The Bridge Cliff At the right-hand side of the amphitheatre is a prominent rectangular pillar. From the right arete of this, a long low wall runs under the bridge, providing some all-weather climbing. Unfortunately the routes do get dirty, so a brush up is advisable. 83. Parsons Pleasure 12m D The obvious corner left of the left arete of the rectangular buttress. D.Parsons Pre-1973 84. Here And There 9m E1,5b The centre of the wall right of Parsons Pleasure, starting from the right. A direct start is 6a. G.Gibson solo 17.05.1985 85. Arris 9m E4,6a The left arete of the rectangular buttress. A.Sharp 00.00.1982 86. John Henry 12m A2 The thin crack in the centre of the buttress. P.Thomas, D.Davies 00.00.1970 87. ’Ere Lies Henry 12m E5,6c * Partially frees John Henry. Make a couple of moves up the thin crack, then move right to climb the wall right of the crack with some help from the arete. Step left near the top to gain the easy finishing crack of John Henry. P.Littlejohn, A.Sharp, J.Harwood 30.04.1985 88. Belly Ache 11m E4,5c The right arete of ‘Ere Lies Henry is climbed in its entirity. G.Gibson solo 17.05.1985 89. Tough Of The Track 12m E4,6a * Climb the wall immediately right of Belly Ache (missing PR), to finish just left of an overlap. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984 90. Grains From The Veins 12m E4,6c Climb the wall 2m right of Tough Of The Track, finishing just right of the overlap. A.Sharp 00.00.1984 296 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Limestone Cefn Coed 91. Death Of A Salesman 12m E3,5c * Start at a short groove just right of Grains From The Veins. A thought provoking start, PR, gives way to thin moves up and left to a good hold. Move right to gain a dusty finish. T.Penning, J.Harwood 24.04.1984 92. Pride and Prejudice 12m E3,6a * Start as for Death Of A Salesman. Climb up for 3m then move right to good holds. Move up to an overlap, then finish up the steep wall. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985 93. Trimmet 12m E3,6a * Start 4m right of Pride And Prejudice, just right of a tree stump and climb the disjointed cracks with difficulty. D.Parsons, P.Wood A100.00.1969 FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis 22.07.1978 94. Daniel Baboon 12m E3,6b Somehow gain and climb the short groove right of Trimmet. Follow it into Trimmet to finish. M.Danford, D.Parsons - Ping A1 00.00.1970 FFA A.Sharp, T.Penning 03.06.1984 95. Laughing Carrot 12m E3,6b Gain the bottomless groove/flake right of Daniel Baboon. Climb the flake and finish up the difficult wall. A.Sharp, R.Smith 00.00.1984 96. Mad Dogs 12m E4,6b Desperate climbing up the crack line right of Daniel Baboon, then a sprint up the wall to the top. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 12.07.1983 97. Santa Anna 12m E1,5b Start just right of Mad Dogs. Climb the groove and wall above two iron spikes. T.James, W.Williamson, M.Danford A1 00.00.1970 FFA C.Court, T.Penning 07.06.1984 98. Bewitched (Davy Pocket) 12m E2,5c Climb up the wall just right of Santa Anna. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984 99. Rock Lobster 12m E4,6a Start just right of Bewitched. Climb direct to a large pocket at 7m, pull over the bulge, PR and finish up Gold Monkey. O.Jones, R.Davies 15.05.1987 100.Gold Monkey 12m E2,5b This climbs the obvious square groove above two more iron spikes. T.Penning, A.Sharp 07.06.1984 101.Singapore Girl 12m E5,6c A finger stretcher. Start just right of Gold Monkey beneath a small overhang. Climb over it PR (missing), then follow some thin layaways to the left of two spikes. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1984 102.The Brood 12m E3,6b 1pt Start below the right-hand spike. Climb to a PA (mssing) and continue to the two spike runners. C.Heald, G.Stainforth - Gunagimi A100.00.1970 A.Sharp, P.Lewis 1pt 00.00.1984 Gower & SE Wales Limestone Gower 297 Cefn Coed 103.Goblin Groove 9m HVS,5a Climb the clean corner just right of The Brood. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970 104.Sup 13 9m VD The wide crack just right of Goblin Groove. Unknown 00.00.0000 105.S’wet 9m S The cracked corner just right of Sup 13. Unknown 00.00.0000 106.Pong 7m VS,4b The thin continuous crack 2m right of S’wet. Unknown 1973-1978 107.Tree Route 12m VD From 2m right of Pong, make an ascending traverse rightwards, then finish directly up from a tree. Unknown Pre-1973 108.Fat 9m S Gain the shelf above the tree on Tree Route from down and to the right. Finish as for Tree Route. Unknown Pre-1973 109.Celia 9m A1 Peg straight up the steep wall 3m right of Fat. Unknown Pre-1973 110. Nameless Groove 12m S The groove directly behind a tree, 5m right of Celia. Unknown Pre-1973 111. Puff 9m HS,4b The thin crack just right of Nameless Groove. Unknown Pre-1973 112. Eliminate 11m HVS,5a The thin cracks 2m right of Puff. Unknown Pre-1973 113. X-Ray 11m S The cracks 2m right of Eliminate. Unknown Pre-1973 114. Elm Tree Groove 6m D About 5m right of X-Ray is an obvious corner crack. Climb this to exit through tree roots. Unknown Pre-1973 115. Jug Wall 6m M Climb the wall just right of Elm Tree Groove on big holds. Unknown Pre-1973 116. Duck 7m VD The crack just to the right of Jug Wall. Unknown Pre-1973 298 Inland Limestone Gower & SE Wales Limestone Cefn Coed 117. Duckling 7m VS,4b The crack to the right of Duck. Finish up the slanting corner. Unknown Pre-1973 118. Plip 6m HS,4a 5m right of Duckling is a tree. Climb up by this and step right to finish up a flake. Unknown Pre-1973 119. Plop 6m HS,4a Try to avoid the tree and climb the wall 2m right of Plip. Unknown Pre-1973 120.Gog 8m HS The overgrown, messy groove 8m right of Plop. Unknown Pre-1973 121.Unfinished Symphony 7m VS,4c The crack and dirty scoop 6m right of Gog. Unknown Pre-1973 122.Wee Willie Winkie 24m E2,5c,5c A right to left traverse, superseding Jumbo The Elephant (Unknown Pre-1973). 1. 12m Climb Gold Monkey to the obvious traverse line, move left and belay on the last set of iron spikes. 2. 12m Continue along the finger traverse to Death Of A Salesman and continue around the arete to finish. T.Penning, C.Court 07.06.1984
