Blaenllechau

From SWMC Guidebook

GR004969

Contents 1 PREAMBLE 2 ACCESS 3 THE ROUTES 4 First Ascents

PREAMBLE

Clearly visible from Ferndale town,it is best to fix it's location roughly as it cannot be located visually from the road above. Despite it's previous bad reviews further inspection has revealed that once re-geared the earlier routes are very good and the crop of new ones are on excellent rock and sunny for most of the day and evening.This crag probably has the biggest crop of 4+/5's of any sandstone crag,enough to occupy a sunny summer evening.

ACCESS

From Porth in the Rhondda take the A4233 to Ferndale and follow the signs to Blaenllechau on the other side of the valley. Follow the hairpin road into the village and use the turning circle to negotiate the right very sharp bend into the minor mountain road to Penrhiwceiber/Llanwonno. Follow this road to the end of the highest terrace and park in the limited space by the 30mph sign painted in very large red letters on a very prominent portion of red tarmac at the end of the village.Walk 4 mins up the road and follow the rough path down and left at the crash barrier.It is also possible to park a small car here or one of the lower terraces if the previous spot is full.

THE ROUTES

In the left bay of the quarry is a pillar.

1. Dirtbag arete - Fr. 6b **
   The sidewall and left arete. 18m
   
   
2. Electrolux - HVS, 4c
   The central groove and wall above. 18m
   
   
3. Dicky Dyson - Fr. 5+ *
   The right arete of the groove. 18m
   
   
4. Dust Devil - Fr. 5
   The chimney/groove and right edge of wall above. 18m
   
   
5. Suction Power - Fr. 4
   The grassy uncleaned staircase leading to the tree. 18m
   
   Further right is another less distinct pillar the easy slab and a short steep wall.
   
   
6. Possessed By The Mind Of A Hoover 9m HS, 4a
   The centre of the indistinct pillar,battling through the heather to top out.
   
   Down and right is the obvious slab and an easy way to the top.
   
   
7. Raspberry Ripple - Fr. 4+
   The left edge of slab. 12m
   
   
8. Ripple slab - Fr. 3
   Obvious by name. 12m
   
   Next is the excellent short steep wall.
   
   
9. Fairy Godmother - Fr. 4+
   12m
   
   
10. Fairy's Liquid - Fr. 4+
    The wall to a shared belay on ledge. 12m
    
    The next three route top out to a substantial common belay.
    
    
11. Fairy Ring - Fr. 6b+
    12m
    
    
12. Away With The Mixer - Fr. 6b+
    The flake line in the centre. 12m
    
    
13. Away With The Fairies - Fr. 6c
    The thin crack with a harrowing final move. 12m
    
    
14. Fair Enough - Fr. 4+
    The layback crack. 12m
    
    A few metres right is the blocky arete of...
    
    
15. Hands that do dishes - Fr. 4+
    13m
    
    Right again is another good steep wall.The PLUMBERS WALL
    
    
16. Leaky Ball Cock - Fr. 5
    The left arete. 12m
    
    
17. Cock and Ball Story - Fr. 6b+
    Centre of wall. 12m
    
    
18. Plumbing the depths - Fr. 7a
    Tricky stuff. 12m
    
    

First Ascents

1. R.Thomas Eugene Jones 00.06.2011
2. S.Coles solo 08.02.1992
3. R.Thomas R.Phillips 00.06.2011
4. R.Thomas Ed Rees Nick O'Neill 00.06.2011
5. G.Ashmore 00.06.2011
6. S.Coles solo 08.02.1992
7. R.Thomas Ed Rees Nick O'Neill 00.06.2011
8. Ed Rees R Thomas N O'neill 00.06.2011
9. R.Thomas G.Ashmore 00.05.2011
10. R.Thomas G.Ashmore 00.05.2011
11. R.Thomas Nick O'Neill 00.06.2011
12. P.Lewis A.Sharpe
13. A.Sharpe P.Lewis
14. R.Thomas Ed Rees Nick O'Neill 00.06.2011
15. R.Thomas 00.06.2011
16. R.Thomas Ed Rees 00.06.2011
17. G.Ashmore R.Thomas 00.06.2011
18. G.Ashmore R.Thomas 00.06.2011