Barland Quarry
From SWMC Guidebook
GR575895
Contents |
TIDAL STATUS
Non-tidal.
BOLTING POLICY
Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.
PREAMBLE
Smooth low-angled slab. Allegedly the "most technical slabs in South Wales". Quarried limestone but mostly slate-like climbing on tiny edges. Some of the harder climbs have a preponderance of desperate smeary moves. Dries very quickly; one of the more accessible sport venues on Gower. Scope for one or two new routes.
This venue has seen a recent re-equipment on some of the routes 'vandalised' by the Site Manager's JCB. The first pitch of Don't' Jis on my Sofa is now fully equipped.
Climbs to the left of Miss You are subject to frequent rockfall.
If you want to climb the harder routes then you may need to give some of the more delicate smears a light brushing.
ACCESS
This is the quarry on the right (north) hand side of the big bend coming out of Bishopston on the B4436, immediately past the turn off to Pwll Du.
Park in Kittle either at the Beaufort Arms or in the little lay-by opposite the small grocers. If you park at the Beaufort remember to drop in for a pint afterwards. The food at the Beaufort is good too.
Be warned that you should not park in the gravel lay-by just north of the quarry. If you do so, you will alert the Site Manager whose house overlooks this spot, and who may then come down and ask you to leave. If he does, do so without a fuss. You can always come back another day.
Enter the quarry and follow the gravel track round and down to the left to reach the very obvious main slab.
DESCENTS
All routes descend by lowering off or abseil. The two long routes require more than one abseil even with a 60m rope.
THE ROUTES
After a short initial slab, a superb low angled 60m slab dominates the quarry. Some of the lowest bolt hangers on a couple of routes have been smashed off by a rogue JCB bucket. You can always climb adjacent routes first and clip the second lowest bolt on lowering off. Routes described from left to right.
1. Jap’s Eye 12m Fr6a
The first short route up the slab has a tricky finish.
2. Cheesy Flaps 13m Fr5
The line to the right of Jap’s Eye. First clip is a little high. Easy climbing to a slightly harder finish.
3. Double Dutch 15m Fr6c+
The slab to the right of Cheesy Flaps has a very hard start and a hard finish. The holes are off route!
4. Unnamed Fr6c+
A hard move up to the first hole with easier climbing at the finish.
5. Miss You 17m Fr6b+
The start of the quality climbing on the slab. A tricky move at the start, an easier middle section with some interesting moves at the last two staples.
6. Rotbeest 17m Fr7b+
The first route on the continuous area of slab has a hideous move at two-thirds height.
7. Wandelanden Tak 17m Fr7a *
The next line on the slab, starting above a pile of stones and a big stick. A technical start leads to a tricky section to gain the fifth BR, then step right from the good edge to join Geef Onze Fietsen Terug. Lower off the twin BB.
8. Geef Onze Fietsen Terug! 50m Fr6c+ **
The first long long route that swaggers up the biggest section of unbroken slabs. Take a lot of quickdraws. Start where a pile of bicycles used to be at the base of the crag (about 4m right of Wandelanden Tak) and make technical (and sometimes toe-wrecking) moves up to a BB (possible belay). Easier but enjoyable climbing leads up to the big overlap. Surmount this and continue up to the BB by the long hole at 50m. Abseil off. N.B. The second pitch needs re-quipping.
9. Stoeipoesje 18m Fr6c+ *
Marginally more run out than the other routes - the slab right of Geef Onze Fietsen Terug to a BB at18m.
10. Wij Zitten Nog In Een Sneeuwstorm 18m Fr6b+ *
The slab to the right of Stoeipoesje and left of the groove, to a scoop at 18m. Step right to the belay of the next route. Sustained at this grade with some quality moves!
11. Stinking Of Fish 18m Fr6a
The crack in the slab right of Wij Zitten Nog In Een Sneeuwstorm to join and finish up Telefunken U47. A Rock 8 protects the entry to the groove.
12. Telefunken U47 18m Fr4+
The obvious groove to a BB at 18m.
13. Don’t Jis On My Sofa 50m Fr6a+ *
As for Telefunken U47 to the BB, then continue up to a vague corner in the roof. Swing left to a good jug and finish up the slightly tricky slab above BB. Abseil off. N.B. The second pitch needs re-quipping.
14. Ik Kan Mijn Ei Niet Kwijt 18m Fr7a+
Currently lacks hangars. Totally hideous. The slab to the right of Don’t Jis On My Sofa has a hard start. If successful, continue more easily, to a totally vile series of huge rock ups on smears, stepping left to reach the BB.
First Ascents
1. R.Thomas 00.01.1998
2. R.Thomas 20.03.1999
3. G.Gibson 00.01.1998
4. G.Gibson 1998
5. G.Gibson 00.00.1998
6. G.Ashmore 25.08.1997
7. G.Ashmore 17.08.1997
8. G.Ashmore, J.Tracey 16.08.1997
9. G.Ashmore 25.08.1997
10. G.Ashmore 13.04.1998
11. R.Thomas 07.06.1998
12. R.Thomas 07.06.1998
13. R.Thomas 00.08.1998
14. G.Ashmore 14.09.1998
