Gower Access News, South East Wales Access News

Edwardsville X1: Climbing Ban

The BMC have been threatened with legal action by the owners over the use of Edwardsville X1 by climbers/general public. This crag is known by the owners as Pontygwaith Quarry.

Please give this area a wide berth. DO NOT ACCESS. DO NOT CLIMB.

The BMC are planning to meet the owners but of course the outcome of any negotiations will determine the future use of the crag as a climbing venue. We will have to wait and see.

Tirpentwys

It has been reported to me that two signs with the following have been sited at the crag:

'Private Property - Keep out - Climbing prohibited - All enquiries tel. (A number)

Trespass is a civil matter between the accused and the land owner/user.

No “Trespass” is committed by going onto property.

An offence is committed if something is placed on the property, something is removed from the property and if anyone on the property is asked to leave and does not leave immediately.

Yellow Wall bird ban lifted

The nesting restriction at Yellow Wall for 2009 has been lifted early.

Access Issue?/Vandalism problems? at Tyle-Y-Coch

I received the following info. late Sunday: “went to tyle coch today near newbridge and was surprised to find that all the 1st bolts on all of the climbs have been knocked in by a hammer or removed.”

I emailed the complainant giving a brief outline of the general nature of "permission to climb".

I added that, the problem at Tyle-Y-Coch may be an owner access issue or we may have a case of vandalism. Who knows.

Adders

Please be careful adders may bite. Adders are normally shy retiring creatures that will usually run away and avoid conflict. However particularly early in the morning during the summer they will come out into the open and bask and may be sluggish and a bit tetchy. They will only bite if handled, trodden on or otherwise molested. They are slightly venomous and people who have been bitten normally describe it as a painful bee sting. On very rare occasions the bite can be fatal so if you are bitten prompt medical attention is a sensible approach.

Deri, Llangattock, Llanbradach

Deri: Parc Cwm Daren have advised that they would like nesting restrictions observed, 1 March to 30 June. It is no longer necessary to inform them by telephone before climbing.

Llangattock: Groups should continue to use the booking system set up in 1998 and contact Crickhowell Adventure Gear on 01873 810020 to book. (New 'phone number)

Minchin Hole to Hunts Bay

A New Climbing Restriction on Gower, between Minchin Hole and Hunts Bay. A new restriction between 1 March to 15 August (nesting chough). This applies to all routes between and including Minchin Hole and Quartz Corner just east of Bacon Hole. The restriction is reviewed in May - watch out for signs on site or contact the National Trust Warden Sian Musgrave on 01792 390636, for up-to-date details. Note: there is no point in phoning before the beginning of June as it will not be known whether the birds have successfully nested before then.

Fall Bay

Just a reminder to those who know and information to those who do not, that climbing at Fall Bay and in particular at Lewes Castle can be hazardous to passing beach walkers and other climbers below, due to loose rocks. Please take extra care not to knock off loose rocks in this area.

An appeal to any climbers particularly interested in helping with the monitoring of the choughs.

There is a need for someone to help with ringing young birds. The nearest person willing to help lives in Pembroke and it would be very helpful to have someone local. Full training in handling birds will be given. Please let me know if you are interested or ring Sian at the NT office. If anyone is out climbing and spots a chough the NT or CCW would love to find out where it is seen and what colour rings it might have. Eleven of the birds have already been ringed and if you can see the rings and identify them that would be very helpful information to have.

NT / CCW / BMC Meeting

Just to keep everyone informed a twice-yearly meeting takes place between representatives from the National Trust (who own most of the climbable Gower coastline), the Countryside Commission for Wales (CCW) who have a direct legal responsibility for the flora and fauna, and the BMC, to represent the climbing interests. This small forum meets to discuss areas of particular sensitivity especially where climbing might cause a disturbance to wildlife or cause potential damage to plant-life.

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